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Too soon old,
Too late smart
posted
Have fixture installed in shed (thanks Jesse!) but would like more light. Short of installing a new fixture, can existing bulbs be replaced?


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Posts: 1513 | Location: NoVa | Registered: March 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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By fluorescent, do you mean the long skinny fluorescent bulbs and the three styles are t5, t8, and t12? If so, Amazon sells t5, t8, and t12 LED replacement bulbs.



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Posts: 23956 | Location: Northern Suburbs of Houston | Registered: November 14, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
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Roger you can just put LED replacement lamps in, light may be slightly brighter, but they are designed as replacements not upgrades. I forgot what we installed, was it a two lamp 4' florescent?



Jesse

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Posts: 21342 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
orareyougladtoseeme
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I have a few LED replacement bulbs and they work good. My only issue they can be flakey at low settings with a dimmer.
 
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Thank you
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Bought replacement LEDs for my garage florescents, been in for a couple of years, they are brighter/whiter and didn't have to remove ballast or change the end tombstones, simple to do.
 
Posts: 24667 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Costco has them. Direct replacement for the 4' tubes. Nice and bright.
 
Posts: 1374 | Registered: October 19, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Chip away the stone
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We replaced flo bulbs with LEDs in probably 60 fixtures where I work a couple of years ago. Probably had to replace 6 defective bulbs in that time, and not one damned ballast. The quality of light is much better, too.

I've replace some at home as well and am very happy.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the replacement LEDs require the "tombstones" in the fixture to be "non-shunted." I think, but am not certain, that means there is not a physical connection in the tombstone completing the circuit between the two wires that run into the tombstone which allows power to flow from one tombstone to an adjacent tombstone.

To make life easy, I suggest purchasing LEDs that have the proper tombstones included. I've used the brand "Toggled," from Home Depot. They include tombstones as well as wire nuts. If you have a 4-bulb fixture, you may need a large (yellow) wire nut to accommodate all of the wires, instead of the smaller (orange) ones. The Toggled bulbs I got included that, as well.
 
Posts: 11597 | Registered: August 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
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quote:
Originally posted by rusbro:
We replaced flo bulbs with LEDs in probably 60 fixtures where I work a couple of years ago. Probably had to replace 6 defective bulbs in that time, and not one damned ballast. The quality of light is much better, too.

I've replace some at home as well and am very happy.

IMPORTANT NOTE: the replacement LEDs require the "tombstones" in the fixture to be "non-shunted." I think, but am not certain, that means there is not a physical connection in the tombstone completing the circuit between the two wires that run into the tombstone which allows power to flow from one tombstone to an adjacent tombstone.

To make life easy, I suggest purchasing LEDs that have the proper tombstones included. I've used the brand "Toggled," from Home Depot. They include tombstones as well as wire nuts. If you have a 4-bulb fixture, you may need a large (yellow) wire nut to accommodate all of the wires, instead of the smaller (orange) ones. The Toggled bulbs I got included that, as well.


You are the second person to mention "shunted" sockets recently. What does that mean? I'm a master electrician and have done LED retrofits for every kind of fixture there is and never heard the term before.

Whatever you are using sounds way overly complicated. If it's T8 you can just buy the replacement Phillips lamps and swap with no other changes. There are many on the market that just pop in.



Jesse

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Posts: 21342 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Shunted vs non-shunted

 
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A timely topic. I have 22 year old fluorescent 2-bulb fixtures with balast. I got some LED bulbs from Home Depot and they would not light. Friend told me I had to take out the balast and then they would work? Sounds like that's not the case from reading the comments here.

Would love to just buy LED and plug them in...Help!


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Chip away the stone
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Shunted v. Non-shunted.

https://insights.regencylighti...o-tell-what-you-need

EDIT TO ADD: I've only done replacements where I was able to remove the ballast, as getting rid of the ballast was a major appeal to me.
 
Posts: 11597 | Registered: August 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Yokel
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quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
Shunted vs non-shunted

[FLASH_VIDEO]<iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Bdsj8HMDGtA" width="560"></iframe>[/FLASH_VIDEO]


Thanks

i have wanting to upgrade garage lighting and this will help.



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Chip away the stone
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This is a pretty good video by the brand I used:

<br />
 
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Ammoholic
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quote:
Originally posted by FiveFiveSixFan:
Shunted vs non-shunted

[FLASH_VIDEO][/FLASH_VIDEO]


Ah, it's the difference between instant/rapid start ballasts. Instant start ballasts will use sockets with two spots to plug wires into, rapid start will have four. For the most part shunted will = T8 (except the very earliest ones) and T12 will use non-shunted.

