Thought this was a bit comical In a couple ways and glad the kid did not smash the dad with the sledge he was using as the pry bar.

They don't get paid unless the clip is a certain length. That's why so many of them have a lot of unnecessary BS talking in the beginning, they are padding the time.

As an ex-chef, there are a lot of cooking related ones that make me want to scream.

Yeah, the extra yammering is annoying too but I was referring to them doing one side at a time. Had they unbolted both sides the sway bar would easily rotate up, one would not have to pry the center plastic and bushings out, nor would they have use the nylon/fiberglass handled sledge hammer as a pry bar removing the risk of it popping out and smashing dad.
Also would have not supported the truck with the control arms. Would have used the frame rails behind the front tires.

1st gen Honda Ridgelines have a couple of common problems, headliner glue loses adhesive and hl must be replaced and the cable ratchet that retracts the rear seat legs is made of plastic and breaks. There is a replacement ratchet that is steel but youtube shows taking the entire seat out.

I bought the brackets a couple years ago but did not want to tackle the job - bungee cords worked fine, not correct but they did the job. When I had the RL in the upholstery shop getting the new headliner installed I asked about them also doing the seat retractor. They said probably not enough time on this appointment.

When I picked Ridgeline up next day rear seat legs were fixed. Installer said it was much simpler than the youtube video method.

I am relatively certain that most of us have "made due" when the proper tool was not available, but using a Crescent wrench because you "don't have any metric sockets," sheesh! I guess he doesn't have a torque wrench either, or is proper torque not critical in this application?

All you have to do is jack to frame up and let the suspension hang a bit more to get the links in. No bolt loosening or sway bar moving needed. Last week, I put new anti-sway bar links front and rear on the C5, easy peasy. On the C5, the nuts are selflocking, so even the GM spec is 53 ftlbs, the German spec, gutentight, works.

To answer the thread title question, yes I have. I watched a guy insulate his metal garage with 3” EPS panels and gave up after the third time I asked myself “Why would he do it that way?”

1. He installed the panels with deck screws and no washers.

2. He installed the panels horizontally from the top down. This required his daughter/helper to hold the panels up while he screwed them in with the deck screws and no washers. Had he installed the bottom up, gravity would have held the panel in place.

3. He cut the panels lengthwise using sawhorses, but when he got towards the end of his cut, he didn’t just shift the panel over the sawhorses to support both pieces. Instead, he had his daughter/helper attempt to hold the piece being cut off so it didn’t break off or bind the saw.

Some of the DIY videos aren't so helpful. I watched a few for changing fuel lines on my Homelite Ranger saw. The lines are polymer not rubber so stretching them through small ports atop the fuel tank is a no go deal. The videos suggest cutting a 45 degree angle on the hose ends, punching a tiny hole for a hooked wire to go in. Lube the hose end with 2 cycle oil and pull them down through the tanks top. Uh huh. The hook tears through the hose end and it never starts into the hole. Four attempts later, sore fingers from pulling on the wire, still no routed fuel lines. I found a on line topic of a Poulan owner installing 3.5mm lines through 3.0mm ports. Cut a angle 3/4" on the hose ends. Lube with 2 cycle oil and the feed right through. Reach in the tank with forceps or needle nose and pull the lines through as long as required. Install the fuel filter and wala! Five easy minutes work, reassemble the saw, gas it up and back to cutting.

I watched a show on some streaming service, 2 or 3 guys in a fully outfitted higher end Off Road 4x4 shop. Watched them fight with getting a front shock absorber off. Took them forever, they couldn't keep it from spinning while trying to get the top nut off. Prying, vice grips, maybe they eventually sawz-all'd it off, I don't remember. All while I'm yelling at the screen "Hey idiots, just break the top of the shock off!" (threaded end and nut)

I watched a few more minutes and shut it off, I figured if these guys don't know this, I don't want to learn anything else they try to show me.