Many door companies sell factory seconds.

I used to make parts in a re-saw lumbermill (fingerjoint and lamination) that were sold to different door companies to make their doors.

I know Anderson had factory seconds you could order.

Your door may be unbreakable, but sheet rock ain’t.

I get the drywall thing, but my bedroom door is in a corner

Get a outward swinging steel door with a metal frame. Use security hinges so if they pull the hinge pins the door will not open. Put on a deadbolt or multi point security lock. Like one of these.

https://gssdoors.com/multi-point-lock.html


Around here there are door companies that make steel security doors.

Just an aside, they charge a couple hundred more to affix a fire rating tag to the door, the door company pays for the tags from the rating agency.

How secure do you feel you need to get.

Any accessible walls should be replaced by plywood and skim coated.

If a bad guy wants in a battery sawzall will let them cut their way in on a wood frame house.

quote:

Originally posted by sig2392:
Get a outward swinging steel door with a metal frame. Use security hinges so if they pull the hinge pins the door will not open. Put on a deadbolt or multi point security lock. Like one of these.

https://gssdoors.com/multi-point-lock.html


Around here there are door companies that make steel security doors.

Just an aside, they charge a couple hundred more to affix a fire rating tag to the door, the door company pays for the tags from the rating agency.

How secure do you feel you need to get.

Any accessible walls should be replaced by plywood and skim coated.

If a bad guy wants in a battery sawzall will let them cut their way in on a wood frame house.

I'm pretty sure the bad guy will get shot long before that happens .

[/QUOTE] I'm pretty sure the bad guy will get shot long before that happens .[/QUOTE]

Yep!

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Replace the door with a solid core door of the same size and run three or four inch screws into the hinges so that they get into the framing. Then replace the screws that are in the strike plate with the same long screws...

There are some places you can buy a longer/larger strike plate that will spread a hit/kick across the frame....same thing about the screws....

Velcro a rubber (not wood) doorstop (big old school rubber triangle shaped) to the back of the bedroom door and insert it to help prevent attack against kicks..

You could even add a deadbolt to the door after or in addition to the longer screws and longer larger strike plate

This, and go ahead and upgrade to a steel door.

I've tried to make the exterior doors and windows to these higher standards and have cameras, an alarm, and two dogs that alert to any suspicious noises.
Then there are readily available firearms.
If someone gets inside to the point where my bedroom door is the only protection, than I'm in real trouble already.
I don't have any of the other things that would invite attention, problem relatives etc., other than just being a random target so between all these things I sleep pretty well.

My idea for this was for there to be a relatively safe place (bedroom) for my wife to grab our daughter and retreat to...as a last resort. We have a German Shepherd, cameras and a monitored alarm. My concern is the random door kicker and me not being home. The ATF is kind enough to plaster us FFL’s info on their website for all to see. While the chance of someone tracking down my location via the ATF’s website is remote, I just like being prepared. Especially if it doesn’t take much effort

I have three Katy Bars (high, middle, and low) on the exit door of my strong room. A good solid door is a must, but you also have to reinforce the jamb holding the door frame and anchoring the bar. We made a number of forced SWAT entries back in my day where the entire door frame came out. Some extra studs and 5/16 Grex constructions screws anchoring the door frame to the studs make a big difference. Here is the link to Katybar, I like it because you can lock or unlock it in a hurry.
https://www.katybar.com/home/

I'd replace the interior designed door with a steel exterior door. Long screws through the hinges and jamb into the studs behind. Same for the strike plates. Get a door cut for both a knob and deadbolt, and install both. At night lock both.

To those who say even with this, an invader can get through the sheetrock, this is true. But by the time the try to get through the door (hopefully kicking / forcing it noisily to no avail), then try cutting / smashing through the sheetrock stud wall, you're wide awake, gun in hand, on the cellphone with 911 dispatch. You won't get woken up by the invader tapping you on the side of your head with his gun.

On the outside of this, you might want to layer on an alarm system, so the warning starts when they try to penetrate the house before getting to the bedroom.

My Daughter is building a house and a safe room is being added with access from the bedroom. I told her to also have the builder reinforce the bedroom door. Reinforcing the bedroom door would at least give them time to arm themselves and make it to the safe room in case someone did make it inside.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Replace the door with a solid core door of the same size and run three or four inch screws into the hinges so that they get into the framing. Then replace the screws that are in the strike plate with the same long screws...

There are some places you can buy a longer/larger strike plate that will spread a hit/kick across the frame....same thing about the screws....

Velcro a rubber (not wood) doorstop (big old school rubber triangle shaped) to the back of the bedroom door and insert it to help prevent attack against kicks..

You could even add a deadbolt to the door after or in addition to the longer screws and longer larger strike plate

All of those would up security by quite a bit.

quote:

Originally posted by jhe888:


All of those would up security by quite a bit.

Thanks, the suggestions are fairly inexpensive and itll buy you enough time for you to wake up and arm yourself, if someone decides to begin kicking in the drywall next to the door, then I know where to start shooting.

Awesome guys, thank y’all again for the ideas.

There are a bunch of great ideas here that I won't repeat. As to means and methods, I've used GRK's structural screws in a number of applications and they are fantastic. They are extremely strong and easy to use (no need to drill pilot holes but won't split the substrate, thereby weakening the connection). Replacing existing hinge and strike plate screws with 4 inch GRKs would be fast and easy, just do them one at a time and do not over torque to avoid pulling things out of square.

We had very large, heavy impact rated front doors installed a couple of years ago and the installer used these fasteners to attach the door frame to the adjoining wall. According to the specifications the resulting connection is stronger than the door itself, so you literally can't do any better.