I installed a pendant light. The instructions say nothing over 9W LED. I have 10W LEDs in it. (3 bulb light.)

The warning re 9W. If I use a stronger bulb, is the danger in running a 10W at full power? For example, the light is dimmable. If I run it at half power, is that acceptable? Or is the 10W caveat engraved in stone?

Also, why the caveat? What's the danger? Wires getting hot and flipped the breaker? Wires getting hot and starting a fire?

Ok, so that's like, 4 questions.

thnx

Edited to add. They don't sell 9W LED at Lowes. They only have 8.5W and then is 10W.

Not an electrician, but. The concern is that the wires in the fixture and sometimes the fixture itself is only rated to handle so much load/so much heat. And that overloading it can potentially cause a fire. I'd be shocked if 1w made a difference, but I'll let the electricians handle the rest of it.

Of the two bulbs you listed, one meets the requirements of the fixture. Seems like a simple choice.

Not an electrician either, but:

At 9watts x 3 bulbs = 27watts, you are not going to trip 15amp breaker: 15amps x 120volts = 1,800 watts.

The danger is the fixture itself. Something, wiring or electronics or ?, within the fixture is not designed for more than 9watts individually or 27 watts in total. I don’t known if it’s a you’ll break the fixture, burn the house down, or somewhere in between danger.

Not an electrician, but even I know the fuse/breaker is there to keep the wires from getting overloaded (getting hot and causing a fire).

It seems obvious that there is some sort of transformer/voltage changer that takes the house voltage down to where the bulbs can use it, nominally a few volts DC. This may be what is specced for 9W per socket. Premature failure of this circuit may be more relevant to exceeding what is specified. I'd stick to what the manufacturer says if it were in my house.

You're talking about a difference of .025 amps . That is not going to overload the wire , the breaker or the fixture hardware . There must be something electronic they are trying to protect. Even at that it's such a miniscule difference . Can you post a link to the fixture ?

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
You're talking about a difference of .025 amps . That is not going to overload the wire , the breaker or the fixture hardware . There must be something electronic they are trying to protect. Even at that it's such a miniscule difference . Can you post a link to the fixture ?

There's nothing "electronic" in the light. I assembled it from a box of parts. It's just the wiring from the bulb to the ceiling (which I had to thread through the extensions). Nothing else electrical. Their caveat would have to be because of the delicacy in their wiring?

The link:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/JONAT...ed-Bronze/5013600237

Don't LED's have some device that converts the A/C power to low volt DC?
The limitation could be there.

quote:

Originally posted by Biker_dude:


There's nothing "electronic" in the light. I assembled it from a box of parts. It's just the wiring from the bulb to the ceiling (which I had to thread through the extensions). Nothing else electrical. Their caveat would have to be because of the delicacy in their wiring?

The link:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/JONAT...ed-Bronze/5013600237

Weird. It says the fixture is rated for up to 120W total, and can take three 40W incandescent bulbs. So a 9W limit on LED makes no sense at all.

While I'd never suggest someone else exceed the limitations in their home, from what I see in that link I would happily put higher wattage LEDs in it.

Edited to add: I infer that they are saying there is a typical LED bulb that fits this fixture, and they describe it generically as 9W LED.

quote:

Originally posted by Fly-Sig:

quote:

Originally posted by Biker_dude:


There's nothing "electronic" in the light. I assembled it from a box of parts. It's just the wiring from the bulb to the ceiling (which I had to thread through the extensions). Nothing else electrical. Their caveat would have to be because of the delicacy in their wiring?

The link:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/JONAT...ed-Bronze/5013600237

Weird. It says the fixture is rated for up to 120W total, and can take three 40W incandescent bulbs. So a 9W limit on LED makes no sense at all.

While I'd never suggest someone else exceed the limitations in their home, from what I see in that link I would happily put higher wattage LEDs in it.

Edited to add: I infer that they are saying there is a typical LED bulb that fits this fixture, and they describe it generically as 9W LED.

I just saw that too .

quote:

Originally posted by Fly-Sig:

quote:

Originally posted by Biker_dude:


There's nothing "electronic" in the light. I assembled it from a box of parts. It's just the wiring from the bulb to the ceiling (which I had to thread through the extensions). Nothing else electrical. Their caveat would have to be because of the delicacy in their wiring?

The link:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/JONAT...ed-Bronze/5013600237

Weird. It says the fixture is rated for up to 120W total, and can take three 40W incandescent bulbs. So a 9W limit on LED makes no sense at all.

While I'd never suggest someone else exceed the limitations in their home, from what I see in that link I would happily put higher wattage LEDs in it.

Edited to add: I infer that they are saying there is a typical LED bulb that fits this fixture, and they describe it generically as 9W LED.

Confusing for me, definitely. The actual instructions: "Please use type 'A' bulb max 40-watt or cfl bulb max 13-watt or led bulb max 9-watt; there is led 4-watt bulb in the box."

To each his own . I know what I would do.

Sounds like 40 watts per socket is the true limit while 13watts CFL and 9 watts LED are the equivalent to 40 watt incandescent bulb in terms of light output. The fixture uses standard E26 sockets so there’s no electronics in the fixture converting AC to DC or doing anything else; it’s just straight 120v AC power to each socket.

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
To each his own . I know what I would do.

Light it up like a KMart parking lot?

Not a electrician but it reads like Chinese English.

"Takes 3 bulbs and compatible with TYPE "A" 40W or CFL 13W or LED 9W

Color Temperature: 2700K"

I also think they mean equivalent LED 9W. Also what does color temperature have to do with it.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
Sounds like 40 watts per socket is the true limit while 13watts CFL and 9 watts LED are the equivalent to 40 watt incandescent bulb in terms of light output. The fixture uses standard E26 sockets so there’s no electronics in the fixture converting AC to DC or doing anything else; it’s just straight 120v AC power to each socket.

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
To each his own . I know what I would do.

Light it up like a KMart parking lot?

You know it !

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
To each his own . I know what I would do.

Ignore the caveat and light that sucker like you stole it?

quote:

Originally posted by Biker_dude:

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
To each his own . I know what I would do.

Ignore the caveat and light that sucker like you stole it?

And never look back ...

Heat buildup inside the fixture?

The fixture is rated for 140 watts .

The bulb wattage dictates the amount of current flow it will draw. The fixture rating is the amount of current flow it can safely pass in terms of Wattage.
Gotta do your own math.

Not an electrician but it's probably about heat. It's an open fixture but the wiring is probably 20ga at best in the fixture and even LED bulbs make heat at the base of the bulb.