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Member |
I’m about to do a drain and fill on my wife’s 2012 Honda Odyssey. Should I use Honda fluid or will what they sell at parts houses work? | |||
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Page late and a dollar short |
I would not do a chemical fluid flush on any of my vehicles. Maybe coincidence but it seemed that a decent percentage of those that had a flush at 75k and up were back in soon for transmission work. And I did see them as I worked in dealerships. Kind of coincidence also that all of these aftermarket flushes came on the market in the last twenty years about the same time that the recommended service intervals were extended by the auto manufacturers. -------------------------------------—————— ————————--Ignorance is a powerful tool if applied at the right time, even, usually, surpassing knowledge(E.J.Potter, A.K.A. The Michigan Madman) | |||
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That rug really tied the room together. |
I have 20 years on Honda cars at over 40k miles averaged per year. (Wife is district manager, drives all over Florida) On Honda cars, I always use the Honda ATF DW1 fluid, not aftermarket. Curry Acura out of NY did/has the best price on a case of ATF fluid delivered to the house. I drain and fill the fluid every 25k miles. It's incredibly easy to do, takes about 2.75 quarts, and takes 5 minutes. In fact it's easier than changing the engine oil. At least on a Honda, there is no excuse not to do a drop and fill ever so often. Never a transmission failure, even the high mileage cars still shifting perfectly. The drain plug has a magnet built into it and you'll be amazed how much metallic goo is stuck to it the first time you drain the ATF. ______________________________________________________ Often times a very small man can cast a very large shadow | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
Good timing. Over the past 2 days I did a trans flush with filter and a bunch of other items to my 2010 Tahoe. Upper & lower radiator hose, coolant drain and fill, main accessory belt, AC belt, front & rear differential fluid and transfer case. 8 spark plugs, flush brake lines and power steering pump is next week. I used this method for the transmission. | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
Definitely use Honda fluid! It is proprietary and it will make a difference. I know. | |||
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Stupid Allergy |
There’s a difference in a “flush” which can be under pressure and a “fluid exchange”...both are machines. The exchange is not under pressure and simply replaces all the ATF with fresh fluid. I’d never do anything “pressured”. I had an exchange type done on my 4Runner with Amsoil ATF recently. It’s got 184,000 miles on it. Pretty sure it was just the second time it had been done...maybe third. "Attack life, it's going to kill you anyway." Steve McQueen... | |||
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Member |
Honda and some other car makers recommend a drain and fill over a flush for exactly this reason! I went to an oil change place and the guy said I needed a transmission flush and I told him know and why. This guy was going to flush my transmission or die trying and I wound up leaving! | |||
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Just for the hell of it |
On a Honda use Honda/Acura DW-1 fluid. You can find some better pricing online often or call your local Honda or Acura dealer and see how their price compares. _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
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Member |
I think for those year Toyota truck transmissions, they're "lifetime" fluid and shouldn't be changed, according to the people who designed and engineered the transmission. That's the official answer for my 2005 Tacoma. But what do they know? | |||
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Member |
If it's a difficult chore or I'm feeling lazy I sometimes do the 3x3, it is way better than doing nothing, I figure Sometimes it's referred to as the turkey baster method on smaller things like brake master cylinders. I have this and can suck it out the cap or fill tube... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/pr..._image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I happen to be one suck out and replace into doing it to the power steering fluid on a 20 yr old truck I own as a first move to improve the sluggish power steering. If that easy cheap effort doesn't help then I will dig into it further. So far early results seem positive. For brake fluid and such I adhere to a 1 month schedule between each extraction for three months...as I was first taught to do it years ago. Collecting dust. | |||
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Lawyers, Guns and Money |
No... "lifetime" fluid is a popular misconception. It is a "sealed system" which really only means that there is no dipstick and it's hard to check the fluid level. It still has a drain plug and a fill plug. They say the WS fluid is good for 100,000 miles, but that's not "lifetime". Also, Toyota says if your doing any "severe" driving, like towing, to change it at 60,000 miles. Here's a detailed write up on a Tacoma. It's the same process as the 4Runner. The Tacoma and the 4Runner (at least mine) both have the 4.0L V6 https://www.tacomaworld.com/th...-transmission.68462/ "Some things are apparent. Where government moves in, community retreats, civil society disintegrates and our ability to control our own destiny atrophies. The result is: families under siege; war in the streets; unapologetic expropriation of property; the precipitous decline of the rule of law; the rapid rise of corruption; the loss of civility and the triumph of deceit. The result is a debased, debauched culture which finds moral depravity entertaining and virtue contemptible." -- Justice Janice Rogers Brown "The United States government is the largest criminal enterprise on earth." -rduckwor | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
