It is a LTX 1050 with Kohler Courage motor. Seems to be in pretty good shape. I have changed the air filter, spark plugs and greased it.

I need to either sharpen or change the blades. I added some oil but need to change it and the filter. I have a fuel filter on the way. It shows in the manual that the drain hole is a twist and pull after I attach a drain tube? Hopefully, that goes well.

Its a little overkill with the 50" for my new back yard but for $300, I couldn't pass it up!

Anyone here have any experience with such an animal?

I have one that I bought new in 2012 and it is still going strong. I use it to mow about 4 acres during the summer. I change the oil every fall before putting it up for the winter and keep lubed and maintained during the summer months. I'm still on the original battery, if you can believe that!

As long as you keep it maintained it should last you a long time.

Thank you for the reply. When you drain your oil, I know I attach a drain hose but does the spout thingy turn and pull out? Or just pull out? I found the cap and a small black piece but they both came off. They just slide back on. The drain part is red with barbs for the drain tube.

quote:

Originally posted by ggile:
I have one that I bought new in 2012 and it is still going strong. I use it to mow about 4 acres during the summer. I change the oil every fall before putting it up for the winter and keep lubed and maintained during the summer months. I'm still on the original battery, if you can believe that!

As long as you keep it maintained it should last you a long time.

I have an XT3 Enduro with a 50" deck. In the winter I run a Berco 48" blower on it. Before this I had a GT2544 which I passed on to my son. On both I change(d) the oil in the fall, and sharpened the blades in the spring. When I changed the oil I would grease the tractor and the deck. On both mine the oil drain is a small pipe that runs towards the front of the engine on the chassis rail and is closed with a screw in drain plug.

I have never had to change a deck belt, but occasionally would snap a PTO belt after two or three years. The oil filters, and belts (if you know the size) can be obtained from NAPA - I use a NAPA Gold filter - at a cheaper cost than from CC. Fuel filters are pretty generic, and air filters are cheap. The only thing you have to watch for is the steering has one or two zerks hidden down below the battery tray and if you miss them it can banjo the steering so you cannot steer, it can be fixed, but a bit of grease prevents it occurring in the first place. Make sure you check the transmission fluid regularly, most CC repairs are fairly cheap, but grenading the transmission gets pricey.

A trick to putting the deck back on is to slide a board or piece of scrap lumber under the rear edge of the deck which makes it easier to line up the lift brackets/hooks, about 3/4 -1" is ideal.

quote:

LTX 1050

a flappy disc in a 4" grinder works well for sharpening blades

My drain plug is sort of "T" shaped with the drain portion being the long part of the "T". The short portion in attached to the motor on one end and the other end has a "screw" type valve and you need a screw driver to open and close the valve.

I've only had to had to change the deck belt a couple times and it's not difficult. Pykers suggestion of placing scrap lumber under the rear edge is also what I do. I've had to replace the transmission belt once and that was not fun!

I went to drain the oil and whole red barbed part I attached the tube to came all the way out!! Oil everywhere! The nut that tightens to the motor is loose, too. Jesus!!

I reckon your name would be added to the Sigforum ring of honor if you offered to karma that thing.

quote:

Originally posted by BennerP220:
I went to drain the oil and whole red barbed part I attached the tube to came all the way out!! Oil everywhere! The nut that tightens to the motor is loose, too. Jesus!!

I was going to post, be careful not to pull it off.
Doesn't take much... I always use extreme caution while opening the drain port.

If yours has that yellow twist connector that lets the oil out be careful. It’s very brittle plastic. The bolt that it connects to, and is threaded into motor was loose on mine too. I tried to tighten bolt and cracked the yellow thing. Caused a small leak. But a little oil spreads out a long way on a floor. Cub was quick getting the $16 part. Ordered in Earle afternoon one day, had it the next. Company sales guy working from home. Seems they must have a distribution center here in Ohio.

So, I’ve done some digging. I’m going to replace that drain with 3/8 pipe nipple. Probably five inch. Then Do a 90 and then another two inch nipple with a cap. Oil changes should be easier after that. Should be around $5 total. Fingers crossed.

If I was going to repipe it, I'd install a ball valve and plug it.
Makes less of a mess while removing and installing the plug.

That is a great idea! I'll do just that!

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
If I was going to repipe it, I'd install a ball valve and plug it.
Makes less of a mess while removing and installing the plug.

The re piping went without a hitch! Screwed right in and works like a charm! Thanks!