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W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted
I have a decent router, a 1.25HP Dewalt DWP611, for my small CNC router setup but I'm looking to add a table router to my shop and I plan to mount the router permanently under the table.

Most everything I'll make will be 3/4" ply and I'll mostly use the router to round over the edges. So what HP rating should I be looking for? I see between 1 and 3 HP with prices to match.
 
Posts: 45800 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of maladat
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For a router table, just go big, no reason not to (aside from the cost... but router motors aren't that expensive).

The Porter Cable 7518 is the router table standard. If you already have a lift, you can buy just the motor without the base.

https://www.portercable.com/pr...ter-model-7518/75182

With what you're planning right now, a less powerful router might be fine, but you never know when you next project might benefit from more oomph.
 
Posts: 6320 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
For a router table, just go big, no reason not to (aside from the cost... but router motors aren't that expensive).

The Porter Cable 7518 is the router table standard. If you already have a lift, you can buy just the motor without the base.

https://www.portercable.com/pr...ter-model-7518/75182

With what you're planning right now, a less powerful router might be fine, but you never know when you next project might benefit from more oomph.
Thanks. It's a bit spendy but I'll make good use of it.

I do not have a lift. What do I need to mount it under a table? Should I just get one with a base? It's $25 more for the one with the base.
 
Posts: 45800 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of maladat
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A router lift is basically a router base that is designed to mount a router motor upside down under a table, with some provision for easily adjusting depth of cut from above the table.

You can get a fixed-base (as opposed to plunge) router and just screw the base onto the underside of the table, and it will work perfectly fine as far as making cuts goes, but it can be a pain in the ass to adjust the height - because you have to get under the table and mess with the base.

As an example, here's a lift from JessEm, which makes some of the best router tables and router lifts (but also some of the more expensive ones).

https://jessem.com/collections...rout-r-lift-ii-model

You adjust the depth of cut by sticking the crank handle thing in the little black dial thing on the top plate and cranking it.
 
Posts: 6320 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
quarter MOA visionary
Picture of smschulz
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Those lifts are great.
Got a Kreg table with their EZ lift for Christmas from the wife.
Love how easy it makes changing bits and adjusting depths.
 
Posts: 23502 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: June 11, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
goodheart
Picture of sjtill
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I agree you will definitely want a lift, if you want to have precise control over the height of the router, and easy changing of bits (and you do, believe me).


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Posts: 18750 | Location: One hop from Paradise | Registered: July 27, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Optimistic Cynic
Picture of architect
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I have the little Bosch table. It is OK, and certainly cheap enough, but I'm sure there are more substantial tables available.

I originally tried to use it with a plunge router I already owned (DeWalt), but abandoned that effort and bought a fixed base Porter Cable which has been OK for the limited uses I put to it (board edge shaping etc.). I would not want to use this combo for making moldings, or dovetails, etc. Insufficient power and alignment trueness.
 
Posts: 7040 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
A router lift is basically a router base that is designed to mount a router motor upside down under a table, with some provision for easily adjusting depth of cut from above the table.

You can get a fixed-base (as opposed to plunge) router and just screw the base onto the underside of the table, and it will work perfectly fine as far as making cuts goes, but it can be a pain in the ass to adjust the height - because you have to get under the table and mess with the base.

As an example, here's a lift from JessEm, which makes some of the best router tables and router lifts (but also some of the more expensive ones).

https://jessem.com/collections...rout-r-lift-ii-model

You adjust the depth of cut by sticking the crank handle thing in the little black dial thing on the top plate and cranking it.
Nice, thank you. We're up to $500 though. I see Bosch has a lift and 2.25HP router for around $200. That may be more my speed.
 
Posts: 45800 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Porter Cable on the motor and JessEm or Incra on the lift. I have mine mounted in a Bench Dog cast iron table saw extension.
 
Posts: 9153 | Location: The Red part of Minnesota | Registered: October 06, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of maladat
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quote:
Originally posted by mark123:
quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
A router lift is basically a router base that is designed to mount a router motor upside down under a table, with some provision for easily adjusting depth of cut from above the table.

You can get a fixed-base (as opposed to plunge) router and just screw the base onto the underside of the table, and it will work perfectly fine as far as making cuts goes, but it can be a pain in the ass to adjust the height - because you have to get under the table and mess with the base.

As an example, here's a lift from JessEm, which makes some of the best router tables and router lifts (but also some of the more expensive ones).

https://jessem.com/collections...rout-r-lift-ii-model

You adjust the depth of cut by sticking the crank handle thing in the little black dial thing on the top plate and cranking it.
Nice, thank you. We're up to $500 though. I see Bosch has a lift and 2.25HP router for around $200. That may be more my speed.


