Never used one like that, but essentially as you tighten the nut it pulls the opening shut over the post.
"We've done four already, but now we're steady..."
September 23, 2024, 05:10 PM
architect
Looks like the nut may have a cone on the bottom that engages with the slot on the clamp to tighten the band while screwing it down. Ingenious, but maybe not as straightforward as one would want. I'd go with a more conventional terminal clamp.
OTOH, you should be able to validate installation manually without a lot of uncertainty. Tighten it down, and perform the wiggle test. If it doesn't move, I'd be satisfied.
September 23, 2024, 05:22 PM
sigmonkey
Yep. That's Jed.
"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
September 23, 2024, 05:26 PM
kkina
Ah-ha, I see the cone now in the video. Still wonder if anyone has practical experience with this design.
Looks like that slot is pear shapped (think fruit) and the cone on the bottom of that nut makes it way to the larger end of the "pear" as it is tightened. Looks well built and probably provided good clamping force on the battery post.
The old school lead ones definitely deform if over tightened. Only problem with the tinned coated ones like you've inquired about seem to be corrosion if the battery is weeping around the post in my experience.
September 23, 2024, 06:08 PM
RB211
Looks like the same design on my '04 Corvette, just with the cable directly attached, no lug like this one. I've never had any issues with mine coming loose.
They're OK when they're new, and they suck sweaty hippo balls when they're old. The slide is supposed to be pushed sideways by the forcing cone of the nut when you tighten it, thus tightening the clamp. It only works when everything is within spec and free of any corrosion or corrosion damage.
I'm about the replace yet another of these abominations with the cheapest car-quest old-style clamp available.
=== I would like to apologize to anyone I have *not* offended. Please be patient. I will get to you shortly.
September 23, 2024, 06:22 PM
kkina
^I can see that. A lot of sliding surface area. Not corrosion-friendly.
ETA: Decided to go to old-school after all. TY for the replies.This message has been edited. Last edited by: kkina,
I prefer to use the "so-called" military style battery terminal clamps. You can access your accessories without disconnecting from the battery. If you DO need to disconnect the battery, one bolt on the positive side removes all of the accessory connections as well.
My 2010 Tacoma and my wife's 2003 Sequoia have a positive terminal clamp with a separate bolt for accessories, but it is of a different layout/design.
When in doubt, mumble
September 24, 2024, 07:14 AM
egregore
quote:
Still wonder if anyone has practical experience with this design.
OEM on many new(er) vehicles. OK when new, not so much with age and/or corrosion. If over-tightened, they may hold that time, but not necessarily the next time.
September 24, 2024, 11:25 AM
kkina
Decided to go with this. I connect my two leads to the two clamp-plate bolts. Working well.
That design has long term problems as well. You are way better off with one with a post and crimped ends on your cables sized correctly for the new post.
“So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.”