So I have been a shooter for a long time though this past weekend some friends and I got together and they brought some recurve bows, which I took quite a liking to so I ended up buying one of my buddies extra bows. I have only shot a couple of compound bows before yesterday, so the recurve thing is new to me.

My question is I was shown how to string it and unstring it via stepping through it, and hooking it around my foot, to bend it for relieving and applying tension though I also saw videos about a bow stringer. Which method is preferred? I tried to not let it twist doing the step through method as warned online, but it is tricky.

Other curiosities are how do I maintain the bow as in should I store it unstrung? Should I store on its side or standing up or hanging up? Should I wax the string? I know not to dry fire at least. A few things though I forgot to ask when I bought it, and I think they just assumed I knew more than I do.

For those in the know it is a Ben Pearson equalizer with a 50# draw weight. It seems to be wooden with some sort of laminate or poly coating over it, I’m not sure.

IMHO, definitely bow stringer. It attaches to the ends of the bow, you step on the bow stringer string, pull up on the bow and then place the bow string in the notches.

Store unstrung (at least no pressure on the bow from the strings). I have ILF limbs so I take mine apart. But for single piece bow, I would rest the bow on the arms on some pegs.

Wow 50# draw weight!! From the beginning!! You must be a big, strong dude. My first bow was 25#.

Thanks appreciate it. Is the step through method bad? Just more can go wrong? And no I am not a huge guy. I am very average in size, I remember my old friend having a 70 pound draw weight compound bow and it was pretty difficult for me so I was hoping to get something in the 40 to 50 pound range. This is definitely an a decent amount of force as I get back towards my cheek but I do like the velocity it provides. I think for me the sweet spot though would still be though in the mid 40s.

Another thing I forgot to ask, I know it’s easier to put the big loop of the string on the top on the smaller loop on the bottom, but mine was reversed, which made it a little harder to get the string off the top, rather than being able to slide it down. Does it really matter if the big loop is on the bottom or top other than just east of (un)stringing?

Even after months of shooting at least 2-3 times per week, I was only able to build enough strength to move from 25# to about 35#, maybe 40# on a good day. I envied guys who could manage 50# draws.

I've never used to step through method. I'm sure it's fine to some extent. But from the beginning I was told to only only use the bow stringer. Better and less prone to injuries if something fails. But I just accepted that; didn't challenge it.

It's hard to compare draw weights between recurve and compound.

The general practice is the big loop goes on the upper limb, the smaller loop goes on the lower limb. When stringing, the small loop goes into the notches while the big loop goes down the limb past the notches. Then when using the bow stringer, you just push the big loop into the notches (using caution and double check it's placed properly before slowly releasing).

It's important to be consistent, especially after you put a nock thingie on your string. The position of the nock thingie will shift if you reverse the string direction.

My local archery shop says you can twist the limbs using the step through method.

I got a 35# starter recurve several weeks ago and love it. Still remember my first X-ring shot. . .

quote:

Originally posted by LincolnSixEcho:
Another thing I forgot to ask, I know it’s easier to put the big loop of the string on the top on the smaller loop on the bottom, but mine was reversed, which made it a little harder to get the string off the top, rather than being able to slide it down. Does it really matter if the big loop is on the bottom or top other than just east of (un)stringing?

Yes, which way up the string is on the bow DOES matter.

The serving - the reinforced section on the centre portion of the string, will probably have a nocking point on it where the arrow is located to be slightly higher than perpendicular to the string position on the bow. The arrow and string to not form a right-angle, but there is a slight - one or two degree - downward slope to the arrow.

Putting the string on upside down will probably affect the arrow position on the string.

The step-through method is just fine on a D-shaped longbow, because there is little risk of twisting the limbs. however, a recurve bow has wide, flat limbs that might suffer distortion. Do what the experts advice, and use a stringer.

PS - I've been shooting for sixty-eight years and STILL learn something new about archery most days.

You can leave it strung. It honestly won’t know if you don’t tell it. Stringing and unstringing just increases the opportunity to induce limb twist. Your compound was strung forever. This subject is analogous to how often should I clean my barrel.

Don’t stand it up in the corner. Most important of all abuses to avoid is storage in a hot car or attic, this especially true if strung. The temperature the epoxy is cured at should certainly not be exceeded.

Another vote for a stringer.
Mine is a SWA takedown & I enjoy shooting it, need to get back to it, now that it's 167* outside