quote:

Originally posted by honestlou:
Black, I just sent you an email with my cell number. Call anytime, but leave a message if I don't answer and I'll call you back.

Just got back home and replied to your email.

quote:

Originally posted by PaPaP226:
Isn’t the mirror function an ignition on and lights on feature?

Had not thought about the lights needing to be on too. I’ll have to check that.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
With all the work you do on your rides, why not buy a subscription to the consumer versions of AllData or Mitchell On-Demand and get everything in the shop manuals? Including, in this case, wiring diagrams.

I actually have the full Ford repair manual that is 9,000+ pages. It is a pdf and really difficult to figure out where stuff is. Rarely use it and forgot all about it.
I’ll have to see if I can find that diagram.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
See if this helps. https://www.f150forum.com/f118...head-console-390476/

Thanks but like the info I found for the 18 Expeditions none of the colors match up.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
If it were me, I would run the wires for the GPS from the right side of the mirror, down the passenger side A-pillar (toward the inner side of the curtain airbag assembly if so equipped) to the fusebox located behind the kick panel. The (30amp) fuse for the heated seats will be there even if your ride was not equipped for them. This is where you would be better served for powering your GPS.

Drawing power from this would allow you to have the GPS to be powered while the truck is on. Modern Fords usually have RAP (retained accessory power, meaning power will be on until you turn your truck off and then open the door) so it will say on with the radio. This comes in handy if your GPS has bluetooth for your phone or an FM transmitter to the radio. Be sure to add the proper fuse here.

One other thing of note: Most GPS units will have a built in antennae as part of the power cord to receive data from up to seven satellites.

My initial plan was to mount the GPS in the cubby on the dash and run the wire across the glove box to the kick panel fuse box. Then I came across the mirror tap and would prefer the GPS up above the mirror. If I have to run to the fuse box I will but if I can just tap the mirror Inwould prefer that so I don’t have to take apart the A pillar and side of the dash.
This GPS is the daily use point to point GPS.
I am working on an iPad mount for the dash area that I will use for my off road trips and vehicle monitoring software. So the Garmin GPS will be better suited up by the mirror.

The reading I have done is that my model does not need a specific power cord for satellite or traffic updates and it is all built in. I looked into that with initial idea of hardwiring to the fuse box.

Thanks for all the help so far but will likely be next Monday before I get time to fool with it more.

I tapped my 2015 F-150 XLT rear view for radar detector.


In mine, brown is the negative and blue/brown is +12v switched with ignition, lights not needed.

Well going over it again it looks like I do need the special cable for the traffic updates.
No big deal really just need this cable instead.

EDO Tech Hardwire USB Car Charger Power Cord Cable Kit for Garmin Nuvi 55lmt 56lmt 57lmt 58lmt 65lmt 66lmt 2495lmt 2497lmt 2539lmt 2555lmt 2557lmt 2589lmt 2597lmt 2598lmt 2599lmt Traffic Built in GPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017...cp_api_DEI6BbWZYJ3P7

Guess I am going to need to run it down to the fuse box after all since you don’t want to bundle up the cord.

Was hoping to have this all done prior to our trip to Disney but that is likely not going to happen so guess the cord will just be dangling for the trip.

I hate wiring more and more every time I have to fool with it.

Why not tie into the map lights?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was taught never to prob a hot connection with voltage to it, with the meter set on continuity or Ohms reading.
That is the one caution I have. Maybe newer meters have overload circuitry that will prevent any damage.

quote:

Originally posted by Oz_Shadow:
Why not tie into the map lights?

Map lights are constant power.

Safest would be an add a circuit fuse tap that way you can fuse it and not ovreload an existing circuit.

Process is pull fuse
Insert add a circuit tap fuse
Run wire to location
Red to positive
Black to ground
Insert pulled fuse
Insert add a circuit tap fuse

The current draw is low enough on things like dash cams, radar detectors, etc. That tapping off the auto dimming mirror seems to be acceptable. There is a company that makes kits specifically for this. It is a length of wire with the appropriate connector for your device on one end and a small pins on the opposite end for back probing the factory mirror connector.

I traced and soldered my radar detector on my Tundra for a cleaner appearance.

I would agree,a dedicated fused circuit would be best. I may do that when I get a dash cam so as not to overload the mirror circuit.

quote:

Originally posted by ffips:
Safest would be an add a circuit fuse tap that way you can fuse it and not ovreload an existing circuit.

Process is pull fuse
Insert add a circuit tap fuse
Run wire to location
Red to positive
Black to ground
Insert pulled fuse
Insert add a circuit tap fuse

This will likely be the case since the mirror tap will not accommodate the traffic updates.
Was hoping to keep it simple without tearing apart the interior.