The AC in my 2000 GS300 doesn't work - it blows air but it's minimally cool, almost ambient. Although it still somewhat functions because it will still dehumidify (ie - prevent fogged windows).

I want cool air in the summer though. I've been reading and sounds like AC issues can be expensive to fix and even troubleshoot. But it also sounds like if all else is working but just no cool air, it's likely a leak somewhere.

So, I'm wondering. Should I just have the AC recharged? And if it lasts a season or two, great. If not, then there is a definite leak. And then try to find the leak at that point?

Or should I just have the shop try to find the leak from the get go, then assess whether to fix or not or to just recharge?

I'm thinking about just recharging for now - no troubleshooting.

Should I do something more at this point?

Go to the local auto parts store and pick up a recharge kit and see what you get out of it. Its worth giving it a try before taking it to a shop.

"Cool"

Okay, thanks!

Yep, try the recharge kit first. I picked up one that had the gauge and connectors for around $30 for my old chevy pickup. Worked good and still blowing cold 5 years later.

Yep. Recharge kit is cheap troubleshooting.

If it lasts a couple days/months, you know you have a big leak, and it's worth looking into have it tracked down and fixed.

If it lasts a couple years, you know you have a slow leak, and it's probably just worth recharging every so often until you sell it.

What he said

As above. A lot depends on whether you live in the Deep South. They have dye to run through the system to find leaks. Compressors are expensive, refrigerant not so much. I drove a car without air all summer in the Deep south. I was younger then and more tolerant. Still it was miserable.

I need to do this also, my A/C is marginal if it gets hotter. I found this, Interdynamics A/C Pro Ultra Synthetic A/C Recharge R-134a (20 Ounces)

There is a short video there, too. Almost looks too easy.

If it dehumidifies ok but isn't cold, then it could be that the A/C is fine, but the blend air door is not. Check that the blend air door is working ok before tearing into the A/C.

It wouldn't be able to dehumidify if it wasn't getting cold at the evaporator.

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
If it dehumidifies ok but isn't cold, then it could be that the A/C is fine, but the blend air door is not. Check that the blend air door is working ok before tearing into the A/C.

It wouldn't be able to dehumidify if it wasn't getting cold at the evaporator.

I had one of those fail intermittently, it sucked I'd be driving down the road, everything OK then the heat would turn on out of no where.

Ok. Will try recharge first. If more troubleshooting needed, will have them look at the door first.

Thanks guys!

Similar issues with my 04 Silverado. Did the cheap recharge kit with gauge. System was full. Blend doors were sticky.

I live in the south where it’s hot 9 months out of the year and I drive older, used cars. Several years ago I bought a vacuum pump, UV light, dye, 134, oring kits and gauges so I could do my own ac work. I also spent hours reading and studying auto ac’s. It’s been a worthwhile investment, I’ve converted one car from r12 to 134, replace driers, replaced evaporators, replaced orifice tubes, replaced schraeder valves, replaced orings and replaced compressors (I’ve even rebuilt one compressor).

All that being said, if it will accept a charge do it - just DO NOT use the refrigerant with sealant since some can plug up things you don’t want plugged and make repairs more difficult and expensive.

Scotty Kilmer on youtube! Then as others have suggested. Sounds like a recharge issue!

I'd wait to see if the brakes keep working before fixing the a/c....

Good luck.

I just fixed my college-aged son's AC in my former car, a Mazda 3 with black leather interior. He's a tough kid and has worked outside every summer for the past 5-6 years, and was a baseball catcher almost his entire life, including little league all star teams and summer wood bat league... So he's pretty good with heat. But the system was rattling even pushing air and made the engine sound terrible.

New compressor (totally shot), fan belts, and refrigerant. $1200, and I shopped around.

Look up a YouTube video on how to add Freon to your car's AC, it's not hard at all.

You sound like youre out of Freon.

Thanks guys.

Seems like adding freon is easy but I'm concerned about the reports of inaccurate gauges and adding too much or too little and causing more issues. If that's possible, given my luck, that's where I would end up.

I have the shop looking at it - they said they would evacuate and see how much coolant was in the system. Then add coolant to spec and test.

George - I should have updated the other thread. Brake system on the ES checked out okay with 30% pad life left (about 1 year). Flushed out the old fluid and replaced w/ factory. Brakes seem like new now. Pedal pressure and modulate is great again. The fluid was definitely not up to par I guess.

Shop evacuated and found insufficient coolant. Didn't find any leaks but did find some damage to the condenser (likely rock damage through front grill).

Filled with coolant - nice and cold now. They said it's blowing down to 40 degrees now (previously was blowing 70 degrees or basically ambient).

Flushed the brakes with DOT4. Car is running well for the summer now

quote:

Shop evacuated and found insufficient coolant.

Good. I don't like those "grenades" sold by auto parts chains. Yes, the majority of the time the refrigerant is low. But if it isn't, and there is some other problem preventing cooling, an 11- or 12-oz. "grenade" will leave you with an overcharged - possibly severely overcharged - system. Most A/C systems these days hold 1.5 lbs. or less, some less than one pound. It doesn't take much to overcharge them.

Most any car 2000 MY or later has had dye added. Did they look it over with a UV light? If the leak is in the evaporator core, it gets a little more difficult, but there are still ways.