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Just for the hell of it |
I would drain and fill. If it's not too hard I would put in a new filter also. Today ATF has lots of additives that break down over time. Does it have a dipstick? If so what color is the fluid? Does it smell burnt? Dropping the pan is a good idea but not always simple on today's transversely mounted engines and transmissions. Do not have anyone use a flush machine on it. That can cause problems. _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
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Save today, so you can buy tomorrow |
I took my older Honda Accord to the dealer for a transmission oil change. I don't even know anything about flushing. The service tech recommended it (for additional cost). He said it is highly recommended. So it had them do it. Immediately after they did the flush, it started throwing error codes while at the shop. They told me that some solenoid got plugged in with dirt when they did the flush. I told them it is on them to fix it (free of charge), as it was their service tech who recommended it. We went back and forth on who will pay for the repair. They ended up paying. Flushing may give you some problem eventually. _______________________ P228 - West German | |||
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Member |
If only looking to get 30k more and dont care about resale or failure and not dirty or burnt, let er buck, but 100k is what they mean by lifetime fluid. “Let us dare to read, think, speak and write.” John Adams | |||
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Savor the limelight |
Yes, it has a dip stick. | |||
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Member |
If you choose the drain, fill, and repeat method - look for an online calculator that determines how many drain/refills you’ll need. I did it in my old Odyssey using Honda ATF and purchased about 12 quart for four flushes. Mathematically it was 90% or more of fresh ATF when I was done. That would be my advice. P229 | |||
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Member |
I bought a used car with 110K miles on it. The ATF is red with a brown tint. I took it to the dealer and asked them if I should change it. They said not too, to let it be. In addition, there is a guy on YT, a former certified Toyota mechanic who goes by the name of Car Care Nut. He too said that if it hasn't been changed by the 100K mark to leave it alone and he explains why. Has nothing to do with stirring up debris or anything like that. It's something to do with clutch material that will be drained away if you change the fluid. | |||
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Do the next right thing |
The techs I knew would unanimously say don't touch it. | |||
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A Grateful American |
Clutches use alternating discs, steel and lined. The lined discs use organic laminated material, much like brake or clutch lining. It is bonded, so nothing is going to be "drained away". What can happen, is if the clutches are worn beyond service life or damaged (burned), changing fluid can result in slipping. But such a transmission is already in trouble. It's like having bad arteries and your doctor tells you that you have pushed yourself to a point that you need stents or angioplasty, but in some cases there is risk that can result in heart attack, but if you don't deal with it, your going to have a shortened life. While the latter is a death sentence, and the former is just getting some more miles by leaving it alone. Being that the OP is twice over the fluid change/servicing mileage, it's already on borrowed time, can it make it two more years 30k miles? I would have tow insurance, and a plan if it craps out beforehand. If that's covered, send it. "the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב! | |||
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Member |
I’m a firm believer in routine transmission servicing including new filters and fluid. Having said that, it should be done every 40,000 to 50,000 miles or every 3 years or so, whichever is less. I do realize that it’s easy for me to say that because I have a lift in my detached garage and enough tools to be an A line mechanic at most shops. However, if you want to maximize the life of your vehicle, maintenance beyond what the manufacturer considers the minimum is key in my opinion. In the case of the OP, I’d say that unless the transmission fluid is clearly burnt, I’d leave it alone. You’re more likely to get slippage sooner at this point if you change it now. “It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.” | |||
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Alienator |
You never want to flush a car transmission with miles on it. It ends up clogging up the internals as you move trash through it. Drain and fill is the best way to introduce new fluid without damaging the transmission. SIG556 Classic P220 Carry SAS Gen 2 SAO SP2022 9mm German Triple Serial P938 SAS P365 FDE P322 FDE Psalm 118:24 "This is the day which the Lord hath made; we will rejoice and be glad in it" | |||
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delicately calloused |
For the record, there’s a difference between power flushing and a drain and fill. You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier | |||
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Member |
I would consider leaving it alone... if it looks and smells good... but only because you don't plane to keep it much longer... otherwise a drain and fill. My 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix ran 300k miles on the factory fill with zero trans issues. My 2006 GMC Envoy ran 250k miles with only one trans fluid change at 100k miles with zero trans issues. Collecting dust. | |||
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