I think you'll find it's the culprit

I second the AGM battery, from any of the local auto parts stores... Call around for the cheapest price, they are usually pretty close.

I don't have a Harley but just had a similar issue with my Triumph. Come to find out it was a regulator in the alternator. Would have cost me over $800 for the new Triumph part plus the very long wait time that I have come to expect of Triumph, but luckily, I have an "extra" parts bike & my mechanic was able to use the 1 on the parts bike.

This is probably not the case but have you cleaned the battery posts and inside of th post clamps? I had a similar issue with an older HD and it would corrode in those ares but not visibly. Cleaned everything up, coated with lithium grease and things got much better.And yes, I have had the solenoid go bad also which did things close to what you are describing. After replacement, took solenoid apart and the "washer" that closes the contacts was very charred up.

Load test battery per suggestions. Slow charge it before you take it to have it tested, a good state of charge is necessary for an accurate test.
Pop the starter button housing and check for frayed/intermittent shorting wires.
Test charging system per factory service manual. I don't trust Clymers, Chilton, ect.
Look closely at the stator plug on the engine case. Fully inserted, no loose pins or corrosion.
If all this is good, pull the solenoid off and disassemble for a look-see.

Prior to this episode of fun and games, was any wrenches laid on her? Might double check there.
Nice ride.

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:
My bet is the battery isn't holding charge, it's showing correct volts but doesn't have the CCA to start the bike, everything else, relays, switches position of the moon have nothing to do with it.

My guess as well. Bikes need to be kept on a trickle charger.

12.6 volts is almost a fully charged battery after the surface charge has been removed, or has set idle for 24 hours after being charged.

Hook your meter to the battery and read the voltage as the engine is being cranked, if the voltage drops below 9 volts, the battery is likely weak.

If the voltage doesn't drop that much while cranking, and the clicking is all you hear , then the starter needs to be looked at.

Got back from my RV trip and went to Autozone.
Battery tested a full charge but registered as a bad battery when load tested.
So I up graded to the AGM battery vs the lead acid ones Harley installs.
It had 12.3v out of the box but I hooked it up to the tender.
So I installed it & it started right up.
I'll let it sit over night on the tender.

Now begins the hunting & testing to find out what killed my last two batteries prematurely.

Well, fresh battery started at 13.4v
After start up it was charging / returning at 14.1v
So, what can I take from this?
Am I wrong to deduce that the stator & regulator is functioning properly?

Next step suggestions?!?

Go over all of your connections. Look at your wiring closely. Especially where it may be rubbing on anything. Like those damn band clamps.

Did you do anything to the bike prior to taking it in the $$$$$$$shop$$$$$$$ ?

Add anything new?
Remove something recently?

Look at the switches. Are any of them showing wear. Listen to how they sound when you toggle them. Do they feel or sound different?

I think you have a short and it sounds like its intermittent which is of course the worse kind.

Hope you find it. Just take your time and work through it. Hang in there and good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by GrumpyBiker:

Next step suggestions?!?

Since everything seems to be working correctly now, only thing to check would be for any draw when the bike is off.

I'm a big believer in battery tenders for rec vehicles that sit for periods of time, 1 week, months, whatever. For me that includes motorcycles, an ATV, and a snowmobile.

I may not leave it plugged in all the time, just rotate among machines. I also like the AGM batteries from Deka at East Penn.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:

quote:

Originally posted by GrumpyBiker:

Next step suggestions?!?

Since everything seems to be working correctly now, only thing to check would be for any draw when the bike is off.

How do you recommend to test for that ?

quote:

Originally posted by GrumpyBiker:

How do you recommend to test for that ?

If your DVM has a DC Amps mode, shut the bike down, disconnect the ground lead at the battery and connect the DVM between the negative terminal of the battery and the ground lead.

If you have "stay alive" stuff (clocks, LCD instrument panel, that sort of thing) you may see a small draw, measured in milliamps. Ideally, you should see no draw at all with the bike shut down and the key turned off.

This is a link on how to tech out the HD charging system with some hand tools and a meter... Straight forward stuff you can do.

http://blog.jpcycles.com/step-...eys-charging-system/

There is always going to be a little draw with security systems or ECM's that draw power.

Your best bet is to install a Battery Tender with the pigtail so it's an easy hook up to monitor the battery health it's not a trickle charger, it's got a bit of brains built in..

http://www.batterytender.com/

quote:

Originally posted by GrumpyBiker:

How do you recommend to test for that ?

As Paul posted. Bike off, turn off all accessories, disconnect either (positive or negative) battery cable and insert DC amp meter in series. Measuring for any current. If present, try to locate what is pulling it. If you have inline fuses, pull them one at a time to see if that circuit is the one pulling current.

Unhook everything possible until you locate the source.

Vehicle electrical issues have always been a stumble thru thing for me.
So I appreciate the advice & help.