I am planning on buying a used SUV. I'm in no rush so if it is tomorrow or 10 months from now, I'm okay with waiting.

I'm bouncing between a ford explorer, the previous one lasted me 17 trouble free years, and a toyota 4runner I don't really want a "small" suv or crv, whatever they are called now, I like the ride height and the feeling like I'm sitting in a seat rather then just a few inches off the floor boards like in smaller versions.

What I am wondering is when is the best time to purchase? After new model year is released, right before, does it even matter in the used car world?

What is the best way to purchase? I have no trade in and 15k saved up for it and I'm wondering if it is better for me to purchase outright or to finance and have it direct pay from a dedicated account so as to build credit. Is there any benefit to putting down cash and financing a portion? What is the best way if I'm trying to increase my credit currently 780ish which I believe is the bottom for the good range.

Do I have any more buying power if I present myself with the ability to pay in full with the seller? Can I expect to get any upgraded freebies like floor mats or services either way?

I haven't bought a car from a dealer in over 15 years and not really sure how it all works anymore.

Open to any and all advice, thanks.

1. Shop/negotiate based on the out the door price. Lots of dealers these days like to move money around and one car might be advertised as 1500 cheaper than the same vehicle at another dealer but then after all the fees are added in, the second car could be cheaper.

2. Do you research on a site like www.cargurus.com where you can see if it's a good price, how long it's been on the lot and if they've made any changes.

3. Get your own financing ahead of time if you can. Just makes everything a little easier.

4. If you are serious about a car and have a concern, take it to a mechanic you trust for a pre-purchase inspection.

I've had two great experiences with Carvana.

That's now the only way I will buy a used car.

Note: I am not connected to Carvana in any way. Just a satisfied customer.

It's a math question.
Just look at the bottom line.
Watch out for the smoke and mirrors.

My last 4 vehicles have come from CarMax and probably any in the future.

Used vehicle? You'll probably get a better deal from a private party, unless you want a warranty. Have a mechanic ready who can do a thorough inspection.

First you’ll want to decide which you want. The 4Runners are highly regarded, and it shows when you’re looking used.

Consider certified preowned. There are benefits, but at a cost. Some programs are good, some are meh.

Once you know what you want, you’ll have to narrow the year/mileage to an acceptable price. Find several within whatever distance is acceptable to you. For some that’s 50 miles. For some it’s 2,500.

Email the internet sales contact for each and ask them their best out the door price. Compare that to what you find is a good price based on your research. Expect several hundred in dealer fees.

Take your research and the bids you get from the internet salesmen and counter your top picks with a supported argument. If one meets your fancy at this point, you can move. Or you can travel if it’s close and sit down with them and see if they will budge.

I wouldn’t say or agree to anything about financing until the out the door price is acceptable. I agree that securing your own financing beforehand is a good idea, but don’t rule out checking their financing, which could benefit you. But I’d leave that bit for last.


As mentioned, there’s Carmax, Carvana, cars.com, ebaymotors, etc. Your resources are nearly limitless. When you find a car, take a look at how long it’s been on the lot, many sites disclose that. You may have a car locating service, even for used, through an organization you are a member of; financial organization, AAA, insurance, work, etc. These usually don’t hurt, but might not be the best price.

This is a broad subject. Those are just a few ideas.

I purchased my current car used. Fresh off a 3 year low mile lease, 24k miles on the clock and certified. It was pretty much a $50k new car 50 percent off. Decide on what you want/need, determine your budget and do your due dilligence. Then shop around at reputable dealerships. Never bd afraid to walk if something doesnt feel right.

I'm waiting till 2019 to buy a 2019 vehicle. What I'm afraid of is water damage from the floods that I will not be able to detect, even on a new 2018.

