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safe & sound |
I have some double pane windows, in a vehicle, that I wish to black out or black out a portion. The portions I wish to black out are accessible now, but will eventually be covered from within, and become permanently inaccessible. For this reason, I want something that would ideally last forever, or at least as long as possible, without peeling, cracking, or otherwise looking bad. What say you? Some options that I have considered would be black vinyl (most likely to be the first to have problems), a high-quality ceramic window tint, mirror paint, or black paint. If using paint I want to ensure it is something that will adhere well to glass on its own. I will be doing this from inside, so if a primer was necessary that would be the color visible from outside. | ||
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Lost |
Those paint + primer products, such as from Rustoleum, will work on glass. | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
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Member |
Limo tint. 10% transmission or so. Simple task for a reputable tinting shop. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
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Caught in a loop |
Automotive tint on a house window is a recipe for cracked glass. Auto tint shrinks with heat to better conform to curved glass panels. Definitely tint, but use the appropriate product. A tint shop will probably tell you the same thing, only with authority and the number to a home tinter if they don't offer that as a service. "In order to understand recursion, you must first learn the principle of recursion." | |||
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Member |
^ From the OP, this is in a vehicle, not a residential window. The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Member |
What about etching them opaque? Do they have to be black? Etching paste would make them non see through. | |||
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Member |
You cannot use automobile tint on a double pane window. The tint will eventually crack the glass or the seal. You need a residential grade tint. There is something about the way the tint reflects heat. | |||
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Alea iacta est |
Flat black spray paint on the inside, will give a gloss black appearance on the outside. Completely blacks out the windows, you cannot see anything through them. While rust oleum will work, if you can find MTN or Montana paint (comes from Spain), I highly recommend that. It’s an incredibly high quality rattle can paint, had the best adhesion I have ever had from a rattle can. Coats evenly and well, and is just a fantastic product. Far superior to any other rattle can paint I have ever used. I prefer the Montana Hardcore, but the MTN Pro is pretty awesome as well. https://www.montanacolors.com/...dcore-paint-aerosol/ https://www.montanacolors.com/en/spray/mtn-pro/ The “lol” thread | |||
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Member |
Any chance of just taking some 1/4" luan or masonite and painting it black and placing inside the window frame? | |||
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Member |
Possibly FlexSeal, black liquid rubber in a spray can? | |||
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Smarter than the average bear |
I think the right paint has the best chance of staying forever. But I suggest you also consider a black film from the outside. Paint protection films are designed for exterior use and last pretty well, with the bonus of being able to be replaced if necessary. | |||
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Member |
Temperature changes through a vehicle window are likely to be fairly extreme over the years (winter, summer, solar illumination vs. night, etc.). Would a thin sheet of metal (aluminum, stainless, ?) that’s cut to fit and powder coated with your favorite color on the glass side withstand that environment better than rattle can paint? Just trying to think of a way to minimize the heat load right at the glass. | |||
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Member |
Not sure on longevity, but maybe something like Plastidip? Could be later removable if that's any concern. The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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semi-reformed sailor |
My dad was selling our home that had a an adjoining acre and trailer home . He added some clapboard siding which included and extra window(but didn’t go into the structure) to the trailer to make it look pretty. He spray painted the glass black with rustoleum and added drapes pinned back. Looked great from the outside. And the trailer was there for six or seven years before he buyer built a custom home and tore down or crushed the trailer "Violence, naked force, has settled more issues in history than has any other factor.” Robert A. Heinlein “You may beat me, but you will never win.” sigmonkey-2020 “A single round of buckshot to the torso almost always results in an immediate change of behavior.” Chris Baker | |||
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Thank you Very little |
There is blackout film as an option have a pro do a good limo/blackout tint. or, Instead of painting, make blackout panels, it's what a lot of folks do for camping | |||
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Member |
Remember, even though he said this is a vehicle window its not the same as auto glass, it’s a double pane window. I would be concerned with the vast temp changes a vehicle will have compared to a house. It might be helpful to know if this is a van window, part of a truck capper, etc. | |||
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Eating elephants one bite at a time |
Is removal a possibility? You mention inaccessibility in the future. If inaccessible, how difficult will replacement be? If replacement won't be feasible perhaps removal is the best permanent solution? | |||
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Member |
I used black Rustoleum to spray the inside of my garage door glass and it lasted over 25 years with out cracking or peeling. | |||
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safe & sound |
Thank you for all of the replies so far.
One of my buddies suggested some black aluminum skin like they use on enclosed trailers. My concern with that is that it would get wavy like it does on trailers after going through expansion and contraction due to temps. Something thicker would probably withstand this better, and weight isn't really a concern. Might be worth looking into something heavier duty.
I have a window tinting company that I have used in the past that does great work. He said that even his highest end ceramics would eventually fail at some point. Which is when this came up:
We could always tint (or do something else) now, and if that failed simply cover it from the outside at that point. We didn't want to go this route initially because it will slightly alter the appearance I'm attempting to maintain, and wouldn't last as long as some of the other options initially.
This was the way I was leaning as it is fast, inexpensive, and lasting. What I don't know is if this would have the same effect on the glass as tinting and cause seal issues.
They will be bus windows. Large, double pane, some close to 48" long and 36" tall. Replacement would be expensive, so I'm crossing my fingers and hoping that they would never need replacement. They appear to be installed very similar to windshields, where there is trim on the exterior, and a urethane holding them in place. So maybe they could be replaced from the exterior only? There will be several that will be completely inaccessible (without a ton of demolition work) in the future. They will have steel walls blocking them which will be welded to the structure of the vehicle. | |||
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