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Long term parking on wood blocks

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May 23, 2017, 08:38 AM
Johnny 3eagles
Long term parking on wood blocks
Modern RV refrigerator operation doesn't require exact level. The rule of thumb is: if you are comfortable inside the RV, the 'fridge will operate just fine.

My procedure to determine level was to place a circular bubble level in a frying pan on the stove. If my eggs were going to be happy (not running to the side of the pan), I would be as well.

Most concrete RV pads are not level, hence the use of boards to get side to side level, then use the hydraulic levelers for front to back level.

We traveled in our 38 foot DRV Elite Suite 5th wheel and previous Avion 38 foot 5th wheel for 8 years.




If you're goin' through hell, keep on going.
Don't slow down. If you're scared don't show it.
You might get out before the devil even knows you're there.


NRA ENDOWMENT LIFE MEMBER
May 23, 2017, 08:56 AM
jimmy123x
quote:
Originally posted by OKCGene:
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x:
quote:
Originally posted by smlsig:
quote:
Originally posted by OKCGene:
RV's have to be very close to level to get their Absorption style Refrigerators to work properly and not fail. Those are refrigerators that run on propane. Blocks may be used to level it when the RV doesn't have leveling jacks.


Winner, winner chicken dinner...


OK, but why would someone want the propane refrigerator running if someone has it parked in their driveway for months and months at a time. Most of the time I see owners use jack stands so their is no weight on the tires. This also allows them to level it if they want.


They may also wish to use the their RV while in so called storage, the jacks provide stability, you should walk around or try to sleep in one while parked and not stabilized by jacks. There are different issues, questions and answers.


However, for example, hydraulic jacks can bleed down and leave the RV unlevel. Absorption refrigerators when not being used, and left unlevel, will fail if left that way. Period. The gas and chemical will settle away from the pilot light. When the owner tries to relight and operate the fridge, the heat applied won't be in the right place and the settled blockage won't separate and flow. You have to understand there is no compressor like your home fridge. It's new $$$ fridge time.

Bottom line, RV fridges are expensive as well as all the labor to remove and then install a new one. Preventive proper storage is much better.

And that's just the way absorption refrigerators operate.

And of course, there may be other reasons why someone uses blocks. Just ask them why.

I'm just saying that if you have an absorption fridge, you'd better learn how and why to take care of it, or you'll be paying lots of $$$.

(Then we can get into more expensive RV fridges that can also operate on 12 volt, 120 volt as well as the traditional.)

If you want to learn more, go to RV.net and join. There's more info there than I care to type out here.


I don't buy this. I'm in the yachting industry and they use propane refrigerators on sailboats that are at all sorts of crazy angles under sail and the refrigerators work fine and I never hear of issues with them. I don't deal with propane refrigerators on the yachts, all of ours are electric as we have plenty of battery charging ability via large alternators, a generator,inverter bank, or shorepower.