I thought I would start a new post as I didn’t want to take away from gpbst3’s thread.

I don’t have the money to do things like I used to. I have been told twice now by two different shops that I need to have the pitman arm and idler arm replaced on my truck. The quote I have been given is from $700-$1K.

My truck is a 2002 Chevy Silverado Z-71 1500 with around 120,000 miles on it. Neither shop have said anything about shocks or struts. I can feel vibrations in the steering wheel at or above around 60 MPH. I assume this has to do with the pitman and idler arm.

Does anyone think I do and only need to do the pitman and idler arm, or should I do more when getting it done? I want to keep this truck for at least 5 more years while I save up for a good down payment on the next truck I want.

If you can get it up on a lift/jack stands, you can check the linkage for loosening at the joints. (the worn parts of the links cause the shimmy, as each wheel/tire tries to "center itself" (castoring) and each are getting different inputs from the road imperfections), and it happens rapidly, hence the shimmy.

Changing the pitman arm and the idler are not that difficult.

While you don't have to have an air wrench to remove the pitman arm nut from the steering gearbox, it makes it much easier.

Then use the arm puller to remove the arm.

The ball joint ends can be knocked loose with a pickle fork and a crack hammer (2-3 lb). And a torque wrench for the ball joints (about 85 ft lbs.)

Cost of the parts, tools and or rental (except the air hammer/compressor) is around $100.

You can rent an compressor, the socket and an air wrench for a day for around $100.

You could do it in about an hour. (not counting running down the parts and tools)

Thanks SigMonkey. I have a good compressor and would probably just need to buy parts and rent or buy a good air wrench as the one I have is crap. If I find good information on how to do it myself then I should be able to.

I just did mine ,GMC k1500_the idler arm pretty easy, the pitman arm I had to remove the steering box to get puller on pitman arm. I did'nt need to loosen or remove any ball joints. Also autozone & O'Reilly have free tool rental for puller. I think Moog has the best front end parts.

quote:

Originally posted by Greymann:
I just did mine ,GMC k1500_the idler arm pretty easy, the pitman arm I had to remove the steering box to get puller on pitman arm. I did'nt need to loosen or remove any ball joints. Also autozone & O'Reilly have free tool rental for puller. I think Moog has the best front end parts.

Did you use any Manuel to assist you in the job? I would LOVE to do it myself for around $300 instead of paying a mechanic $700-$1K.

quote:

Does anyone think I do and only need to do the pitman and idler arm, or should I do more when getting it done?

Pitman and idler arms are common on this generation of GM truck. Jack it up so the wheels hang free, grasp the tires at 9 and 3 o'clock and shake them. A helper is useful here so you can see the movement, if any. This will also check the tie rod ends, another, less common, problem. To check the ball joints (the lower on the 4wd is difficult to grease and tends to wear), take your jack, this time putting it under the lower control arm, raise it so the tire is an inch or two off the ground, put a pry bar between the ground and the tire and lever it up and down. A little up & down play in the lower is OK, crashing and banging or moving side to side is bad. The upper should not move at all in any direction. I have never seen a bad control arm bushing on one of these trucks, but check them anyway.

Pulling the pitman arm off the steering box requires that you take the box off, a puller (you can rent or borrow this) and a 1 5/16" socket. There are a couple of pullers available that let you leave the box on, but the one I have doesn't work that well (there is no 15/16" wrench long enough to turn it) and the other one costs nearly $200. The studs are very difficult to separate from the center link with a pickle fork/hammer. There is a puller for this, the one circled:



It might also be available for rent. And to get the lines off the steering box you will want a flare nut wrench. IIRC they are 16 (or 5/8") and 18mm.

quote:

I can feel vibrations in the steering wheel at or above around 60 MPH. I assume this has to do with the pitman and idler arm.

It does, partially, but you should also check the tires for imbalance and roundness.

If you pay the postage, about $30 roundtrip, I'll lend you a puller.

If this issue hasn't been addressed quickly enough, it could result in needing a tire (possibly two) and could potentially cause increased wear on shock/strut.

Change it, get it aligned, and reassess. Then R&R the tire (s). Reassess and if needed target shock/strut.

The power steering box has to be removed as there is no clearance for a puller from the frame.

Thank you for all the info; I really appreciate it! I JUST put brand new tires on it so it would pass inspection so now is probably the time to do it.

Advance and Autozone have pullers to rent for free. You leave a deposit and get it back when you bring it back!

I don't think a manual is needed. Once you have the new parts in hand you will see what needs to be done. Generally changing these two parts will take out about 90 percent of the play. I do think it will take more than an hour so don't knock yourself out if you go beyond that.

Jim

Most ball joints can be removed without a puller. Hit very hard the side of the joint, and the vibration will loosen it.

quote:

Originally posted by StorminNormin:

quote:

Originally posted by Greymann:
I just did mine ,GMC k1500_the idler arm pretty easy, the pitman arm I had to remove the steering box to get puller on pitman arm. I did'nt need to loosen or remove any ball joints. Also autozone & O'Reilly have free tool rental for puller. I think Moog has the best front end parts.

Did you use any Manuel to assist you in the job? I would LOVE to do it myself for around $300 instead of paying a mechanic $700-$1K.

If you need a manual go to autozone.com and register then go to "repair help" and they have car/truck Chilton manual online free to use...but I know the nut for pitman arm is pretty big make sure you have that size....

FYI the pitman arm can go on steering box four different positions so mark relationship before removing. Don't loosen or tighten with steering box at either end of its travel, there is stops in steering box not for using force against.... If you need any further information E-mail me....

Just do a search on Youtube, I am sure you will find at least one video on there doing exactly what you need to do. I will search a couple of weeks ahead for write ups online and find videos. Once I have watched them a few times and have the procedure down in my head I get the tools I need and do the job.

I have watched some videos on how to replace both the pitman and idler arm. I have a lot of tools, but they are only the basic tools and not larger size ones, long extensions, or ones that can remove a bolt at an angle. I think I can do it IF I have all of the right tools. I plan to make a list and see what I can borrow or rent from local automotive stores.

NAPA also had loan/rental tools. Sometimes those others don't have.

Where you at in Texas? If you’re in the Houston area I can lend you the few that I have.

quote:

Originally posted by mrvmax:
Where you at in Texas? If you’re in the Houston area I can lend you the few that I have.

I am in Austin.