I found a clean low mile 1977 BMW R100/7 for what seems like a good price but it's been sitting in a garage for 10+ years. How hard are these machines to work on? For less than $2500 it seems like a good deal but then again I've never worked on a BMW motorcycle.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: stickman428,

Think they are fairly simple. Had an 1100 that even I could do the basics on. The 100's are even more basic. There is a whole community around them.

In 1978 I bought a new R100S and rode it for 3 years. It was very easy to work on as everything is out in the open. Of all the bikes I've owned, it is the only bike I regret selling.

You've got the experience and know that cables, seals and carbs will need extra attention. Good luck if you decide to buy it.

I had an 1975 R90/6 years ago and did basic maintenance and beyond.
Some suggestions for starting out:
Stock parts are still available.
Have a complete set of metric tools. Be prepared to buy or make BMW special tools.
Get a Chilton's, Haynes and/or BMW shop manual for your model and year.

I had one of those about 10 years ago. Very simple to work on and parts shouldn't be too hard to find, but it's still a 40 year old bike so its current condition and past maintenance count for a lot.

They're no worse than a /6, and even I can work on a /6. As with all BMWs, the gremlins will be in the wiring.

I have owned several R's in the past. General maintenance is very easy. Lubing clutch splines is a bit of a task but doable and should not be put off. If the seller does not remember when it was last done do it right away when you are changing the rest of the fluids. I saw one of our camera bikes in the Tour de Trump have this done on the porch of a motel with a very minimal amount of tools. If you do this yourself find out what the latest clutch spline lube de jour is as getting it spattered onto the clutch disc will give you major indigestion. It has to lube the splines but not sling at RPM. "A little dab 'll do ya"! as they used to say about Brylcreem. Do not glob it on, paint a thin coat.I would also check valve clearance on a bike that has been sitting.
Be aware that overhauling a BMW motor is best tackled by a Master Mechanic well versed in the marque (read that line as EXPENSIVE). The motors and transmissions are precision instruments internally and you must know what you are doing or disaster will likely ensue. Don't worry too much though unless the odometer is on the very high side of 100,000 miles, it probably needs nothing more than fluid changes, a new battery and a tune up.
If the spline lube hasn't been done, this may be a bargaining point for a little price reduction as shops charge a pretty fair price to do it. It isn't particularly difficult, just get a manual and follow it.
Another thing on riding the R series is keep the revs up, run in one lower gear than you would with a Japanese bike or Harley, the bike doesn't like to lug and it will discharge the battery if you don't rev it up enough. These are great bikes that are made to be ridden like a motorcycle should be. They don't break very easily.
There is a learning curve to rapid riding on Beemers as shaft drives handle differently than chain drive motorcycles. Smooth is the word and you will be rewarded with a very pleasurable experience particularly if you are a high miler.

Oh yes, if you decide to buy it join either the BMWMOA or the BMWRA, the dues will open up a whole world of folks that love those bikes and the Rallies are the best! Since you are in the Eastern US I would suggest the RA but MOA is the big group and has more going on. You will be in for a whole new world in motorcycling unlike any other group I ever belonged to. Both organizations are great and I kept up membership in both as long as I rode.

As a new BMW owner, I have discovered that BMW stands for:
B ust
M y
W allet
The prospect of my 12K checkup fills me with terror.
That said, my buddy has an ancient R100 he has kept for years and does his own maintenance, mainly in the parking lot of his apartment. I believe it has 300K on it now. He told me if you want to own only one bike for your entire life, it should be an R.

IF the motorcycle has not been ridden for a long period of time, the fuel system probably is shot from old Gasoline turning into a varnish. Bing Carbs (German) can be an expensive rebuild. Fuel tank may need a good cleaning and internal recoat.

Do check the transmission fluid for water. (brown color) Rust can cause a bearing failure.

DAMHIK....

Steering head bearings grease probably has turned to clay. Regrease or new bearings. Get German bearings...about $100 a set.

Careful with the oil filter. It's a bit tricky to install and if not done right can wipe out the crankshaft.

OP..get on the BMW AIRHEAD site for additional help and instructions.

Parts for the 1970-90 Airheads are available but expensive as small parts are now a complete package. Front fork parts, as example.

Good luck. I put a few hundred thousand miles of several BMW Airhead bikes and my only complaint was lack of enough HP to avoid being run over on the Interstate highway.

I never had one, but I was talking to a gentleman who had one with over 100k on it. He just commented that he wished it would break, so he could buy a new one.

He was touring with his wife.

Awesome bike.

It has 37,000 miles and only two owners. It looks like it will need the tank and carbs flushed and cleaned.

quote:

Originally posted by stickman428:
It has 37,000 miles and only two owners. It looks like it will need the tank and carbs flushed and cleaned.

Bing International in Kansas offers a Bing carb rebuild program and with all the new upgrades included, it ain't cheap but, IMO, well worth the cost. The later Bing carbs on the late 80's BMW Airheads were the best at the time, so the 70's/7 carbs can be upgraded.

I've dealt with Bing. Good people to business with.

Edit: check that transmission oil for water. Rust can destroy transmission bearing retainers.

Agree with gwbiker regarding Bing Int. Great folks to do business with and prices are as reasonable as it get vs. dealer. The newer model bikes are very expensive to keep up as almost everything has to go through the magic BMW only computer to determine where the problem in the electronic everything is.
Don't be too downhearted about everyone saying how much you will have do to it. I seem to recall you having project bikes before. Once you get it back to operational condition the maintenance becomes minimal, it is just that this one has sat so long that is racking up the bucks. It needs to be back on the road.

Well, fingers crossed! I made a offer. We shall see.

Whoa. I think I just bought my first BMW.

I had a '93 R100RT. Airheads are great bikes and by the time they got to the /7 model they are pretty much bullet proof. To the above I would caution you to NEVER remove the the cover on the front of the motor without first disconnecting the battery. If you accidentally ground the diode board to anything you will short it out and walk home.

Here we go! My first BMW project.....

quote:

Originally posted by stickman428:

Appears to be a repainted BMW R100RS/7. (No pin strips on gas tank or fenders) Probably around 75HP if it's a "big pipe exhaust" model. First year for that HP.

Wheels appear to be replaced as the OEM bike came with spoked wheels.

Denfield one piece hard bag mounts. After market back rest and rear rack from Salt Lake City BMW, I believe, long out of business.

Carbs are 40mm and e$pen$ive to replace. Lower fairing should be a solid piece, requiring the exhaust pipes to removed to remove the plastic. Later fairing lowers had bolted slots.

The BMW RS fairing in 1977 was the first of it's kind at that time was the best piece of long distance fairing on the market.

DO NOT destroy it.

Brakes are ATU, I believe with master cylinder under the fuel tank. rebuilt kit may still be available.

Beautiful motorcycle. Worth some serious money.
OP should get on the Airheads Internet site and restore that classic.