I want to install T&G wood on my ceiling. I'll runn parallel to my joists, so some nailers will be installed perpendicular to the joists. I want to blind nail the T&G to save on a shit load of hole filling.

Can I use 18g brads (blind nailed) without the need for adhesive?

Thank you,

To be sure, I'd check with the manufacturer to see what it recommends for that type of application.

It probably wouldn't hurt to use some construction adhesive also.

I put tongue and groove in the ceiling of my small enclosed back porch. Blind nailed with 18gauge. It’s been there for 10 yrs with no issues.

Our cedar ceiling has been up for over 18 years now. The installer shot a brad just above the tongue at an angle. He used the same brads I'm pretty sure. You will not find a single nail hole anywhere looking at it. Been there 18 years now so I guess you can say it holds pretty well.

A quick pic:

I have installed several T&G ceilings, pine, cedar, and cypress. I use a scrap piece of the boards to tap each new board in place then nail through the tongue of each board with 2.5 inch finish nails. No need to nail the groove side of the board. If the angle is right the next board will hide the nails. No adhesive required, the tongue and groove boards are very secure.

That reminds me of the time I walked into a bar, only to find it was a Lesbian Bar.

The 1st thing I noticed was the even the pool table didn't have balls.

Then I realized there were no studs in the walls, it was all tongue & groove construction.

Whew!
.

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
That reminds me of the time I walked into a bar, only to find it was a Lesbian Bar.

The 1st thing I noticed was the even the pool table didn't have balls.

Then I realized there were no studs in the walls, it was all tongue & groove construction.

Whew!
.

He started it ^^^^^^

So do you know why the girls team won the Gay Three Legged Race...

Well the guys were just poke-assing along while the girls team took off lickety-split!

Hayesgreener “nailed”it! Mine has been up 32.5 years!

I’d add to the tongue and groove comments, but there’s a halo over my head!

 
I have seen nail guns where the firing end fits right over the tongue part and keeps the gun at exactly the right angle to place the nail. I do not know if this is a special gun, or a fit-on adapter.

Did tongue and grove on our new back porch 2 years ago exactly like Hayes Greener posted above.

Well, my brother-in-law did it and I was his helper. Learned a lot.

My preference is a 15 ga. nail rather than an 18 ga. I think it holds better.

If you put your stringers 16” OC you should be fine. I would use a trim gun as well.

I wouldn't count on your walls being perfectly straight or the T&G being milled to exact specs. Snap a series of parallel chalk lines to periodically measure and make adjustments.

It's far easier to adjust the gaps by 1/64 or 1/32 of an inch than it is to get to the last piece and find the width at one end is 3.5" and the other is 4".

Dan

quote:

Originally posted by KBobAries:
I wouldn't count on your walls being perfectly straight or the T&G being milled to exact specs. Snap a series of parallel chalk lines to periodically measure and make adjustments.

It's far easier to adjust the gaps by 1/64 or 1/32 of an inch than it is to get to the last piece and find the width at one end is 3.5" and the other is 4".

Dan

You nailed it...so to speak.

I asked our builder as he was installing that ceiling what the chalk lines were for and he looked at me and said..." I trust my walls but I would never trust these boards" We had a good laugh Never did ask him how that last board came out.

Thanks for all the input so far, keep it coming.

I'm shooting chalk lines as we speak and measuring for square. My intention is to finish the perimeter with a molding (not crown) but something to hide the cut ends so I'll take that in to consideration when I start the walls, its looking like I can float 3/4" off the wall and finish with the same 3/4" on the other side and not have to rip down 22' of T&G or have a full board on one side and a ripped down 1 1/2" board on the other side.

I will have a pattern change as the dining space moves in to the living room space, but I'll cover the seam with a similar piece of board that I intend to run the perimeter.