I have a 2.7 liter / 4 speed auto Toyota Tacoma. I am asking for a sanity check on using it to tow a trailer.

Some sources say it could tow up to a 3,500 lb trailer. I am impressed with how many members here have experience in this area and want to know how advisable this plan is.

Describe the trailer.

That you are asking, pretty well indicates the advisability of it - barring something very small with limited drag

Yes, tow but I would keep it under 2k for towing often

I have a 98 Taco with the 2.7- I can load firewood in the bed until it looks like a low rider and it rolls along fairly well (albeit sluggishly) but towing is a different beast obviously.

Towing really depends on three factors.

1. Can the vehicle safely pull the weight from a dead stop, without overworking the transmission?

2. Can the vehicle stop the load from travel speeds, without overworking the brakes?

3. Can the vehicle maintain speed without overworking the engine?

For your vehicle, the limits of 1 and 2 are determined by the manufacture to to be a max combined weight (Trailer and load) of 3500lbs.

The limits of 3 are determined by the type of trailer and the type of driving.
- A small trailer (750lbs) with a compact load (2500lbs of paving bricks) on flat ground? No issues.
- A boxy trailer with winds, or a lot of driving uphill? I'd get a bigger truck.

It's a common sense thing. Small vehicles can tow small trailers. Jet skis, small boats, single axle utility trailers, and similar.

To tow larger trailers you need a larger vehicle.

What are you looking to tow?

quote:

Originally posted by John Steed:
Some sources say it could tow up to a 3,500 lb trailer.

To hell with what "some sources say." What does the manufacturer say?

The "common wisdom" I read, when I was looking into this when I was considering towing with the vehicle I had at the time, was not to exceed 90% of the manufacturer's rating.

Member Gibb pretty much nailed it, IMO.

Additionally, you have to consider the terrain over which you'll be towing. Flat or mostly flat-ish terrain is one thing. Mountainous terrain is something else entirely. Inclines vastly increase load on the drive train and declines greatly increase the demands on the brakes.

E.g.: You don't want to be towing at or near capacity, headed down a long decline, and find you need to stop relatively quickly.

Is the truck set up to tow anything? Just having a hitch doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a good idea. Stay well below the rated capacity. If it’s a short distance you’ll probably be okay. If there’s a significant amount of stop and go involved you absolutely should be easy with it. Does the transmission have a cooler? You don’t want to overheat it and either bugger up the gears or heat the fluid up to the point that it’s molasses. Toyotas will haul more than they should. Be careful.

quote:

Originally posted by ensigmatic:
The "common wisdom" I read, when I was looking into this when I was considering towing with the vehicle I had at the time, was not to exceed 90% of the manufacturer's rating.

Personally, given that engine, and that my father owns the same truck, I would highly recommend not towing more than maybe 60% of max capacity if you want it to behave well. That motor is not a torque giant, and towing anything really heavy behind it would not be a pleasant experience.

quote:

Originally posted by Leemur:
Is the truck set up to tow anything? Just having a hitch doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a good idea. Stay well below the rated capacity.

That is another consideration. Is the truck equipped with a towing package from the factory, or will the OP be adding a hitch and wiring? Is the towing capacity based on that model with a towing package, or without? It can make a difference. Factory towing packages sometimes include more than just a hitch and wiring. (E.g.: Bigger brakes, enhanced drive train cooling, etc.)

In case no one has asked , what kind and size of trailer are we talking about? If you want to tow something like a U-Haul trailer, even a large one, across town or something like that, no problem. A big camper trailer over long distances and/or up and down steep grades is a different matter. So might a boat up a steep launching ramp. A four/auto is unlikely to have an auxiliary cooler.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore,

Sooo...

What is the gcvwr of the truck. It is posted on the B pillar or the side of the drivers door. Without that we are all pissing in the wind.

Work got in the way of a more timely response ...
Thanks to BigSwede, Gibb, Leemur, and Bigdeal for giving good answers to a less than perfect question.

More information:
1. This Taco has no factory-installed tow package.
2. The truck's manual says Trailer Weight Rating = 3,500 lbs.
3. From the sticker inside the door:
GVWR = 5,100 lbs.
GAWR FRT = 2,755 lbs.
GAWR RR = 3,000 lbs.

What trailer?
I have a small utility trailer which I want to tow around town.
Lately I have been thinking of buying a 13 foot Scamp camping trailer which the factory lists at 1,500 lbs., empty.
The Scamp will have brakes.
Naturally, I am wondering if my Taco could handle towing such a Scamp.

The current SAE std. for trailer rating system is very tough. And Toyota is pretty conservative. You will absolutely have no issues towing either of those two trailers.

quote:

Lately I have been thinking of buying a 13 foot Scamp camping trailer which the factory lists at 1,500 lbs., empty. The Scamp will have brakes.

I can't imagine this being a problem for the truck. It might be a little slow on steep uphill grades. Shift the transmission manually to 3rd gear (overdrive button on the shifter) if it has to shift excessively ("hunting). If it doesn't have an auxiliary transmission cooler, I'd add one if you're going to tow it at all extensively. These plumb into the transmission return line from the radiator. Bypassing the radiator cooler altogether may make the transmission run too cool.

Another factor is distance, terrain, length of tow, and driver experience.

I see you’re in MI. If we’re talking reasonable distances, with some experience, a lot better than planning a Yellowstone trip.

I have a relative that used to ‘over-tow’ with his Ford Ranger. He was a former logger & trucker, never had a problem. With that in mind, there is a ‘gray area’ in the middle. Then we have some that shouldn’t be towing anything.

If a VW can tow it, so can your truck

 
I have that same engine in my 2010 Tacoma, with a 5 speed manual. I have a Big-Tex utility trailer (single axle), that is rated at 3500 lbs. The trailer itself is ~1000 lbs. I mostly haul brush and other large trash to the local transfer station.

Typically with that weight rating one would use a Class 2 receiver, with a 1.25" x 1.25" opening. I had a Class 4 receiver installed (2" x 2" opening), not because I wanted to push the towing weight, but because almost all hitch accessories are easier to find in that size (bike racks, platforms, etc). The most I've ever towed (loaded trailer) was just over 2500 lbs (based on the scales at the transfer station).
 
I do stay out of 5th gear (overdrive) when towing.

You won’t have a problem with a Scamp. Towing in overdrive is bad for your transmission and if you avoid it you will be fine.

“● To maintain engine braking efficiency and charging system performance when using engine braking, do not use fifth gear (5-speed manual transmission), sixth gear (6-speed manual transmission), or do not put the transmission in D (automatic transmission).”

http://www.ttguide.net/trailer_towing-80.html