Be careful with Ford Explorers built in the 2008 time frame. I’ve got one and it’s a very poorly built car. I don’t mean my particular one either. It’s just full of parts clearly never designed to go 100K. I’ve got just over that on mine and have replaced the thermostat housing, radiator, water pump and the harmonic balancer (along with normal consumables like batteries tires and alternator) and have had to repair the vent control lever inside the dash. And I just got it back from a transmission rebuild. Every issue I’ve had seems to be pretty common per the various Ford forums.

I’m the original owner and I also have a 99 Isuzu Trooper and a 98 GMC Sonoma with virtually zero iussues so if you’re thinking maybe I’m just hard on cars, you’re wrong.

I purchased my current vehicle used. The dealership down the street had the vehicle I needed and wanted listed for more than I wanted to pay certified preowned with a warranty.
I researched comparable vehicles from dealerships within 150 miles of me with the same certification and warranty.
I researched the value of my trade by bringing it to multiple dealerships and getting an average value.
I used this information to walk into the dealership near me with a minimum I would take for my trade and a maximum I would pay for the car.
The salesperson was not happy when I laid the numbers out on the table and she even made some statement like “we can’t do that”. So I got up and left. 2 days later I got a call that they would accept my numbers and the deal was made
Don’t be afraid to play hardball and always do your research.

I buy lots of cars...here’s my advice.

1. Don’t be afraid to travel. Go south a buy a car that hasn’t spent time in CT or anywhere else in the northeast with the salt eating away at your undercarriage. Trucks down here that come from the northeast sell on average for 4-5k less when the carfax shows it’s spent any time up north.

2. The internet is your friend. Sites like CarGurus will do the looking for you. Dealers will often post close to their best prices on these sites. Sometimes you will find that they are advertised for more on the lots.

3. If you want something from within the last 5 years expect to pay $22-26k for something with less than 40k miles on it.

4. Lastly about 4-6 months after the new year model is released don’t rule out getting a new left over SUV for the close to what a 2 year old model costs with factory incentives. Cars and trucks that sit on lots cost money. Dealers and manufacturers want those gone. For instance last February VW dealerships in the area were pushing brand new 2017 base GTI’s for $19.5. The same car with 15k miles on it used today sells for $20k.

Simple rules of thumbs to buying 'any' vehicle...

1 - Buy at end of month and/or end of quarter when dealers are motivated to move inventory,
2 - The internet is your friend in terms of researching pricing.
3 - Dealers would prefer to finance a vehicle as opposed to a straight sale as they make additional revenue on the deal.
4 - If you're uncomfortable at any dealership, find another dealership. Trust your instincts.
5 - Get 'everything', and I do mean everything you discuss with the sales staff in writing, preferably as an addendum to the actual contract.
6 - Shop, shop, and shop some more until your find the best vehicle for you. Since you have the time, don't compromise. Wait it out and you'll eventually find the right vehicle.

Good luck.

I buy used only from Carmax or Enterprise used car sales. They are generally a little more expensive than you would pay from a private party, BUT they are fully warranted and thoroughly prepared for re-sale. With current car technology, it simply isn't feasible to inspect a car yourself (unless you are a trained service tech.) Even an inspection from a tech is pretty expensive, and still no insurance that you're not getting a lemon.

I wonder, if you kept the last vehicle that long, why not buy new?

I purchased a 2012 F150 new on Memorial Day 2012. At the time Ford gave me 6 years 0% interest. If you are not in a hurry and flexible on the vehicle, there are very attractive deals on new vehicles out there. I was looking for a 2-3 year old truck but with the financing offers on a new truck, it made no sense to buy used. Add in the fact that I know exactly how it has been maintained and driven since day one. It was a great deal. I still have the truck and it is paid off with 112,000 miles all driven by me.

As far as buying goes, know what you are willing to pay. Both on monthly payments and on final price. Only four numbers can change in a car deal.
1. Price of the vehicle
2. Interest Rate of the loan
3. length of the loan
4. Amount of down payment/trade in value
You can buy a Ferrari for $199 per month with enough money down and a long enough term. That is how you see the luxury car ads on TV for ridiculously low monthly payments. It is about the amount they require down. The Dealer will try to change your payment by extending the term or increasing the down payment. The key is to get #1 as low as possible first. If the Dealer does not change #1, you are not getting a better deal.

