All the parts came in and this past weekend I spent Saturday and Sunday getting it done. For the whole job the hardiest and most frustrating part was removing and installing one of the bolts on the water pump. I ended up utilizing the the loan a tool program from auto zone and did the vacuum/vacuuming testing/procedure my self along with charging the system with R134a. The system called for 18 Oz and the 2 cans I purchased totaled 24 oz. My electric reloading scale wouldn't work do to weight so I found the ambient temp pressure chart from honda and went by that and the feel of the can. There was left over in the second can but couldn't tell you the exact charge weight I put in. (17-19Oz.+-) So far so good and the A/C is blowing cold, better than it has been for a while. I know it's a little premature and I can't warranty it but I'm happy as a clam and so is my daughter. Thanks again for your advise. Ray

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2003 Honda Element 165K.

Compressor Kit https://www.rockauto.com/en/mo...1&cc=1415731&jsn=357

Ok, Daughter says A/C is blowing hot. she gets it home and I give it a quick look and see what I believe to be compressor oil slung around the serpentine belt components, fender well, and sounds like clutch does engage. No A/C for her for a bit. I'm heading to Ga. to hunt next day. She drives it for a week with no A/C and I get a call in deer stand that it's starting to run hot. She fills up radiator overflow and makes it home. So today I get into the Dx of what is going on. I find Compressor and radiator Fan not working, leak in the upper seal of radiator, and what appears to be a small leak in the variable timing solenoid. AC fan froze, radiator fan jumped it no go. Plan is to replace both fans, water pump, radiator, serpentine belt, solenoid, tensioner pulley, washer pump cause that's out too, condenser, and install compressor kit like above with line flush. I've done all except A/C stuff. Will get some help when it's time for vacuum and refrigerant fill. What I'm not sure of is the kit states it comes prefilled with oil and is ready to be installed but I don't know if extra oil is needed for the system. I looked at sticker under hood says PAG oil see owners manual. Manual can't find anything that states anything about compressor oil. So my question is I'm I good to go with the prefilled compressor or do I need to find out system capacity drain new compressor and add oil if needed? Any input is welcome. Thanks Hray

I haven't ordered any parts yet just making the list with price.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: hray,

If the compressor is bad the system may be contaminated with debris from the internal damage. Also, vacuuming the system correctly before charging and for as long as possible is important, as are a number of other things.
I used to do this type of work a number of years ago and I would try to find someone very competent in this business to do this.
You might get away with doing it yourself and save a few bucks or you might waste a lot of time and money and still have to pay a lot more to fix your mistakes plus the original work.

Too much oil is worse than too little.

They started pre-filling the compressors to cut down on warranty claims.

If you flush the system, which you are since you are replacing other components, then you are good - do not add any oil.

If you replace compressor only and don't flush. You measure amount of oil drained out of old compressor and remove that much from the new one. Kind of half assed since you really shouldn't be replacing a compressor without flushing and changing out some of the other failure prone components anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
If the compressor is bad the system may be contaminated with debris from the internal damage. Also, vacuuming the system correctly before charging and for as long as possible is important, as are a number of other things.
I used to do this type of work a number of years ago and I would try to find someone very competent in this business to do this.
You might get away with doing it yourself and save a few bucks or you might waste a lot of time and money and still have to pay a lot more to fix your mistakes plus the original work.

THIS, AND

Change the dryer, when you change the compressor in addition to this. I would have a pro do the A/C work.

Thanks for the reply's

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by 220-9er:
If the compressor is bad the system may be contaminated with debris from the internal damage. Also, vacuuming the system correctly before charging and for as long as possible is important, as are a number of other things.
I used to do this type of work a number of years ago and I would try to find someone very competent in this business to do this.
You might get away with doing it yourself and save a few bucks or you might waste a lot of time and money and still have to pay a lot more to fix your mistakes plus the original work.

THIS, AND

Change the dryer, when you change the compressor in addition to this. I would have a pro do the A/C work.

In addition to the above and given the warning on the compressor page I would have a professional evaluate the system before you start replacing parts. PAG oil is polyalkylene glyco oil. It's a fully synthetic compressor oil that is compatable with R134a.

Should I also replace my condenser? Vehicle manufacturers recommend that the condenser be replaced whenever the compressor is replaced. While older Tube & Fin style condensers can technically be flushed, metal shards from a failed compressor can get lodged in the cylindrical tubes and can restrict refrigerant flow, diminishing the heat transfer capabilities of the condenser and A/C system. Newer style, mini-tube condensers cannot be flushed and should always be replaced along with the compressor

I’ll be the voice of realistic reason, given the age/value of the car, keep it simple. Swap out the compressor and filter drier. Don’t worry about measuring compressor oils since your new compressor comes pre-filled. Have it vacuumed down (and make sure it holds a proper vac), recharge and you’ll be good to go till the Honda gives up the ghost somewhere north of 400,000 miles. That’s what I would do, I’ll always advise someone to follow the dealers/manufacturer’s recommendation.

Update in OP