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The air above the din |
Installing a slide-in oven using a 3-prong range cord. There's an outlet box back there, but there isn't enough extra wire coming up through the floor to get much movement on the box, so the box won't fit completely into any of the recessed ares on the back of the oven. This translates to the oven not sitting flush with the wall. Here's my question. Is there a safety or code issue with cutting a small hole in the sheetrock so the outlet box can sit partially behind the wall? The other alternative is getting the range hardwired directly and bypassing the outlet box, but I'm trying to avoid that (because it's not something I'm comfortable attempting). | ||
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Too old to run, too mean to quit! |
2 thoughts come to mind. First, I believe they have those outlet boxes that are designed to be installed into the Sheetrock. But that might require running the source wire behind the sheetrock. Second, and easiest, since power outlet boxes are installed by the millions into sheet rock, I would just put a large enough hole in the sheet rock to accommodate the box. Elk There has never been an occasion where a people gave up their weapons in the interest of peace that didn't end in their massacre. (Louis L'Amour) "To compel a man to furnish contributions of money for the propagation of opinions which he disbelieves and abhors, is sinful and tyrannical. " -Thomas Jefferson "America is great because she is good. If America ceases to be good, America will cease to be great." Alexis de Tocqueville FBHO!!! The Idaho Elk Hunter | |||
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The air above the din |
Yeah, that was my idea. Just do a cutout directly behind the box, and it would sit there, half in, half out. But it should be sufficient to let the range slide in flush. No rewiring of anything required (giving me the best chance of not killing myself.) Of course, I haven't checked to see if there might be a stud sitting right behind the box. | |||
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Member |
It looks like you tried to add pictures, but I can't see them, but the general answer is"yes" you can put the wiring in the wall cavity. Of course you want to do it safely, i.e. secure the wire and box, have it protruded correctly etc. | |||
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The air above the din |
Trying pics another way. | |||
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Ammoholic |
You are fine cutting the drywall. The harder part is notching the sub floor and bottom plate with out damaging the wiring to allow the plug to move. If you have some slack in the line you may be able to get away with out notching sub floor and bottom plate. PS while you are at it take the cover off the outlet and tighten the connections on the outlet. They are often not tightened properly at install and over the years can actually loosen up a tiny amount. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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member |
When I've had to locate a box where there wasn't one, especially for AC house voltage, I buy a double gang metal box. It is wide enough to get a right-angle screwdriver into. The find the stud, cut the hole next to the stud, and screw the box to the stud. That way your box is completely flush (and more solidly mounted). You can find cover plates for double gang boxes that have the outlet on one side and blank on the other. Personally, I use the "locate a box anywhere" devices only for low voltage (network wiring, e.g.). | |||
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Ammoholic |
Here is a box designed to do exactly what you are describing and meet code. Arlington F102 PS Aquilon, to meet code and pass home inspection you need to have box secured and anti-tip device installed as well. Jesse Sic Semper Tyrannis | |||
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My other Sig is a Steyr. |
My new stove didn't fit against the wall either. Some will have a recess in the back of the stove for the outlet/plug, but it will not line up with where your outlet is. I had to mount my outlet about six inches higher and 8 inches to the left. Check if the back of your stove has the cavity and align the outlet to it if you can. Somhow I thought if I bought a $1500 stove it would slide right in, but nooo.... | |||
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The air above the din |
The range does have cavities on the back. But neither of them line up to accommodate the box where it currently sits. And there's not enough slack in the wire to move the box into the correct spot. | |||
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Shall Not Be Infringed |
How about removing the existing 'Outlet Box' and replacing with a Flush Mount Box, mounted in the floor. You will need to cut a hole in the floor/sub-floor to do so, but wont have any issues due to insufficient length of the wire. You should verify that this will meet current NEC and local Electrical Codes. I have a Dual-Fuel Range and that's the type of electrical connection I have. My home was new construction in 2006 and passed inspection, so it was code compliant in NH at that time. ____________________________________________________________ If Some is Good, and More is Better.....then Too Much, is Just Enough !! Trump 2024....Make America Great Again! "May Almighty God bless the United States of America" - parabellum 7/26/20 Live Free or Die! | |||
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Member |
or if you wanted to hide it in the cupboard , next to the stove. they make 5 ft. and even 6 foot range cords, that you could feed through a neatly made hole in the side of the cupboard . if that wall is an exterior wall ( behind the stove) Safety, Situational Awareness and proficiency. Neck Ties, Hats and ammo brass, Never ,ever touch'em w/o asking first | |||
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