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Just for the hell of it |
Looks like I need to replace the driver's side front wheel bearing on my 2gen. Acura TL. Uses the same bearing as a 6th gen Accord. Lots of road noise. Goes away when I turn left gets louder when I turn right. Put it up on stands and while there isn't any play in the tire but put it in gear and the driver's side is noisy. Anyone ever use Bearing kit. Looks like I can press the old one out and the new one in myself.This message has been edited. Last edited by: comet24, _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | ||
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Member |
It’s not too hard, never done them on a Honda/Acura however. Most auto parts stores will loan you that bearing drive set up. Pay them $40-50 and you’ll get a full refund when you return it. | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
You have to press the hub out of the knuckle first, then the bearing out of the knuckle. Looking at that kit, I don't see how it can get the hub out. And do you have an air or a good electric impact wrench? If you only have hand tools you're going to have a rough time. And the inner bearing race on the hub side will stay on the hub. I generally remove these by cutting a groove or slot in the race, diagonally so as not to cut into the hub, with a cutoff wheel, then cracking it open and pushing it off with an air chisel. If you get a new hub you can avoid this. Possible alternative: for less than the cost of the tool you can take the hub, bearing and knuckle off yourself, take it to a repair or machine shop and let them do the press work. The car might need an alignment afterwards. Also, I am pretty certain this bearing also acts as the reluctor for the wheel speed sensor, with the bearing race on the inner side next to the sensor magnetized. Be sure not to put it in backwards. | |||
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Just for the hell of it |
I have air tools so no issue there. I've thought about taking it to a shop but ever one I know that did this work has closed over the years. That is still an option I just need a place that can do it that day if I bring it in. It's easy for them but a small job might not be their priority. Speed sense is not part of the bearing on mine but I do know what your talking about. _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
If you have trouble removing the CV axle from the hub, don't hit the joint directly on the end with a hammer. Run the nut on until it is flush with the end, or use a puller. You don't want to peen or "mushroom" the threads over or ding them up, or you won't be able to put the nut back on. | |||
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Edge seeking Sharp blade! |
I did one on a 2001 Accord a couple of weeks ago and I don't know how similar. If the knuckle is as easy to remove as on a 2001, there's little reason to pull and install the bearing on the car. That tool would have been nice, I used a hammer. | |||
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Technically Adaptive |
Odd that it goes away when turning right, louder when left. Turning left would load the passenger side , making it louder. | |||
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Edge seeking Sharp blade! |
I think if the bearing is loud, there would be some play. Verify it isn't the CV joints. Wobbly rotors can be noisy too. | |||
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Just for the hell of it |
You are right I typed it wrong. Fixed it. Thanks _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
You'd think so, but bearings don't always follow the rules. I always hand-turn a bearing (wheel and tire still on) and listen and feel for roughness before condemning it. A marginal bearing may need to be spun by running the car with the wheels free, but newer cars with traction and stability control greatly complicate this. Also, you can have noise without play, and play - sometimes extreme - without noise. | |||
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Just for the hell of it |
Replaced the bearing yesterday. The car is once again quite. Somewhat a PIA but definitely doable if you have some mechanical knowledge. Bought a bearing press tool from Amazon to press the new one it. _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
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Member |
I'm a bit late to the party, but many auto parts stores have that bearing removal kit available to borrow if you didn't what to suffer the expense of buying it. With me, I tend to borrow these kits because I'm flat out of tool storage space in my garage, and its a very infrequently used tool. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
For future reference. Be sure to press the bearing on in such a way that you don’t put the load onto the balls. Press the whole bearing in against the outer race and support the inner race back side when you put the shaft through. Otherwise you can put really small indentations from the balls into the race. That will result in a much shorter lifespan and you’ll be doing it again soon. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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member |
When possible, I use the old race as a "pusher" to press in a new bearing. I take the old race, and run it around a disk sander a few times, so it is not a press fit anymore, but still "almost" the full diameter of the new one. | |||
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Member |
This post is NSFW.....someone at work told a dirty joke right before I read this....LOL! Houston Texas, if the heat don't kill ya, the skeeters will. | |||
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