My untrained eye says Red Oak as well. I remodeled a house years ago built in the mid 1940's. I removed a wall that had some cabinets on it to open the kitchen up. Went down to Home Despot and picked up some red oak. Patched it in. Once it was stained and sealed you couldn't tell where I did the patch work. Looked great!
Posts: 5857 | Location: 7400 feet in Conifer CO | Registered: November 14, 2006
Originally posted by petr: Make sure it isn't engineered wood before you buy the 3/4" hardwood.
That's 2 1/4" oak, would use sodium nitrite to determine if it's red or white. I've seen some floors be a mix, not really noticeable until you install strictly red oak to "match" what was already down
Posts: 2679 | Location: The Low Country | Registered: October 21, 2008
Also, if you are doing this yourself, be prepared for dust and make sure you have enough supplies to finish in one coat. There is a guy here that does great work for a reasonable amount of money. Check with the pros and get estimates to have it done by them and compare it to your costs. Renting the sanders, sand paper, stain, top coat, vacuum filters, tack cloth, barriers for doorways. One big thing, do not run your hvac while sanding!
Posts: 3697 | Location: PA | Registered: November 15, 2009
That's natural finished red oak , (cabinetmaker for 32 years). if you plan on doing it yourself those floor sanders can be a disaster if you don't know how to run them, they will did a hole in you're floor real quick, and just be prepared for having dust just about everywhere.
Almost all engineered flooring I've seen is wider than 2.25" face. If it is in fact 2.25" face, it is almost surely traditional T&G solid wood. But to be sure it is best to pull a piece to check, species and dimensions. Sure looks like Red Oak to me.
Posts: 10887 | Location: South Congress AZ | Registered: May 27, 2006
