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W07VH5 |
I've been planning to upgrade the electric service since we added the garage a couple of years back. Looks like I can finally start to plan the project. Right now I have two underground conduits. One has one 14 gauge wire on a 15A breaker to run the light, door opener and a 3 outlets. I only run one thing in the outlets, including the opener, at once so it's worked out but it's outgrown. The other conduit has Ethernet and security camera wiring. From the current breaker box to the planned location in the garage I'd approximate at 25-30 feet. I can get exact length of cable run if necessary. Can I move the existing breaker box to the garage and run a large enough wire through the 2" underground conduit? Is running a 100A box off of a 200A box feasible and safe? Is 100A enough to run a compressor, stick welder, battery chargers and other miscellaneous tools or am I wasting my time? I probably won't do this until spring so I've lots of time to make changes to plans and hardware. Also, I may run the wire but someone certified will be doing the scary stuff. | ||
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Harshest Dream, Reality | |||
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How does the power come In from the power company? Over head or under ground _____________________ "We're going to die. Some people are scared of dying. Never be afraid to die. Because you're born to die," Walter Breuning 114 years old | |||
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Ammoholic |
I'm confused. You need a heavy up to 200a, that is pretty straight forward. New meter enclosure, new cold water ground, new service entrance cable, new service drop (if overhead), new panel, and I always drive new ground rods (they start degrading the second they are driven in the ground). This is a very normal job and is about $600-700 in materials plus cost of the permit. Around here there is no charge from power company and in some cases they will actually install the service drop. Total cost to hire an electrician in my area is $2,000-$2,800 for a fair one, depending on distances, finished/unfinished areas, and number of circuits. The second part I don't understand. You have a 2" conduit running from your electrical panel to a detached garage? You then want to use the existing circuit as a pull string to pull in new 100a feeder and reuse your old main as a sub. Is this correct? Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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Live for today. Tomorrow will cost more |
Joining the party... Mark- Before I add my comment, I want to reword your request so I know I understand what you're asking. *Your house currently has 100amp service. *You wish to upgrade to 200amp service, and in doing so, you will replace your existing 100amp panel with a new one containing a 200amp main breaker. *You'd like to re-purpose the original 100amp panel in the new garage, as a sub-panel off of the the new panel, and feeding it through the existing 2" conduit that connects the garage to the house. Do I have that right? suaviter in modo, fortiter in re | |||
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W07VH5 |
Correct | |||
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W07VH5 |
Correct | |||
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W07VH5 |
overhead. | |||
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Member |
May just be easier to buy a 100 amp panel and a weatherhead with a meter base and have utility company run new wires for service to the garage _____________________ "We're going to die. Some people are scared of dying. Never be afraid to die. Because you're born to die," Walter Breuning 114 years old | |||
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safe & sound |
Around here each meter is billed separately. The "problem" is that a chunk of my bill is for the service of being attached with the electrical usage on top of that. I pay $25 a month for about $1 worth of electricity. I'm only running lights and garage door openers infrequently. If the outbuilding was connected to my house then I wouldn't be paying two separate bills. | |||
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Live for today. Tomorrow will cost more |
Well then, I think you can do what you propose. I'll defer to 'Skins for the final word, but you should be able to install a 100 amp breaker in the new house panel, run a total of 4 #4AWG conductors (2 hot, one neutral and one ground) through your 2" conduit, and reinstall the old 100 amp panel in the garage. Personally, I might run #3AWG instead of #4, at least for the hots and neutrals, but I tend to over-engineer things like that. suaviter in modo, fortiter in re | |||
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W07VH5 |
Yeah, that feed is gonna cost me a couple hundred alone. | |||
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Ammoholic |
What he said, except due to a change in the code about a decade ago, you have to run #3 now there was a feeder exception that allowed #4, but they removed it. The ground only needs to be #6. #4 is only good to 90A now. Just don't reuse your main panel, they are cheap. Buy a new one, no need to reuse it. Here is one for under $100. Square D QO, which is the brand I would recommend. QO not Homeline, don't get Homeline. You will also need to purchase a Ground bar to separate the grounds and neutrals. Even with that still under a hundred bucks for a brand new panel. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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Ammoholic |
Why? Assuming 40' Should be about $150 for (3)#3 and (1)#6, add on another 10' of #6 for your ground rod. I would likely use #3 for all four wires just because it wouldn't add that much in cost. Keep the #6 for the ground wire because it's harder to get the larger wires under the ground rod acorn (clamp). Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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W07VH5 |
I don't mind buying a new box. This one was installed in 2010, I think. The old install allowed water into the box during a heavy rain and it caught fire. Insurance paid to replace it but would only allow replacement with another 100A service. | |||
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Ammoholic |
If you reuse it you will need to buy a bunch of KO blanks and panel blanks (those are specific to your panel). Probably spend $15+ on blanks alone, more if the panel was really full to begin with. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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