You will only use non-shunted for direct wired self driven tubes (we do not use this kind for safety reasons). So I have only worked with ballast driven LEDs. When I convert T12/rapid start/non-shunted fixtures to LED I install new T8 ballast and part of the rewiring process turns them into shunted sockets.

Now it all makes sense. I suggest NOT using retrofit tubes that use 120v. Too easy for someone to hurt themselves while changing lamps or short out tube while changing them. Anyone who has changed a lamp in a 2X4 lay-in fixture will know what I'm talking about, very hard to change lamp without one of the pins touching the fixtures metal framing.



Jesse

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Posts: 21342 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Too soon old,
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quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Roger you can just put LED replacement lamps in, light may be slightly brighter, but they are designed as replacements not upgrades. I forgot what we installed, was it a two lamp 4' florescent?


Hi Jesse, yes... 2 lamp 4' florescent. You were right, lots of light is good! On an overcast day don't get much additional light.


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Ammoholic
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quote:
Originally posted by RogB:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Roger you can just put LED replacement lamps in, light may be slightly brighter, but they are designed as replacements not upgrades. I forgot what we installed, was it a two lamp 4' florescent?


Hi Jesse, yes... 2 lamp 4' florescent. You were right, lots of light is good! On an overcast day don't get much additional light.


Depending on which brand lamps were put in those should put out 2600-2900 lumen. If you want brighter you will need something over 3,000 lumen which is not normal for the ones I've seen.

I'd suggest a second fixture over work space or changing to four lamp fixture. Next time I'm near your house I'll try and pop in and give you some advice. Are you using part of shed as workshop?



Jesse

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Posts: 21342 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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So bottom line is I can get LEDs, Costco or HD, and replace existing florescent bulbs? No other thing necessary?

Sorry, posted before I saw your post Jesse


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Chip away the stone
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quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
I suggest NOT using retrofit tubes that use 120v. Too easy for someone to hurt themselves while changing lamps or short out tube while changing them. Anyone who has changed a lamp in a 2X4 lay-in fixture will know what I'm talking about, very hard to change lamp without one of the pins touching the fixtures metal framing.


There will only be power at one end of the bulb (with the ones I've done). I think it would probably be very difficult to touch one of the pins on the powered end to the metal while the other powered-end-pin was still in the socket. It's probably easy to touch one of the powered-end pins with your finger while the other is in the socket, however.
 
Posts: 11597 | Registered: August 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
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quote:
Originally posted by rusbro:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
I suggest NOT using retrofit tubes that use 120v. Too easy for someone to hurt themselves while changing lamps or short out tube while changing them. Anyone who has changed a lamp in a 2X4 lay-in fixture will know what I'm talking about, very hard to change lamp without one of the pins touching the fixtures metal framing.


There will only be power at one end of the bulb (with the ones I've done). I think it would probably be very difficult to touch one of the pins on the powered end to the metal while the other was still in the socket. It's probably easy to touch one of the powered-end pins with your finger while the other is in the socket, however.


Your link also says they recommend against using direct wire for the same safety aspect as well as lack of consistent wiring diagram for direct wire/self driven lamps. I do them in commercial/retail environments where we can not turn off power while relamping/repairs so this plays a big part. Also the people who work in retail are generally as smart as fast food workers they are just more presentable and speak English.

Also for single pin lamps you will always have two live ends.

For home use I can't see any significant danger as it is simple to just turn off light switch when relamping.

It's funny we thought LEDs would kill our business because they are supposed to last 20 years, nope. I fix LEDs all the time, usually driver fails.



Jesse

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Ammoholic
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quote:
Originally posted by RogB:
So bottom line is I can get LEDs, Costco or HD, and replace existing florescent bulbs? No other thing necessary?

Sorry, posted before I saw your post Jesse


Try these Phillips ones, you should be able to find single/two packs in store. You will have to just try them and see if they appear brighter or not. No way to directly compare lumen ratings. If you don't think it's brighter, then just return them.

I'd just suggests separate task lighting if it's an issue of seeing something you are working on. If the entire shed needs more light then a second light or replace with 4 bulb one. There's a million options, just need to find the one that works for you..



Jesse

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Posts: 21342 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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