Not something you'd want to buy for a one time job, but man oh man if you do a lot of automotive work or whatever, every time I used this induction heater I think "what did I wait so long for?" So nice heating things in places without setting everything else around it on fire.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...n_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

quote:

Originally posted by bdylan:
The welded nut solution almost always works. Many times, even if the head is broken completely off, you can get it out with a sharp punch and hammer... it's a little bit of craft to it. The inserts in the link can work too. A left-hand drill bit can sometimes do the trick. PB blaster helps.

if you have to drill it out and you are using left-handed bits, make sure you have a left-handed drill, (LOL). when I bought mine the counter dude said make sure you run the drill in reverse, I said do I look like an idiot? he said no, but a guy brought a set back because he burnt the tips on most of the bits because he didn't know (WTF)

Cas, that little induction heater looks very cool, we use big ass ones at work, never saw one so small (i'll have one soon)

Kroil is the best penetrating oil I have used, although I have not tried the CorrosionX

Finally got the items together to try and tackle this task.

Ordered some Kroil oil, the RexbitI sockets, a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adapter.

Put some Kroil on it a couple of times. Let it do its thing for several days. Used the Rexbit socket, socket adapter and a fixed breaker bar. At first I thought I snapped off the bolt. but upon further inspect and another go at it with the breaker bar the bolt came loose. Situation resolved.

Special Thanks Balze Halze and of course all the rest of you. You guys are awesome.

quote:

Originally posted by a1abdj:
I doubt it would be, but it's worth asking. It's not a reverse threaded bolt is it?

I know a certain dumb ass, that dumb ass was/is me, who was trying to take off a reverse threaded bolt the "regular" way and ended up snapping the head off.

Neighbor got home from work and welded a nut on for me to properly get the rest of the bolt out. Looking back at it, that was almost 20 years ago.

Excellent. Well done. Very happy to hear that worked out for you.

When using any penetrating oil make sure to tap the part often with a hammer to set off vibrations that help the oil seep into the threads.

Nice to hear the update report and that it was a success!

I’ve never had the occasion to use this but a 50:50 mix of trans fluid and acetone is supposed to be fantastic at this.

After I saw this thread, I ordered the 41 piece Rexbeti kit as a just in case since I have had to deal with many stripped bolts in my life. I will be changing my transmission fluid and filter tomorrow myself on my 22 year old truck for the first time and today while degreasing everything, noticed the drain plug is completely stripped from some shop that has changed it before. We will see if these work and get the bolt off. I have a new one on hand to replace it with.

I think you will be pleasantly surprised Normin. Good luck.
Be patient. I takes a minute or two to get things set. Remember you are dealing with a stripped bolt. It takes a minute or two to find the right size and then get it to bite. But they work.

A little late to the party...

I use a set similar to this one at work.
The welder isn't always available.

https://www.grainger.com/produ...ctor-Set-10-Pc-2RUR2


Sometimes heat is used on bolts that are known to have thread sealant, such as loctite. Getting bolt over 400F breaks that bond.


Guys in the rebuild department swear by a tapping method. On a larger bolt such as M16 or M20. They start by tapping the bolt head with a steel hammer with a few whacks. Then one guy would be removing with normal tools while another delivers repeated rapids hits on the ratchet with a soft dead blow hammer. Hitting along the bolt axis, not the handle area.

It seemingly defies logic, but sometimes tigtening ever so slightly allows it to break loose.

Congrats ORC! And thanks to many for the great suggestions.

It is too late by the time the heads are stripped, but Snap-On wrenches and sockets grab the bolts on the flats, not on the corners. They are silly expensive, but they work. You can see the shape easily, they are actually relived around the corners of the bolt head or nut.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
I think you will be pleasantly surprised Normin. Good luck.
Be patient. I takes a minute or two to get things set. Remember you are dealing with a stripped bolt. It takes a minute or two to find the right size and then get it to bite. But they work.

Well it worked. The kit has every mm except 15mm, which is the size of the bolt. I had to spend a lot of time hammering the heck out of the 14mm to get it on, but once I did, it unscrewed it perfectly! So happy. Then I ran into a whole other problem and couldn’t finish the job. I changed 3 quarts of transmission fluid, but could not replace the filter or gasket since I couldn’t get the pan out. To get the transmission pan out, you have to remove a stupid shifter cable bracket and the screws to it are hidden so you can even see them, you can barely get one hand up to them, and they are a Torx T40 for some reason! I could not for the life of me get them out. I will try again another day using a pry bar to pry the bracket out of the way instead of removing it.

Here are picks of the bolt after removal.