I switched ISP's to get Fiber to the house. I have a 1G up/down pipe coming in, but only getting 95 Mbps upstairs over the existing Cat 5 cable I made years ago. I ordered a 75' cat 6 cable from Amazon , tested the cable downstairs at my router and was getting about 900 Mbps prior to pulling the cable through the wall. It was tight and I yanked on my string that was taped to the cable pretty hard...
Now that it's been pulled through the wall I'm still getting 95Mbps with the new Cat 6 cable. I'm wondering if I damaged the cable when pulling it.
Is it possible that I damaged the cable in a way as to cause a speed issue or should I be looking for a different cause?This message has been edited. Last edited by: ShouldBFishin, April 06, 2019 03:20 PM
April 05, 2019, 09:24 AM
YellowJacket
how are you testing speed? are you plugging the Cat6 directly into a computer and testing? or are you plugging into a WAP/router and then testing wirelessly?
I'm gonna vote for the funniest frog with the loudest croak on the highest log.
April 05, 2019, 09:28 AM
smschulz
Are testing with the same device? Are you direct connecting to a device or perhaps a switch/hub? Can you do a continuity check on the cable (pins)? Did you drape over a florescent light fixture? Some things to check.
April 05, 2019, 09:30 AM
radioman
something to think about --- 100 Mbps doesn't use all 8 wires. 1G-Base-T does.
If it were me, I'd get one of those $6 Ethernet continuity testers from e-bay and test all 8 wires.
Also, many, even new Ethernet "things" don't work at 1G. I have a fairly new computer from Costco that has Ethernet capability of only 100 Mbps. So are you sure what you are connecting to (on both ends) is 1G capable?
.
April 05, 2019, 09:42 AM
ShouldBFishin
Thanks for the replies.
quote:
Originally posted by YellowJacket: how are you testing speed? are you plugging the Cat6 directly into a computer and testing? or are you plugging into a WAP/router and then testing wirelessly?
quote:
Are testing with the same device? Are you direct connecting to a device or perhaps a switch/hub? Can you do a continuity check on the cable (pins)? Did you drape over a florescent light fixture? Some things to check.
Testing with the SpeedTest windows application (was recommended by speedtest.net for speeds over 100Mbps)
Prior to pulling the new Cat6 cable, I tested it plugged into a router to my laptop - speed was ~900 Mbps. After pulling the cable, tested it plugged into the router to my laptop - Speed was ~95 Mbps. Bypassed the router and went straight to the gateway, same speed (95Mbps).
A 5' cable plugged into the router to my laptop ~900 Mbps.
No florescent lights in the house, but did drape it near an HVAC run for about 20'. The cable does cross a couple of power lines.
I'll have to look for an Ethernet continuity tester...
April 05, 2019, 09:58 AM
FenderBender
cat6 won't care about power cables or hvac, you may have damaged it, but I'm doubtful. are you sure you're not connected via wi-fi on the laptop?
___________________________ The point is, who will stop me?
April 05, 2019, 10:03 AM
ensigmatic
quote:
Originally posted by ShouldBFishin: It was tight and I yanked on my string that was taped to the cable pretty hard...
Define "pretty hard."
UTP and STP cable have specific twist rates between pairs and between the four pairs in the cable. That's how they're able to get once unthinkable data rates through twisted-pair copper. If the cable is stretched too hard, bent to under a certain minimum bend radius, or ever kinked at any time: Yes, the twist(s) can become sufficiently distorted so as to degrade bandwidth.
How was the string attached to the cable? Is it possible it was the connector that was stopping the string from coming off and you yanked one of the conductors loose?
You should be able to look at the client's network connection status (I don't recall how to do that on MS-Windows) and tell what the connection rate is. Sounds like you're getting a 100Mb/s connection, not 1000Mb/s.
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
April 05, 2019, 10:14 AM
henryaz
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic: Define "pretty hard."
This right here. If there were a twist in the cable, pulling hard could turn this into a kink. Pulling hard after you already had the kink would be even worse, as you'd just solidify the kink even more. As ensigmatic mentioned, this could cause the connection to auto-negotiate itself "down" to 100Mbps.
Also, in addition to avoiding fluorescent fixtures, power lines must be crossed at a 90 degree angle to avoid interference.
When in doubt, mumble
April 05, 2019, 11:33 AM
ShouldBFishin
quote:
are you sure you're not connected via wi-fi on the laptop?
I'm getting faster speeds connected to Wi-Fi with my laptop.
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic:
quote:
Originally posted by ShouldBFishin: It was tight and I yanked on my string that was taped to the cable pretty hard...
Define "pretty hard."
UTP and STP cable have specific twist rates between pairs and between the four pairs in the cable. That's how they're able to get once unthinkable data rates through twisted-pair copper. If the cable is stretched too hard, bent to under a certain minimum bend radius, or ever kinked at any time: Yes, the twist(s) can become sufficiently distorted so as to degrade bandwidth.
How was the string attached to the cable? Is it possible it was the connector that was stopping the string from coming off and you yanked one of the conductors loose?
You should be able to look at the client's network connection status (I don't recall how to do that on MS-Windows) and tell what the connection rate is. Sounds like you're getting a 100Mb/s connection, not 1000Mb/s.
I knew better, but that damn cable wasn't coming through and I was losing patience so it was a lot harder than I should have and I'm guessing that's the root of the issue.
The string was tied on about 5 inches below the connector and wrapped w/ electrician's tape all the way up to the connector.
Network status in Windows indicates 1.0 Gbps connection.
April 05, 2019, 11:34 AM
ShouldBFishin
quote:
Originally posted by henryaz:
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic: Define "pretty hard."
