I am helping my elderly mother with replacement of her electric range/oven.

She lives in an old home, and her present range is "hard wired" to her fuse panel. There is no 220v outlet in the wall behind the range - rather just a flexible conduit that connects the wiring to directly to the range.

My question: is it possible to have a new range connected to power in the same way? Is it possible and does code allow the "cord" coming from the back of a new electric range/oven to simply be removed and the electrical connection made there?

We're hoping to avoid the expense of having to have a new 220v service outlet run to the oven location.

Thanks in advance!

Can you add a 220 receptacle to the end of the flex conduit?

I do not know what the current code is in your area.

However, providing the wiring is good and the correct size and breaker, you should be able to connect it directly to the range. Otherwise you could install an outlet in the wall.

If my house, would do one of two things.

If back of the stove clearance allowed, screw a metal box to the wall/studs behind the stove. Flex into the box, clamp flex with proper fitting/clamp to box through knockout, wire to proper current outlet, cover. If don't have the clearance, same box on the floor, maybe screw box to floor.

If you can add an outlet behind the stove, that would be the way to go.

Make sure the breaker is the proper size for wire attached to it, Electric ranges are typically 220v / 50 Amp requirement.

Newer ranges require a 4 prong outlet which is 2 (110v) Hot Legs, Neutral and Ground so be sure the old wiring is 3 conductors with ground for a total of 4. This configuration would require an 8/3 wire (black, white, red and bare copper). If it's only a total of 3 wires currently, you should run a complete new line from the panel.

Then purchase the correct "surface Mount" Range outlet and attach it to the wall behind the stove and wire it properly.

At that point purchase a range cable, properly wire it to the new stove, then you should be good to go.

If you are not sure about this, I highly suggest you hire an Electrician.

I took my old oven out and it was directly wired.

My buddy, an electrician, came and wired up the new oven the same way. No outlet required.

Not sure why a stove would be any different...

quote:

Originally posted by SBrooks:
I took my old oven out and it was directly wired.

My buddy, an electrician, came and wired up the new oven the same way. No outlet required.

Not sure why a stove would be any different...

They require a disconnecting means or a breaker lock so tech can ensure power is off while servicing.

OP to many variables to tell you for sure. Some pictures would help. The flex is likely part of stove rather than house wiring. Look for jbox above the stove or in a cabinet, usually this is where the house wiring goes to.

Oven had its own breaker downstairs...

Doing something that "works" is one thing.

Doing something that meets code is another.

quote:

Originally posted by Yellow Jacket:
Doing something that "works" is one thing.

Doing something that meets code is another.

Amen to that.

So cuz we did this:

We just installed a retro fridgiaire electric stove top. Had to have sparky wire it up.
With no 220 outlet either!! We combined the existing to one line, no new line. So he added the 220 outlet and replaced the exisitjng breaker with dual pole 30amp.
He read 7 amps out of each line(replaced an olde Miele 3 piece cook top, hence the three lines to the breaker.) so we made it one line with the aforementioned Amp readings and kept the existing three line to the 30 amp dual pole. $60 In parts for Home Depot and sparky. $300 labor for sparky.

Works great.

We also added an Iguardfire motion detector to watch the stove top activities..this is an age in place client who has dementia issues, and so far it's been a savior for making tea and bringing happiness to our client. I can even watch the stove activity on an app, which also gives the user total control over the stove.

Hope you win your install..

That was one confusing post . "Read 7 amps out of each line " ? " three lines to the breaker " ? Huh ?

I think they used the ground as the neutral and the old neutral as one leg of the 220.

quote:

Originally posted by SBrooks:
Oven had its own breaker downstairs...

Still requires a plug or a breaker lock ($4 part that snaps over breaker) to meet code.

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
That was one confusing post . "Read 7 amps out of each line " ? " three lines to the breaker " ? Huh ?

Sorry about the confusion. I'll try to help if it really matters and if I am able better esplain'..
3 piece cook top. Hence the three separate lines
One line to each piece/section of the crazy old cook top.and each on its own 15 amp breaker.

So the three lines where combined/wire nutted together to make the three into one line on the appliance end to "work" with 220plug for the new cook top.

When the amp meter was applied to each of lines, we saw 7 amps per line, (recall three lines are now combinedto one line), so we where well protected with the one dual pole breaker.

That help?

quote:

Originally posted by bigmule:

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
That was one confusing post . "Read 7 amps out of each line " ? " three lines to the breaker " ? Huh ?

Sorry about the confusion. I'll try to help if it really matters and if I am able better esplain'..
3 piece cook top. Hence the three separate lines
One line to each piece/section of the crazy old cook top.and each on its own 15 amp breaker.

So the three lines where combined/wire nutted together to make the three into one line on the appliance end to "work" with 220plug for the new cook top.

When the amp meter was applied to each of lines, we saw 7 amps per line, (recall three lines are now combinedto one line), so we where well protected with the one dual pole breaker.

That help?

That IS NOT up to code and NOT safe. If one of the lines has/gets a break in it, then the other 2 lines are carrying 50% more load and the breaker will not trip and you will have a fire.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by bigmule:

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
That was one confusing post . "Read 7 amps out of each line " ? " three lines to the breaker " ? Huh ?

Sorry about the confusion. I'll try to help if it really matters and if I am able better esplain'..
3 piece cook top. Hence the three separate lines
One line to each piece/section of the crazy old cook top.and each on its own 15 amp breaker.

So the three lines where combined/wire nutted together to make the three into one line on the appliance end to "work" with 220plug for the new cook top.

When the amp meter was applied to each of lines, we saw 7 amps per line, (recall three lines are now combinedto one line), so we where well protected with the one dual pole breaker.

That help?

That IS NOT up to code and NOT safe. If one of the lines has/gets a break in it, then the other 2 lines are carrying 50% more load and the breaker will not trip and you will have a fire.

Google "310.4 NEC", very illegal. Depending how its done can cause fire from inductive heating.

Hire an electrician before you burn the house down.
That sounds extremely unsafe!