If I was doing it myself, that's the way I'd do it. For three years I did 3x3 in an '00 Acura TL. The 2nd gear clutch plate disintegrated in those models and the only "fix" (until the transmission failed) was to keep the fluid clean. So I did 3x3 every 25k or 30k. A Subie customer shop tried telling me my '08 Impreza needed 5.5 quarts on a D/F. so he overfilled it, naturally. But I have done 3x2 for that car as well (it may be 3.8 qts but it is hard getting accurate info). It rather was amazing. The first change at 105k. As was finally changing the cabin air filter. | |||
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Member |
For those that flush, or just drain and refill. Why would you run clean fluid through a dirty filter? My own personal practice and in any shop I ever worked in, drain, replace filter and refill was standard practice. Those shops were almost all GM dealers. ___________________________________________________________ Your right to swing your fist stops just short of the other person's nose... | |||
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Ammoholic |
It's super simple. Follow manual instructions. Flush is ALWAYS bad if the fluid is black and smells bad. Change is safer, especially if you don't change it all, that way you keep some of the metal pieces that keep the internal clutches with some grip when they are worn. The short answer is follow directions and don't exceed intervals. If you are going to flush do it at schedule or before. Otherwise don't replace all fluid. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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Member |
Do not flush your engine. Do not flush your transmission. Drain and replace. Transmission fluid does not go bad. Unlike an engine, the transmission fluid doesn't break down thermally, or chemically, and most importantly, it doesn't get acidic and wash acids off cylinder walls or develop condensation from washdown on the case walls, or accumulate it. The tranmission can be damaged by overservice, underservice, or introduction of foreign material, or adjustment. If you have a magnet and it shows more than fuzz, you're looking at a replacement in the near future, and if you show fuzz, you're normal and need only replace the filter. flushing won't get you mileage and neither will adding a little and running, adding a little and running, etc. It's been enough of a problem that Dodge began removing the dipstick and filler pipe on transmissions and replacement transmissions, to prevent customers from adding fluid or even checking it. Overservicing and shadetree work did more damage than any issues with fluid. Drain and replace, and toss in a new filter while you're there, if you must. Your transmission may very well be one of those things that if not broke, don't fix. | |||
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H.O.F.I.S |
You have no idea what you are talking about. Me and my 45 years in the transmission repair industry say so. "I'm sorry, did I break your concentration"? | |||
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Member |
100% true statement. I had a Jiffy Lube change my tranny fluid on my 2007 Accord, the car shifted really hard right after the change. I went to the local Honda dealership and bought the real deal. After draining and replacing the fluid the car worked like a charm. | |||
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Member |
I haven't met many honest transmission repairmen, so this doesn't surprise me. I haven't met a single one, now that I think about it. Transmission shops love to sell transmission flushes. They love to sell transmissions, too. Funny, that. | |||
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Shit don't mean shit |
I agree with bubba on this one. I don't have near the amount of experience he does, but I worked as a mechanic for a few years out of highs school while going to college. On my 2010 Tahoe that I worked on this weekend, the transmission fluid (Dexron VI) in the transfer case was black. It literally looked like motor oil with 10k miles on it. Rub it between your fingers and you can tell it's broken down. I know it's anecdotal, but my last vehicle, a 2000 Durango, I serviced the transmission every 60k miles. Ran perfect until I accidentally totaled it on a snowy road a few years ago. Everyone says the Durangos were a POS, but i had almost zero problems with mine. Of course I bought it brand new and serviced it myself until the day it died. | |||
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Still finding my way |
I find it amazing that I can get great information on just about any subject here on the forum. The one exception is on cars. Just frikin wow! Please just take your vehicles to the nearest factory dealership or Aamco station and let them do what they've gone to school to do. I hate buying used cars or guns. You never know what the previous owner did to them because they "felt" they knew the correct way to work on them. | |||
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