This right here. If there were a twist in the cable, pulling hard could turn this into a kink. Pulling hard after you already had the kink would be even worse, as you'd just solidify the kink even more. As ensigmatic mentioned, this could cause the connection to auto-negotiate itself "down" to 100Mbps.
Also, in addition to avoiding fluorescent fixtures, power lines must be crossed at a 90 degree angle to avoid interference.
Thanks the the input.
I'm off to purchase a new cable and a cable tester...
April 05, 2019, 01:11 PM
ensigmatic
quote:
Originally posted by ShouldBFishin: Network status in Windows indicates 1.0 Gbps connection.
Ok, well, then all the conductors are present and accounted-for, or you'd be down to 100MB/s.
I'm guessing kink or too much untwist due to abuse. Since the the link wasn't auto-negotiated down to 100MB/s, you must have one helluva error rate. (Don't recall how to check those, under MS-Win, any longer, either.)
"America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system,,,, but too early to shoot the bastards." -- Claire Wolfe "If we let things terrify us, life will not be worth living." -- Seneca the Younger, Roman Stoic philosopher
April 05, 2019, 02:22 PM
Skins2881
quote:
Originally posted by ShouldBFishin:
quote:
Originally posted by henryaz:
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic: Define "pretty hard."
This right here. If there were a twist in the cable, pulling hard could turn this into a kink. Pulling hard after you already had the kink would be even worse, as you'd just solidify the kink even more. As ensigmatic mentioned, this could cause the connection to auto-negotiate itself "down" to 100Mbps.
Also, in addition to avoiding fluorescent fixtures, power lines must be crossed at a 90 degree angle to avoid interference.
Thanks the the input.
I'm off to purchase a new cable and a cable tester...
Get wife, kid, neighbor to help you pull it. If you feel resistance, stop immediately and free the wire from whatever it's snagging on.
Jesse
Sic Semper Tyrannis
April 05, 2019, 03:36 PM
Rover88
Per Skins-
quote:
Get wife, kid, neighbor to help you pull it. If you feel resistance, stop immediately and free the wire from whatever it's snagging on.
He's right. These cables are not supposed to be subjected to more than 20 lbs. of force on pulls. Stretching is bad, kinks are worse.
Are you using a top quality cable (Commscope, AMP, etc.) or some Chinese import garbage? Also, I try to never pull connectorized cables; I terminate after the pull.
Over a 75' distance in a residential environment I can't see that CAT6 would give noticeably better performance than CAT5e. I did my whole house a couple years ago with Commscope CAT5e and Siemon CAT5e jacks and tested at CAT6 performance everywhere.
FenderBender, where did you hear that CAT6 was not subject to external power interference?
April 05, 2019, 03:40 PM
PowerSurge
Cat6 should never be ran in close proximity and in-line with power cables. It sounds like you may have stretched the cable.
——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1
April 05, 2019, 04:40 PM
Skins2881
quote:
Originally posted by Rover88: .... FenderBender, where did you hear that CAT6 was not subject to external power interference?
The additional twisting on cat6 reduces EMI, it does not eliminate it completely. Where there is higher potential for EMI you can use STP, but it's more expensive, heavier, and requires bonding.
Jesse
Sic Semper Tyrannis
April 05, 2019, 06:38 PM
Lunasee
CAT6 cable does have a minimum bend radius specification. If you violated that (i.e. kinked the cable), that could be your issue.
April 05, 2019, 08:17 PM
henryaz
I've pulled a bit of cable in my time, and to me, the more important job in pulling is the person feeding the wire, not the one at the other end pulling. The feeder can feel the obstacle just as easily, and has the chance/ability to do something about it. Direct communication between the feeder and puller is also a big help.
When in doubt, mumble
April 06, 2019, 05:55 AM
smithbc
1. Make sure that everything that you are using (jacks, cable, patch panels, connectors.... whatever you are using) is at least Cat 6. If it is anything lower (Cat 5e or Cat 5) you network will only run as fast as the lowest link.
2. Get a cable tester to test all of the pairs. If you have access to a Fluke DTX tester it will not only test the pairs, but it will also test the cable to a Cat 6 standard.
3. You may want to cut the RJ 45 off, that you pulled on, and re terminate it.
4. If you have to re pull the cable do not pull it with a RJ 45 on it. Also use some cable lube to help it get through the tight spots. Uf you re pull it cut the 45 off and sew an eye in the cable. When it get to where you are going, cut off the first few feet of the cable.
April 06, 2019, 10:47 AM
FenderBender
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
quote:
Originally posted by Rover88: .... FenderBender, where did you hear that CAT6 was not subject to external power interference?
The additional twisting on cat6 reduces EMI, it does not eliminate it completely. Where there is higher potential for EMI you can use STP, but it's more expensive, heavier, and requires bonding.
As well as the internal inter-pair shielding. thus, passing by some power shouldn't have that kind of effect unless it's some pretty high unshielded voltage.
now my real question is, if you're getting the correct speed over wifi, why bother?
___________________________ The point is, who will stop me?
April 06, 2019, 02:30 PM
PowerSurge
quote:
Originally posted by FenderBender:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
quote:
Originally posted by Rover88: .... FenderBender, where did you hear that CAT6 was not subject to external power interference?
The additional twisting on cat6 reduces EMI, it does not eliminate it completely. Where there is higher potential for EMI you can use STP, but it's more expensive, heavier, and requires bonding.
As well as the internal inter-pair shielding. thus, passing by some power shouldn't have that kind of effect unless it's some pretty high unshielded voltage.
now my real question is, if you're getting the correct speed over wifi, why bother?
I’ve pulled hundreds of thousands of feet of cat6 in my career including termination/punch down. None of it was shielded. Even 120v circuits can cause crosstalk and bandwidth reductions.
——————————————— The fool hath said in his heart, There is no God. Psalm 14:1