In the course of replacing my timing belt today, I had to disconnect the suction/feeder side of the PS pump. I did not disconnect the high pressure side of the PS pump. I was able to set the PS pump aside while I swapped out the timing belt (kit with other things).

No my PS pump won't stop howling, no matter how much I adjust the tension on the belt. It's frothing at the reservoir and spilling over. Somehow I believe I have air trapped in the system.

I've lifted both wheels off the ground and went lock to lock several times, hoping the lower resistance on the system would help get air out. No luck.

It's drivable, but the PS fluid becomes aerated and spills out. To the best of my knowledge, there are no leaks on the high pressure side or rack and pinion steering setup.

What am I missing? Any tips or advice? Youtube isn't much help.

Engine off, wheels lifted. slow turns lock to lock, keeping an eye on level as it will tend to go low on one direction, and level will rise going other.

That should be all you need to do.

Operating the system with low fluid or air can damage the pump. You will know if the method I mention does not work.

I did this about 20 yrs ago, but what sigmonkey says is spot on. I had to turn lock to lock slowly about 15 to 20 times for it to work right. Check the fluid every 5 times to make sure the level is correct. It worked great when I was done. Engine off of course.

Doh! I did that but with the engine running!

I’ll try again in the morning.

IIRC, the reservoir is below the level of the pump. Remove the reservoir (don't disconnect anything) and devise a method of hanging it from under the hood so you can get as straight a path for the fluid to flow as possible. Also remove the cap to act as a vent. Then follow the procedure listed by sigmonkey.

quote:

In the course of replacing my timing belt today, I had to disconnect the suction/feeder side of the PS pump. I did not disconnect the high pressure side of the PS pump.

I hate to pile on after the ship has sailed, but that is the opposite of what you should have done. I disconnect the pressure line (two bolts), leave the reservoir connected, then position and tie off the pump out of the way. That way the fluid loss is minimal and the steering is easily filled and bled afterwards. This is from dozens of timing belt jobs on this engine.

Some power steering systems are very difficult to bleed. The worst I have run across is Subaru. If you try to fill an empty system, only the reservoir and part of the hose fill because the hose to the pump flows uphill. This starves the pump for fluid and introduces still more air. I have to use the hanging the reservoir from the hood trick to fill and bleed it. I also have a collection of old pump caps that I modified to attach a hand vacuum pump to. Nobody makes such adapters that actually work.

Well, that didn't work. With the engine off and up on jack stands, I went to lock to lock a dozen times. The return fluid to the reservoir was clean and without air bubbles. However, when I did a quick test drive. It returned to it's old habits of frothing in the reservoir.

I have a seal kit for the pump. Would a seal job do the trick? New pump? How is air getting into the system downstream of the pump (or is the pump the culprit?)?

Ugh.

One Honda Youtube video explained the same symptoms as mine.

On the supply side (where I disconnected), if the fitting isn’t perfect, it can introduce air constantly when the pump is operating.

I’m gonna recheck that connection and see if the hose and clamp are getting a good seal.

Don't know if this well help in your case. A dozen times is not usually enough. You might try starting over. Replace the O ring you disturbed with the correct new one if you have not already done so. (very important here) Hopefully you did not disconnect that old now somewhat hard hose. If so try to match hose location and clamp back up perfectly.

With the engine off and front wheels off the ground go lock to lock 30 times. Fluid should be full with the wheels straight. Start the engine run at 2000 rpm go lock to lock a 5 more times with the wheels off the ground still. Try that out.

Update.

Fixed. I decided to flush the coffee looking PS fluid. Connected the return line to drop into a suitable container, plugged off return inlet, and continually added fresh PSF.

I did 30+ lock to lock just to flush fluid. Reconnected stock setup. Still got some bubbles on the return line. Spent the next 45 minutes doing another 50-60 lock to lock. Couldn’t completely eliminate bubbles, but greatly reduced. I turned on the engine for a few minutes. Test drove. No whining. No moaning upon cornering. No frothing. Fluid level remained the same pre and post.

Very happy.