quote:

Originally posted by arcwelder76:

You could go 2x10,2x8,2x4. I like Ledgerloks for this type of thing, don't just nail or screw.
[The shortest Ledgerloks I found are 3 5/8. If I stacked two 2xXs against the joist, would that work - triple stacking? I'd only be getting less than halfway into the original joist - not enough bite in there? If I used only a single board against the joist, I'd be punching through the outside.]


As others have mentioned, there should be flashing visible in your pics, and there appears to be none. So, any leaking will continue to occur. To be corrected it's removing the whole door unit, and exterior case, hopefully there is tar paper or home wrap to connect to under that.

[Andersen is coming out later this month to install a brand new door. I am prepping the subfloor and area around the door to allow them to focus only on the door install. This was suggested by the Andersen tech to save money, and they probably don't want to deal with anything else as well. I think it works out better this way, as I've given that area over a week to dry out, whereas I'm sure those guys will be under pressure to get the job done and might not have done so.

I want to make sure I'm not doing anything that would preclude them from doing a good install on the door, and thus be able to hold them accountable later on.]


There should be a pan and side flashing, your home looks modern enough that it should be a peel and stick rubber/tar product. There are lots of ways to do it.

[Yeah...I did not perceive anything like that as I was cleaning out all the rotted wood under the door frame. It just appeared to be the wooden door frame sitting on top of OSB, then the joist.

My house was built in the early 2000s in VA, when the housing boom was full on. Some of the things I've had to fix, I think it's generous to call half-assed, more like a quarter to a fifth-assed.]

Without this flashing, and if there is no roof over the door, any rain on the siding can get indoors, certainly wind driven rain can go right past the exterior trim.

[Understand. I don't believe I can properly install this without removing the door, so I plan on letting the door guys do it...]

As far as replacing part of a damaged stud, you'll want to remove enough so that the pieces you put back aren't fragile lil baby pieces, and also stagger the heights so you can secure them easily with that KJJ.

[OK. Not sure what you mean by staggering the heights. You stumped me on the acronym...KJJ?]


Is there a vapor barrier in there somewhere? I see what might be some 6mil, but if it's just unfaced loose in wall cavities.. oi.

[Yes, there is vapor barrier - it is pulled to the left side. It's all grungy from the wood rot. I inadvertently cut it as I was removing the drywall. It was stapled to the studs. I plan on repairing it with some sort of tape - maybe that aluminum tape - that stuff seems durable and sticks to everything.

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Morgan:
Arc, you are correct. The 2x6 are undersized. Many of the home in NJ around lakes and rivers were summer vacation homes and not built for year round habitation. Over time people slowly converted them to full time living. Repairs are difficult on everything. Electric is the worst because of hidden junction boxes in the walls.

Apologies for the thread drift.

I would remove the door and jamb. Add a joist under the door. Even if you have to rip it to the same width allowing it to rest on the plate. Use the ledgerlocks like Arc said. I would add pieces of 2x10 perpendicular to the joists further locking it in place.
When you get to the point where you add the membrane, staple it so it stays put while you put the door in.