Hello all,

Just wanted your opinion on a question I have. I have a 2013 rubicon with 70k miles so far. Recently I spotted under a slow leak on one of the rubber plugs near the oil pan.

Took it to a shop, confirmed is a slow slow leak on the bolt under that rubber cap. Said is the rear seal. I ordered the part, not expensive. I asked if I can still drive it around. He said that I should be but not wait too long.

Think I can take little more time before taking it in? Not really thrilled knowing that trans has to be taken down and all.

Sorry for the noob question. Most light work I do myself but stuff like these I rather have my tech do it.

Like any 'minor' oil or tranny fluid leak, you can wait as long as you like, so long as you closely monitor the fluid level and add whatever's needed.

I have an oil pan gasket leak on my F150. Thanks to Ford's "Better Idea", replacing that $12 gasket will eventually cost me close to $1,800. As such, it drips a little oil occasionally on the cardboard under it in the garage, and I check it (and fill if necessary) every few weeks. Been that way for the last couple years and ~15k miles.

Are they absolutely sure it's the rear seal? I have a 2014 Rubicon and also have a slow oil drip, but in my case it is most likely the oil filter housing (plastic junk) that is cracked which is a very common issue on these JK's. It very easily can be mistaken for a rear seal leak. My issue could still be the rear seal, but it's been almost a year now and hasn't gotten any worse so I'm 95% sure it's the oil filter housing.

The dealership quoted me $900 to replace the oil filter housing. I told them thanks and drove home. I did some research and decided that I would I perform the work myself. It's fairly involved but definitely doable.

Anyway, be sure to double check the source of the leak. If it is the Oil filter housing, you definitely have some time before it needs to be addressed.

If it's the rear seal, I'd also say that you have some time before it gets really bad, but who knows? And by that I'm thinking weeks and even perhaps a month or two depending on how much you drive it. You'll just notice it getting worse and worse.

Balze,

Funny you mentioned the filter. I did replaced new filter housing and rockers and lifters. So no oil in the top filter valley anymore. But i might convir on the rear seal since when i pull the rubber plug is where oil comes from. Yeah is really slow seep oil.

I know need to be worked on but i want to drive little bit more since getting like a rent car is not cheap.

quote:

Originally posted by Balzé Halzé:
Are they absolutely sure it's the rear seal? I have a 2014 Rubicon and also have a slow oil drip, but in my case it is most likely the oil filter housing (plastic junk) that is cracked which is a very common issue on these JK's. It very easily can be mistaken for a rear seal leak. My issue could still be the rear seal, but it's been almost a year now and hasn't gotten any worse so I'm 95% sure it's the oil filter housing.

'13 Rubicon owner here. This would be my first guess to. They leak in that exact spot. But since you already replaced that stuff and double checked (cheap replacements leak too).... I wouldn't have any issues driving it around for a limited time, but like mentioned, keep an eye on the fluid levels, and check the spot under the Jeep often.

Will do. I do check everyday but no drops on floor yet. Mechanic told me he told he has done this job many times so he knows the leak. Since this is a day job (if no other customer barges in for their cars) he told me to be safe if could be a week so he doesnt rush things and mess up.

Thanks for your inputs, i know a leak is not something to ignore but since it has not drop on the floor the leak i guess i can take it little bit on and check fluids. Funny the oil level still full so I guess I can wait it little bit.

Not a Jeep but my 2008 Ford Ranger Automatic with less then 40,000 miles started a very small leak from what looked like the rear seal. Oil needed changing and it stopped leaking once I changed the oil and hasn't leaked since.

I'd also check the PCV valve isn't stuck or clogged. That will make the crankcase pressurized and leak.
I don't know about your car but on most they are easy to replace and inexpensive.
Maybe watch a youtube video on your car.

Not sure about your model year 3.6 but I know that Dorman makes a metal replacement filter housing for the earlier ones. Despite it being made in China it might be worth looking into.

During the lockdown of course my change oil light came on so I did it at home. The filter cap was on there way too tight,I think it was the way of the asshole at the dealership to get back at me. Thought I was going to break the filter housing removing the cap.

He put the wrong weight oil in the engine and I refused to take my Jeep until they drained and refilled it with the correct spec oil. Thing that lit my fuse is that the tech and the writer tried to bullshit their way out of it.

Mistakes are made, I worked in dealerships for close to a half century, you admit you are wrong and move on. After ten minutes of back and forth I said “Show me the TSB and I’ll go away”. At that point the writer said “ Give me your keys”

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Like any 'minor' oil or tranny fluid leak, you can wait as long as you like, so long as you closely monitor the fluid level and add whatever's needed.

Agreed. If it leaves a few drips or drops, it isn't a safety problem. If it runs out in a steady stream and leaves puddles on the ground, then it is. Only you can decide if or when it gets bad enough.

I might also mention that, in general, it is pretty uncommon for one-piece rear main seals to leak, and I have yet to see one on the 3.6. Be sure it really is the rear main. Other leaks can easily be mistaken for it. These seals only leak when the engine is running and the oil pressurized and flowing. If the leak occurs with the engine running, then slows down and eventually stops after shutdown (this may take a while), it may well be the rear main. If the leak appears after the engine is shut off, suspect an oil pan gasket. This is because the oil level rises in the pan to the level of the pan flange.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,

I’ve never had occasion to try this but I’ve often read mention of trying high-mileage motor oil. Some say the seal conditioners in it may stop leaks.

I would try to determine the size/quantity of the leak. If it's a slow leak, just how much added oil ($/week) would it take to recoup the cost of the repair. If you're able to keep the oil level at the right spot, isn't that cheaper?

Lastly, I had a massive mysterious oil leak on my 02 Honda Odyssey that I couldn't diagnose. Finally broke down and took it to the dealership. $1100 later with a new seal, it still leaked. Took it back. They then said the rear head leaked and need to redo the head bolts for $1500-2500. I said no thanks. I decided for $1000, I'd but a used engine in it.

Drove that car for another 60K and 8 years until it was totaled last summer do to non-moving accident. Whatever.

thanks again for the help guys. Well, so far not a drop on the floor. Oil level still same and full.



I already ordered the seal. As far as the PCV valve I replaced it last year too. That's the thing about Jeeps, it never ends with the fixing and replacing stuff.

I will keep eye on the levels but I am sure after the July festivities I will dive into it.