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Just because you are doing pads doesn't mean you have to do the rotors, they can be easily checked to be sure they are within spec. Toyota has a discard tolerance, as do all manufacturers, so if they are well within their specifications, and not warped there isn't a reason to replace them. A little research on 4Runners yields the following: Toyota 4Runner Brake Rotor Specifications 1985–1995 (4WD): Front Vented, ~289mm diameter, 64.5mm height, 6-bolt, 18mm discard thickness. 1995–2004 (4WD): Front Vented, ~296.8mm diameter, 70.3mm height, 6-bolt, 20mm discard thickness. 2003–2009 (17" Wheels): Front Vented, 338mm diameter. 2010–2024 (Gen 5): Front Vented, 6-bolt, heavy-duty cast iron. Rear Rotors (General): Commonly vented or solid depending on year, with newer models often having a 16.0mm minimum discard thickness. | |||
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Even if the rotors check out to be ok, chances are they won’t out last a new pair of pads. They are made thinner these days and can’t be cut. Always replace the rotors when you replace the pads. OEM pads are a must. Order them online. I get the same amount of life from NAPA rotors compared to OEM rotors when using OEM pads. | |||
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My Tundra's back oem rotors had warped enough to be annoying at about 62k. I followed Black92's advice from a while back and installed Akebono pads and Advic rotors. Smooth sailing. | |||
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| Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us |
I have yet to come across a single rotor that is not been able to be turned once. But I also only buy good quality rotors, not junk. Only place left turning them around me are up to $30 a rotor. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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| Stupid Allergy ![]() |
The rotors on a 4Runner most certainly do not need to be trashed when replacing pads. They’re quite capable of being turned if needed. As for Toyota branded pads, you want: Toyota Factory Replacement *not* “Maintenance pads” When you see a brake special going on at a Toyota dealership for $199 per axle it’s because they are using the cheaper “maintenance pads”. Personally I would not use NAPA pads, just find another dealer/mechanic that won’t rip you off. "Attack life, it's going to kill you anyway." Steve McQueen... | |||
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This is the absolute best advice, that can not be improved.
__________________________ Keep your rotor in the green The aircraft in trim Your time over target short Make it count | |||
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Seeker of Clarity![]() |
I've allowed myself to be tempted by non-OEM pads and rotors twice in my life. Bot times I've been disappointing. I am certain that low-cost aftermarket parts are lesser than OEM in most if not all cases. I imagine that there are premium high performance aftermarket components that might be as good or better, but then you get in to another set of variables and questions. | |||
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| Page late and a dollar short |
Most dealers use Matrix Pricing instead of MSRP. Per the manufacturer’s agreements the prices the OEM publishes are suggested only, dealers can price at MSRP, above or below, whatever suits them. Matrix Pricing if you are not familiar is a sliding scale that increases the sale price usually on all items but o a sliding scale more heavily weighed to lower priced items, they se the highest percentage jump. The theory being that it takes the same amount of time and effort to make a sale of a one dollar item as it does to sell a one thousand dollar part but with a huge difference in actual dollars brought in. In theory it is supposed to even it out somewhat. Personally I don’t have any problem with using certain aftermarket parts vs. OEM. My Wrangler goes through MOPAR rear brakes at about the same lifespan as any quality aftermarket ones at less price. The OEM vs. aftermarket debate has been going on for years. For example I priced an engine oil pan for our Liberty, my discounted price (still have a couple connections in dealerships) from Mopar is $141.90, Dorman price was $63.02, oil pan gasket was $80.19, a Fel-Pro was $25.00. I draw the line at using non OEM electronic parts. Never had good luck with them so I stay with OEM. We replaced the plastic engine oil cooler in my Wrangler with a Dorman brand that is made of aluminum. I understand that Chrysler now offers an aluminum replacement for the 3.6’s, a definite step up in my opinion. I don’t know about Toyota, only worked in a Toyota parts setting for a couple of years once the late 80’s but watch the OEM’s, sometimes they will have different quality levels at different pricing. GM has been doing this, while I was still in they had a secondary brake component line called Dura Stop under the Delco name. It seemed to be good quality and actually my Sierra pickup had a little better brake pad life with those over the OEM’s. -------------------------------------—————— ————————--Ignorance is a powerful tool if applied at the right time, even, usually, surpassing knowledge(E.J.Potter, A.K.A. The Michigan Madman) | |||
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Did that dealer $450 include parts and labor ? I’d do it. I’m too old to spend 2-4 hours on my knees and getting grimey. If your local guy is cheaper all in I’d go with him. But get the ORM parts. I have a mobile mechanic who comes to my house to do the work. he’s a Toyota guy and I have 2 Toyotas so we are simpatico. He really encourages OEM parts and even insisted OEM rear differential oil. Motor oil I think he likes mobile 1 premium synthetic. Anyway. He charges by the hour strait labor in my driveway. He lets me buy whatever parts I want or he will order but has to collect sales tax on the parts he resells even if he bought it at Walmart on the way to my house. So he tellls me what to buy and i buy it and then we schedule a time. He also knows his limitations tools wise. Doesn’t do deep internal engine or trans work. But starters and alternators no prob. | |||
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| Honor and Integrity |
When I changed pads on my 4Runner, I also replaced the rotors. I don't have a place near me that I'd trust to turn my rotors. Even using my parts discount, the Toyota OEM pads and rotors were way out of line in pricing. I went through NAPA and picked up Akebono Ultra Premium pads, and Brembo rotors. I was going to go with the Adaptive One Performance rotors, but they were more than the Brembo. Plus, they were on back order. So far I'm very satisfied with the braking. | |||
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Member![]() |
I'll add BAM Wholesale to the list of non-dealer, OEM parts suppliers. https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/ Politicians seem to have forgotten that they work for us, not the other way around. — — — — — — — — — — — — God bless America. | |||
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" like i said,....i didn't build it, i didn't buy it, and i didn't break it." | |||
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I have a 2019 4runner and recently replaced the front and rear pads and rotors with the Powerstop Z36 kit. Would recommend. The whole kit was about $450. | |||
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| 7.62mm Crusader |
This gave me cause for concern so, my set of Thermo Quiets are made in Mexico. I won't use them. Purchased through Rock Auto so I'm not out too much money. I will go buy the OEM pads next week. I despise that 3rd world shit hole of a border country and will not spend another dollar for any product coming across our border. | |||
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