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Three Generations of Service |
Inexpensive, under $1000. Maximum I'd be cutting routinely would be 1/4 black iron. Rarely, if ever, up to 1/2" I have plenty of options for cutting angle or tubing, but I'm going through a small fortune in slitting disks cutting plate that won't fit under a chop saw. Be nice to be able to cut 2-3 foot sections of 3/16 or 1/4 black iron plate. Handy for the occasional odd shape as well. Used a Hypertherm when I worked at the cannery. I seem to recall they're sensitive to air quality. No future in spending $750 on a cutter if I have to spend that much again on an air dryer. Suggestions? Opinions? Smart-ass remarks? Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | ||
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Partial dichotomy |
I'm far from an expert, but the one I've used would have a hard time cutting through steel that thick. I'm sure there are heavier models. Have you thought about getting a small set of tanks and cutting with oxy-aceteline? Then you'd have the option of gas welding, brazing and silver soldering. | |||
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Cruising the Highway to Hell |
I'm no expert, but have a neighbor down the road that bought the $750.00 hobart unit from Northern tool and took it back as it struggled with 1/4 inch material. came home with the $1500.00 unit and loves it. “Government exists to protect us from each other. Where government has gone beyond its limits is in deciding to protect us from ourselves.” ― Ronald Reagan Retired old fart | |||
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Three Generations of Service |
I have a full-sized set of tanks for heavy cutting. For some reason, I can't seem to master the art of making a clean cut in plate tho. Ragged, slaggy and crude, yes. Good point tho, might make more sense to invest in a better torch and learn to cut better. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Avoiding slam fires |
old people problem,I'm there,but simple solution is to clamp a straight edge to material. Adjust the torch to fine feather with sound raising hell. Make sure all the holes are clean,if it popped the last time you used it it has blockage and need rodded out with tip cleaner. Use what you got,if you are like me ,the kids have no interest in our shit and will do a fire sale upon our demise | |||
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Move Up or Move Over |
I had one back in my jeeping days. As I built the jeep into ever more hardcore versions I started using up roll bars. After using torches and saws etc I borrowed a plasma cutter from work. The difference in quality and time was substantial. I like making a better looking product in less time. Once we finish our house at the farm I'm going to buy one for the shop. I'm so stoked about having a shop again I can't stand it. There is a Hobart 40i in my near future... | |||
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Three Generations of Service |
Amazon has them for under $1500. I'm salivating... Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Member |
If you're just cutting squares, rectangle or circles then oxy/ace will be your best option. Clamp straight edge to work, use clean tip and set your gases to proper pressure, use a neutral flame at tip and you will cut as clean as a plasma. Now if you are going to cut intricate shapes then plasma will be better. Most plasma machine are rated at edge start which means you have to start on the edge to start your cut. If you need to start your cut in the middle of 1/2" plate you are going to need larger machine. Plasma leaves doss (slag) also | |||
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Member |
Do you have a high voltage line? Ours is 240/120 but you can barely cut thin gauge steel (think shim stock) on 120v. ------------------------------------ My books on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/William-...id=1383531982&sr=8-1 email if you'd like auto'd copies. | |||
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Member |
hypertherm, anything else is truly silly. You don't need big money on a dryer. All plasma cutters need good air, there is nothing special about any model in that regard. Hypertherm also offer a model (above your budget with built in air). The smallest plasma will do what you need. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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Member |
I do not have any idea about brand names or cost. I worked at a powerhouse a few years ago. They had a plasma cutter and a track set-up. We converted a 4'x 8'x 1" thick stainless steel plate into a whole bunch of 4" x 4"x 1" plates with the plasma cutter. We also had a big industrial air compressor. Air pressure and travel speed and the right nozzle/tip on the cutter are very important. But I am sure if you have the money, there is not much you can't get cut with a plasma cutter. | |||
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Member |
I have had my XL50 for over 8 years and it does a good job. The consumables are your largest ongoing expense as the tips are pretty high IMHO. There are two types of tips; a standard tip that you use like an Oxy/Act torch that is held above the metal being cut, and the the "Drag" tip that is resting on the metal as you cut. Useful for cutting along a straight edge or free hand. Very important to keep a good tip in the torch or you will get a ragged sloppy cut. Good luck on your search for an unit for your shop. ****************************************************W5SCM "We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the courts, not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who pervert the Constitution" - Abraham Lincoln "I have been driven many times upon my knees by the overwhelming conviction that I had nowhere else to go" - Abraham Lincoln | |||
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Member |
Get a hypertherm. They are pretty much the industry standard and I do believe they have models for around a grand. If not get a used one. Every welding job I've had they always have hypertherm. I went the cheap route when I got mine and I regret it. And don't buy a Hobart anything... it's all Chinese harbor freight level junk these days | |||
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