Thanks for the replies so far.

Truck is a 01 GMC Sonoma, V6, 4WD. It is the sensor after the cat.

I have check fuses and couldn't find any bad.

I did mention to most of the shops that I didn't care about any warranty and would happily pay the labor and sign the invoice as such but no go with any of them.

I think my biggest "problem" to start with is not having a lift to get enough room to actually work on it. I am having to work on my back with not a lot of room to play around. Initially I had considered cutting the plug off to get a box wrench on it but not knowing for sure it would come out, I didn't do that yet and a open end with no room to work just ain't working lol

I will start soaking it with lube tomorrow and see what happens in a couple days. I guess I will just "go for it" the next time I try and just cut the plug off to get the box end or a socket on it.

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Kroul and heat. Repeat until it comes out.

This, get yourself a map gas bottle torch and heat the crap out of it and it should come out.

Or just pay them to fix it and supply the parts......sometimes it's your only option.

Lots of good suggestions.

A couple thoughts on access to work. If you have a floor jack and good jack stands, this can go a long way. Another option I’ve seen (but not used) are metal ramps sold at many auto parts stores. They only give you and extra foot or so, but if you have a vehicle you can drive onto them (no good with dead engine or trans) they can be quite helpful.

If time is not a concern, spray it down everyday for a week with penetrating oil. When your ready to remove it, cut the wire off the sensor and use a 6 point socket.

I knock them out on the first try with a can of PB Blaster/Kroil and a torch.

Is this the upstream sensor or the downstream sensor?

slosig, funny you should mention a jack and stands. I did find out a couple days ago that we do actually have a floor jack at work. Would definitely have been nice to know about that sooner lol. Stands on the other hand we do dot have. I may just end up buying a set and being done with it

Mars, it is the downstream, after the cat.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:


Or just pay them to fix it and supply the parts......sometimes it's your only option.

Dude, did you not read his OP, or his post directly preceding yours?

Put a help wanted ad in craigslist or if you have FaceBook put one there. People will respond pretty quick. I hope this helps. God Bless

Just went through this last week with a 1996 Ford F150 for emmissions testing. Was throwing a o2 sensor slow to respond code. First tried emptying a full can of carb cleaner through the intake as it was running. This made the code not come up instantly, but it would still come up after a few minutes of driving. Ended up buying a 7/8 split O2 sensor deep socket off Amazon for $8+ (free next day delivery) and used a 3/8ths breaker bar to bust it loose from the rust. Instead of replacing though, I simply soaked the O2 sensor in white vinegar for 20 minutes and put it back in. Passed emissions with flying colors and the code still hasn't returns. Mine was pre-catalyst. The post catalyst sensors were not throwing codes. Yeah it's pretty cheapskate to clean and re-use a O2 sensor, but hey, $40 bucks is $40 bucks and it only had to last through emissions testing.. Code still has not come back though after a few hundred miles.

If I can get a pipe wrench on them I will, it gives me the leverage I need to twist them out.
After a good soaking with penetrating oil.
I'll torch the piece it screws into then shoot the oil on it.
I've never rung one off.

If you were near me, I'd do it for you.

A update on this for those interested.

I finally was able to get to my buddies shop Thursday and got the the sensor replaced.

I was soaking it for a couple days but still ended up having to torch it to get it out, and needed to chase the threads to get the new one in.

BUT....left work Friday and the light came on AGAIN. Now with two new codes

According to my buddy and internet digging, I apparently now have a intake manifold leak.

This is why I do not like these new vehicles. Now I get to make a bunch of calls Monday and find somewhere to to take it as my buddy won't be able to get into it for a few weeks.

Fun

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:


Or just pay them to fix it and supply the parts......sometimes it's your only option.

Dude, did you not read his OP, or his post directly preceding yours?

Pretty sure Jimmy meant to just suck it up and let the shop supply the parts.

quote:

Originally posted by PakRatJR:

This is why I do not like these new vehicles.

Man, the truck is nearly 20 years old. Haha.

LOL Balze...yup, "new" to me is basically anything newer than late '80s or so lol

This stupid computer controlled, "check engine" stuff is just too annoying. I used to be able to fix my own stuff and not have to worry about emissions testing every year and possibly failing because of some possibly non essential "problem".

After the CAT usually means the cat is bad.

I just remove the sensor, drill out a no foul spark plug insert to 1/2" and put the sensor into it and screw the assembly back in.

quote:

Originally posted by PakRatJR:
LOL Balze...yup, "new" to me is basically anything newer than late '80s or so lol

This stupid computer controlled, "check engine" stuff is just too annoying. I used to be able to fix my own stuff and not have to worry about emissions testing every year and possibly failing because of some possibly non essential "problem".

I feel ya'. I miss the simplicity of my first vehicle, a '71 Pontiac LeMans. Even my '96 Isuzu wasn't too bad to work on.

One mechanic that I know had a sign that said "you wouldn't bring eggs from home and ask the cook at a restaurant to make them, would you?"

I asked him why not just raise your labor charge for customer supplied parts? He thought I was nuts. That wasn't the only thing he did that made it hard for customers to give him their money but eventually he went out of business. I guess if he had a parking lot full of work that he couldn't get to, I'd understand, but there were cobwebs in his toolbox.

I had this happen on a 1999 Tahoe I bought last year. One O2 code, replaced, now a cat code. Replaced that cat, now the other cat throws a code. Replaced it also, along with both downstream O2 sensors. Problem fixed. It was a pain, but I got each cat for $60, and the sensors were $30 each. I now have a great running truck for $1000 and a day of welding on the exhaust. I’ve been driving it a year now, and I didn’t have a cardiac arrest seeing the price of a new truck.

If you need to do any others, the proper advice is already in this thread. Kroil and a torch, with a heavy O2 sensor wrench. There’s nothing that won’t back out with acetylene. BTW, stores like Oreillys will loan you the tool. Good luck on the rest of the job. Perhaps defeating the downstream O2 sensor with a spark plug no-foul as Mars_Attacks as already mentioned.

Thanks.
Thankfully the o2 code went away. So that at least seems to be fixed. I just thought it odd that and rather annoying that I have two new codes now. I would have thought if there was a intake leak it would have come up sooner and not after I fixed another "issue". Oh well, is what it is I guess.

quote:

Originally posted by PakRatJR:


BUT....left work Friday and the light came on AGAIN. Now with two new codes

According to my buddy and internet digging, I apparently now have a intake manifold leak.

This is why I do not like these new vehicles.

Been there , done that.
An intake manifold leak can be easier (or harder) to track down,
Exhaust manifold leak (what I had) is easier (but more expensive to fix) easier to diagnose.

I hate dealing with all these codes on the new cars too.

O2 codes will be different depending on where the issue occurs and your results are not unusual.

It's nice to have an ECM that can identify an issue but the problem is that you could actually have a problem "created" by it being on the grid and you may not have an actual problem with the vehicle but one with the electrical or the sensors themselves.

I went through all of this on my truck and ended up replacing the whole exhaust including the headers.
At least now the truck screams and no ECM codes.
But the story doesn't end there - having transmission code problems now and sorting it out.

quote:

Originally posted by Shifferbrains:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:


Or just pay them to fix it and supply the parts......sometimes it's your only option.

Dude, did you not read his OP, or his post directly preceding yours?

YES, DID YOU??????? No mechanic wants to work on it, because the OP WANTS TO SUPPLY HIS OWN PARTS.

It is totally understandable that no reputable shop wants to change an emissions part with a customer supplied part.