Used I’d definitely go private party sale. I’d only buy it if the owner has service records, and dealer maintained or well known shop. I’d have it inspected at the dealer and by an independent body shop.

The only advice I will offer is regardless of where you buy it, dealer, private party, o whatever, git it inspected by your trusted mechanic. Our shop (Meineke) doesn't charge a fee for a used ar inspection. However, if we do find something that requires an in depth inspection we do charge a small fee to cover our time. Most shops around here charge less than $100 for a used ca inspection.

You wouldn't believe how many times we have a customer bring a car in to have it checked AFTER buying it. Sometimes they will have recourse to get it repaired. Other times, like a private sale, they are just screwed. A coupld weeks ago I inspected a car that a customer had just purchased the day prior and it had so much wrong with it the repairs were half as much as they PAID for the POS. It also had a brake fluid leak so bad that made it unsafe to drive. My boss, the franchise owner, felt so stongly about the safety of our customer the we paid to have it towed to their house so the didn't have to drive it.

Also, verify what the pre-owned warranty covers. We've had a few customers take cars back to the delaer where it was puchased for repairs we discovered in a used car inspections only to be told it wasn't covered.

We've bought a couple of cars from Enterprise used car sales. The cars are usually current model year or last year's. vehicles and has the remainder of the factory warranty. They will show you the maintenance records of the vehicle so you can see if there were any issues.

The prices were significantly below what the used car prices for comparable vehicles were.

I know that some people say to never buy a rental vehicle but that has not been my experience. My younger son has had his for 10 years and has had zero issues with it...

https://www.enterprisecarsales...?campaignid=featured

quote:

Originally posted by Rotndad:
The only advice I will offer is regardless of where you buy it, dealer, private party, o whatever, git it inspected by your trusted mechanic. Our shop (Meineke) doesn't charge a fee for a used ar inspection. However, if we do find something that requires an in depth inspection we do charge a small fee to cover our time. Most shops around here charge less than $100 for a used ca inspection.

You wouldn't believe how many times we have a customer bring a car in to have it checked AFTER buying it. Sometimes they will have recourse to get it repaired. Other times, like a private sale, they are just screwed. A coupld weeks ago I inspected a car that a customer had just purchased the day prior and it had so much wrong with it the repairs were half as much as they PAID for the POS. It also had a brake fluid leak so bad that made it unsafe to drive. My boss, the franchise owner, felt so stongly about the safety of our customer the we paid to have it towed to their house so the didn't have to drive it.

Also, verify what the pre-owned warranty covers. We've had a few customers take cars back to the delaer where it was puchased for repairs we discovered in a used car inspections only to be told it wasn't covered.

Yes, as Rotndad says, it does pay to have a used car inspected by a qualified mechanic BEFORE you lock yourself in to a contract.

About a year and a half ago, I found what looked like a good deal on a 2010 Ford Edge, at a large local Ford dealer.

I took it to the shop that maintains our vehicles. Ninety-five dollars for a "pre-marital" inspection, revealed maintenance items that would easily cost a couple of thousand dollars to rectify, including a cracked transmission mount, leaky power steering fluid cooler, spark plugs that had never been changed . . .

I went back to the dealer and told them that I would pay their asking price for the vehicle, no quibbling, if they corrected the problems on my mechanic's list. They did so, and I am now driving a solid vehicle that I bought for a reasonable price.

First off how are you paying for the car? Are you financing it? If you are where is your loan coming from? Bank, Credit Union, Dealership? We belong to a Credit Union. They usually have very competitive rates. Our Credit Union also works with Enterprise for used cars. VERY PAINLESS. We just purchased a 2017 Infinity QX30 for my wife back in July. Found the car on Enterprises web site. Called the Enterprise car sales to set up an appointment to go look at then called my CU to get pre-approved. The whole process was quick and easy.