October 15, 2017, 07:57 PM
a1abdjBEST GUN SAFE to fit in typical closet
quote:
I only have four long guns
Regardless of manufacturer, you're only going to get to use +/- half of the stated capacities. In a typical gun safe the interior is split into half, so assuming you're going to use one side for long arms and the other for shelves, you'll want to be looking at a minimum of 16 long arm capacity.
Whether or not the remaining shelving will store your pistols will depend on how you're planning on storing those. If they are all going to be in their original boxes, a second safe may make sense. If they are on racks or in socks, then you would probably be fine with one safe that is properly sized.
quote:
I also need to know about locks. What will do the job, and is reliable. Hand dial,digital i have no idea.
Most modern locks will do the job, so long as they are UL listed. Any gun safe with the RSC rating will use a UL rated lock, but generally the least expensive model possible.
As the price of an electronic lock goes up you don't necessarily see an increase in mechanical quality. Features (software) is what will drive the price. On mechanical locks you will see better mechanical and build quality if you spend more.
Big Red, S&G 6740, and the LaGard 3300 tend to be the most common locks on gun safes. I haven't had many issues with the first two, but I'm not fond of the LaGard. The S&G 6730 is a much better lock, probably one of the most common commercial locks in existence, and the price difference is minimal (tens of dollars). Of all of the safes I have sold with the Big Red, I haven't had a single issue (knock on wood).
quote:
I'm seeing designs now that have both, either two separate locks, or a single lock that is a combination of both. What do think of both of these systems?
Redundant lock vs. redundant bolt work. The bolt work version has been around forever, and commonly seen on bank vaults. Due to the cost of opening a vault door in the event of a failure, it is cheap insurance.
The problem with a redundant lock is that the lock still shares common components across both systems, and should a failure occur there, you're no better off than before. Redundant locks are also much deeper than a regular lock and may not work inside of all safe doors.
In the end I wouldn't be overly concerned. Gun safes are not that expensive to drill open in the event of a failure.
October 15, 2017, 08:36 PM
arfmelquote:
Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
quote:
If you put the pistols in "Bore Stores" silicone treated fleece cases I imagine you can get 25 handguns on a couple of shelves in a safe. I've used them for years and have never had a problem with rust or damage to anything I've stored in them.
Thanks. We have gulf coast humidity, but assume you have not lived in Jerkwater the whole time. West texas bone dry.
I used to live in Houston.

October 16, 2017, 07:32 AM
ZSMICHAELquote:
posted October 15, 2017 08:36 PM Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
quote:
If you put the pistols in "Bore Stores" silicone treated fleece cases I imagine you can get 25 handguns on a couple of shelves in a safe. I've used them for years and have never had a problem with rust or damage to anything I've stored in them.
Thanks. We have gulf coast humidity, but assume you have not lived in Jerkwater the whole time. West texas bone dry.
I used to live in Houston.
Now I get it.
October 16, 2017, 07:35 AM
ZSMICHAELGreat information guys thanks a lot. Frank could I shoot you an email with my contact information? My email is not listed in my profile because I am paranoid. I could send you complete list of my firearms and go from there. I know you do not work for free, but I hate the Big Easy. I would need a posse to go with me. It is going on a slab no basements here. Need to measure closet. I am unsure if I need to bolt to floor. I do not live in the lower 9th ward in NOLA or East Saint Louis. It has gotten sketchy now since Katrina. That is why I carry.
I know you do not work for free so appreciate all the advice so far.
October 16, 2017, 10:18 AM
a1abdjSure. No need for a list though, as what you have isn't as important as how you will store it.
October 16, 2017, 01:33 PM
arfmelOP
you might consider using a "Goldenrod" to keep air circulating in your safe.
https://www.btibrands.com/brands/golden-rod/October 16, 2017, 04:32 PM
konata88Sorry for the thread drift - I can start a separate thread if appropriate.
I'm considering a fire safe to keep important docs (titles, passports, etc). I have a small safe right now but I know it's woefully inadequate against fires.
I've looked at Liberty, Rhino, AmSec offerings and this seems like one of the best spec'ed in the size desired (not too big - just large enough to house docs and maybe a few other things; I may consider bigger to use for multi-purpose but this is the min size to start).
http://www.amsecusa.com/product/ul1812x/Would a safe like this survive the recent Santa Rosa type of fires? Other recommendations?
October 16, 2017, 05:36 PM
a1abdjquote:
Would a safe like this survive the recent Santa Rosa type of fires?
Liberty and Rhino do not make a UL listed fire safe, which is what you're looking at with the linked AMSEC. There are other UL rated fire safes that will run less, but the AMSEC is a commercial design that will have a better lock, boltwork, hinges, etc.
The answer is that it depends. Many of the success stories that you see manufacturers bragging about are more an example of luck than quality. Anything UL listed will tend to perform as advertised. 2 hours, 1700 degrees. If the fire burns longer or hotter then who knows.
I did have an AMSEC high security composite safe in a fire locally. It was bad fire where the safe was hot for roughly 6 hours. Even though it only had a 2 hour rating, the contents mostly survived.
For a fire like the one in California, you would likely be better off installing a safe into the floor as opposed to sitting on top of it.
October 16, 2017, 06:04 PM
konata88Thanks.
Concrete slab so in-floor safe may be more challenging.
What if I used the safe above on-floor but built a brick or concrete box around it? Maybe stack bricks in front of the door for easier access (don't really need access to the safe except maybe infrequently - when we need passports, for example). Stupid idea? Or may buy some time. Maybe a layer of aramid between the safe and the concrete?
This is only for protection if we're away from the house if there's a fire.
October 16, 2017, 09:41 PM
Fenrisquote:
Originally posted by a1abdj:
For a fire like the one in California, you would likely be better off installing a safe into the floor as opposed to sitting on top of it.
It's kinda heavy to lift the safe out every time I want to get a gun.