The Bosch 1617 router is also a great router and you really aren't giving a lot up to the bigger PC 7518 unless you're trying to do stuff that really ought to be done on a shaper instead of a router table. I have a PC 7518 motor in my router table and a Bosch 1617 fixed/plunge kit for handheld routing. Both really good tools.

I don't have any experience with the Bosch lift but I am sure it works fine, Bosch makes good stuff.
 
Posts: 6320 | Location: CA | Registered: January 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
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Thanks for the tips!
 
Posts: 45800 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of bigdeal
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Come On Man! If all you're going to rout are round overs and chamfers, any basic 1.5hp router will do the job. Now if you opt to do dados or dovetails, then I'd opt for more power.

quote:
Originally posted by maladat:
The Porter Cable 7518 is the router table standard.
That's only 'one' of the standards. I'll raise your PC 7518 with my two Hitachi M12V's. Try running one of these bad boys freehand. Razz



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Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter
 
Posts: 33845 | Location: Orlando, FL | Registered: April 30, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For a table, you want a big (3hp) variable speed with soft start. I prefer a plunge with screw adjust for setting cut height.
 
Posts: 1123 | Location: New Jersey | Registered: August 16, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have an old Woodpecker PRL V1 lift in my table, but whatever lift you decide on, it's also very nice to have a digital readout for bit height changes. A couple of tapped holes in my lift let me install an igaging Absolute DRO Plus (6" of total travel) that makes height changes easy to measure. That's another $55 however!
 
Posts: 1255 | Location: NE Indiana  | Registered: January 20, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
goodheart
Picture of sjtill
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Poor Mark! We’re all trying to get him to spend his money on something he doesn’t really need....that’s what we do here, isn’t it? Big Grin

Let’s see...Festool 1400 router $600...Festool router table set with sliding table $1800...Incra LS positioning Super System $450.... Eek


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Posts: 18750 | Location: One hop from Paradise | Registered: July 27, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I purchased a Makita 3-1/4 HP several years ago and mounted it into a home-built router table. It has its own lift mechanism and enough power to run full-size raised-panel cutters. It can use both 1/2" and 1/4" diameter shank cutters.

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/RP2301FC
 
Posts: 312 | Location: Ohio | Registered: January 04, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I just bought a Bosch 1617 router to mount on my Kreg table. The Bosch comes with a special wrench that is used to adjust the height of the bit from above the table. A "poor man's" router lift. I havent gotten it mounted yet, but I am going to try that first. May be a little slow but it sure beats the alternative. You can always but the lift later if you want.

If you want a bigger router, the PC 7518 is a good choice. You cant adjust it from the top by itself like the Bosch, but you can get one of these for under $100.

http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm
 
Posts: 649 | Registered: September 30, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
W07VH5
Picture of mark123
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by ranger312:
I just bought a Bosch 1617 router to mount on my Kreg table. The Bosch comes with a special wrench that is used to adjust the height of the bit from above the table. A "poor man's" router lift. I havent gotten it mounted yet, but I am going to try that first. May be a little slow but it sure beats the alternative. You can always but the lift later if you want.

If you want a bigger router, the PC 7518 is a good choice. You cant adjust it from the top by itself like the Bosch, but you can get one of these for under $100.

http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm


Now you're speaking my language. Big Grin

Bosch 1617EVSTB 2-1/4 HP Router and Table Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007..._api_i_t3nECb5JADXA1
 
Posts: 45800 | Location: Pennsyltucky | Registered: December 05, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of ShouldBFishin
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EDITED: Not enough coffee this morning - I misread what you were looking for (a router, not a router table).

Are you going to make a router table w/ your CNC machine?


I've been pretty happy with the router table top I bought at Rockler several years ago. At the time I bought it, it came as a kit with accessories and a plate for the router.

I'm not seeing that kit on their website anymore, but they do have the pieces. Router Table Top.


You could make a router table top with your CNC (not sure how laminate would cut) and some T-track and a base. Smile


My Porter Cable router came with a plunger base and a fixed base. I don't have a lift. When I built the cabinet for the router table I left the front open so I could adjust the router. A lift would be convenient, but it's not a requirement for me.
 
Posts: 1836 | Location: MN | Registered: March 29, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Caught in a loop
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I've seen and heard great things about Triton, both router and table. I've wanted one of their plunge routers for a while, but other needs have always gotten in the way.


"In order to understand recursion, you must first learn the principle of recursion."
 
Posts: 3393 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: August 23, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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