I have this Maytag Neptune (about 17+ years old). Always worked well for me so I guess it's about time to fix something.

I goes through the wash cycle, rinse cycle, drains the water but then doesn't spin dry. At least not that I can hear. does it on both the Regular and Normal/Timed side of the dial.


Is there some timer component that needs to be replaced? I'm guess the belt (if there is one) is okay since it seems to spin for the wash cycle). Or something else?

Help? What should I check for fixing? Parts source if needed?

ETA model number: MAH4000AWQ

This message has been edited. Last edited by: konata88,

I had one that the clothes would still be dripping wet. It did spin but not fast enough. The clutch had worn out. A few bucks and a little work and it worked like new again.

No idea if that's you issue but I would check it out.

Hopefully Brad will be along and know exactly what to look for.

Thanks, Sounds like me.

I found this page but seems to suggest a list of parts based on the symptoms. But I'm not sure how to troubleshoot -- prefer not to buy all the parts and replace everything. (and especially still not have it work ).

http://www.partselect.com/Adva...asterID=15464&PID=26

Try jumping the lid switch. This is usually the first step in diagnosing why it won't spin, you should be able to just jump the wires.

Is it possible the load was unbalanced? My washer becomes unbalanced all the time, and leaves the clothes wet.

It happens more often with small loads.

Lid switch. I'll try that. There is a door lock indicator that is on until the door can be opened: related?

I tried two loads; one medium load. Seems like it didn't even try to spin up.

quote:

MAH4000AWQ

Check here......https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair/11-4-92327-/Maytag-Washing-Machine-MAH4000AWQ-Troubleshooting

Look on the controller board for a burnt resistor. R300 i think?

Had one of those washers and it would fry the resistor about ever four year. Finally got fed up and bought a Samsung set off craigslist

Our Neptune would get about four years to a circuit board. We were on number three when it started to act up.

Neptune was replaced by Bosch units.

I guess I'll have to open up and check the circuit board for burnt components? If not visually obvious, not sure I have the skills do troubleshoot.

Hopefully I can find the problem and fix it. Buying a new washer will hurt my wallet noticeably now.

Trouble shooting electrical is not that hard, get a multi meter and just google how to OHM parts.

As I considered checking the circuit board, I remembered that I had done this some time back (15 years ago?). I had replaced a resistor and some other component along with the wax motor (still don't know what a wax motor is).

Since the Door Locked indicator comes on, this is suggesting a mechanical issue with the wax motor not hitting some switch. #7 on the FAQ.

Any thoughts? How do I test the wax motor travel once I have this disassembled?

http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page704.htm

http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm

I'm looking at the wax motor. Seems okay visually. How do I check if it's working properly?

I just had some problem with a different brand and it was the door lock assembly, would not final spin.

Hope you get it figured out.

Looking at the components, the R11 and Q6 I replaced before looks fine (to me). Thoughts?




If these parts look fine, the wax motor looks fine, not sure what I should try next.

David, thanks... What fixed your problem? Did you replace the door latch assembly?

Remember, I'm a novice. I think I tested for continuity for this switch. I put the negative on one pole, touched the same with the positive lead and got tone. Put the positive lead on the other pole and no tone, whether the switch is pushed in or not.

I moved the negative lead to the other pole, touched the same pole with with the positive lead and got tone. Repeated with the other pole and no tone whether the switch was pushed in or not.

So, I think the switch is dead.

Question: if this switch is bad, how does that result in the washer running, the door lock indicator light turned on but just no spin dry cycle? Seems like if the Door Locked is on, the the presumption is that the door is also closed, yes?

Should I find the part and replace it? Or is it a red herring?

Just looked through my box of old boards, don't have one for your washer.

Did you use the tech sheet up in the control panel area to diagnose the washer?

If the burnt area around the J11 is from the previous failure, I would be looking at motor circuit issues.

Hi Brad -- thanks much for stopping by.

Yes, the burnt area around R11 is from the prior failure when I replaced R11 and Q6.

I found the tech sheet. I thought it was just circuit diagrams (which are generally greek to me) but after you mentioned it, I opened it up and on the backside were some troubleshooting tips

From the tech sheet (below), even though the Door Locked light does come on, I checked continuity across Door Lock Spin Enable Switch (the switch with the yellow and 2 red wires to the right of the brown wax motor in the pic above) and it's working when the switch is depressed. And then I continuity from the Door Lock Spin Enable Switch to the Machine Control Terminal P3-7 and it's fine. (Assumption here is that the wax motor is still functional.

Can I tape the Door Lock Spin Enabled switch so that it's closed? Will that help pinpoint the problem and also let me use the washer until the problem is fixed? Or is that a bad idea? The door lock light does come on and the door does lock closed while in operation.

If you are not capable of fixing the washer yourself, why don't you just call a repairman and pay the money rather than wasting days of your time trying to figure it out? Some things you just have to know when to say when and call a professional.

Given it's age, I'd just go buy a brand new one for $400 +/- and call it a day.......