Our house is over 100 years old. The addition that contains the master bedroom was built in 1955, so even that is over 60 years old. Further, it was built by less than meticulous builders. Between age and construction techniques of the time, nothing is square, plumb or level any more.

The floors are tongue-and-groove fir and there's a fair bit of ocean motion and slightly open joints between the boards in spots.

We had the MBR carpeted several years ago and between things moving and age, the carpet is loose and bunching up in spots. We could have it re-stretched, but it's also sun faded and we're thinking new floor. As nice as a warm carpet is on a Winter morning, we're not happy with the longevity or appearance.

My first thought is a floating "click lock" vinyl plank floor with a barrier/pad under it and some throw rugs. I'd prefer not to spend a lot of time and money tightening and leveling the existing fir floor. Ideally, I'd like to rip out the carpet, take care of any significant structural issues, flop the barrier pad down and snap the new floor in. Due to wife's allergies/sensitivities, I can NOT use a glue-down product.

Anybody been there/done that? Workable, or a bad idea?

I wouldn't use that stuff in general (not from experience, just a resale value thing). I certainly would not use it on a moving substrate. Personally I would refinish the wood, then if desired add carpet runner or area rug. Much higher resale value and in my mind will look great especially with older wood. Pine does take stain weird, but I think it still looks great.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
I wouldn't use that stuff in general (not from experience, just a resale value thing). I certainly would not use it on a moving substrate. Personally I would refinish the wood, then if desired add carpet runner or area rug. Much higher resale value and in my mind will look great especially with older wood. Pine does take stain weird, but I think it still looks great.

Appreciate the input. I don't recall how good/bad the fir was before we put the carpet down. Sanding/staining/polyurethane may be an option.

Resale value is a non-issue. They'll lug us out of this house in body bags and the kids can deal with resale.

Aside from the durability and tile/stone for the main areas. I like the click lock vinyl flooring. It's more durable than the real wood flooring or bamboo or any of those, it's cheap and looks great if you get some of the good ones. It's also dimensionally stable and humidity and temperature don't have much effect on it. You can't leave standing water on it, it will destroy it like most other flooring). The KEY is the use a premium underlayment, not the cheap ones and you won't have any movement on it or noise. I have a 100lb Doberman/Rottweiler and it still looks perfect without a scratch on it. I have one bedroom I did in 2015 and the other was done in 2002 and still looks good. The bedroom I did,was because I did have a flood, but cost was not an option and I decided to go back with laminate.


I used the ECO Ultra quiet premium underlayment from floor and décor ($0.65 sq foot),

https://www.flooranddecor.com/...4200254.html#start=2

And the wildwood Sumatra teak ($0.59 sq foot)

https://www.flooranddecor.com/...4101077.html#start=1

We have Mohawk viny plank throughout our home. I like it. Plus when I drop shit it doesn’t break....the realtor and builder suggested ceramic flooring referencing re sale...

I know Mike, Mike will drop shit. So vinyl it was.

High end floating vinyl is suppose to "the" latest and greatest now days.
I can't recommend any specific brand but let your taste figure it out.
My floating/locking laminate has got to go and this type is on my short list.
I think it is a great idea.
Good Luck

I've got the vinyl planks in my house, and the only downside I've found is that it's fairly easy to scratch. You have to be careful when moving furniture around. Other than that, I love ours.

Thanks for all the input, much appreciated.

At this point, the plan (once cooler weather arrives) is to pull up the carpet, assess what's under it and then decide whether to refinish or go with a vinyl overlay.

I've actually used the Pergo snap in floor system and it's a well engineered product that is pretty darned wear resistant. Yeah, it won't produce the resale value of a true hardwood floor but it also doesn't carry the maintenance load of a true hardwood floor. IMO a snap in floor should be regarded as an equivalent to carpet that is hard, good looking, and disposable in the event someone wants something different.

The downside to a snap in floor is that if you are installing one you will find new muscles in both your back and thighs. When I put mine it I swear I was standing up and getting down again for every single piece layed. As a result once it was in and finished both thighs ached like the blazes for at least 5 days. Hint here is don't try doing it all in just one weekend because if you do you may need an electric scooter to just get to the bathroom.

We have Armstrong Pryzm only down 2 years and so far, so good. Going from tile to the vinyl planks made the floor warm in the winter. No more cold feet. The planks look very nice also.

If your old floor has dips & valleys, I’d keep carpet in that area. Planks will show the dips & valleys unless you level the floor.

We just put some down on a smaller project over concrete. It was pretty easy to put down. I personally like it. But have no long term experience. But my initial opinion is very positive. I would use it again. I think you would like it. Looks great too. Ours was just under $3 a square foot.

We just ripped out all the carpet in our condo and put down "luxury vinyl flooring." Looks amazing. Wish I did it years ago.

If the wood is still thick enough for refinish, and you go that route I want to see before and after shots.

My biggest regret from redoing my hardwoods was that I only did main areas and recarpeted bedrooms. Cost was the same +/- pennies. Thought I wanted warm feel in bedroom. Nope bad choice. My 55 year old hardwoods refinished 8 years ago look great. Carpet is trashed, needs to be replaced. Got the primo pad and good carpet, worn in high traffic areas (entrance to rooms and desks). I will never have carpet on main levels, stairs, or bedrooms again, basement only.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
If the wood is still thick enough for refinish, and you go that route I want to see before and after shots.

My biggest regret from redoing my hardwoods was that I only did main areas and recarpeted bedrooms. Cost was the same +/- pennies. Thought I wanted warm feel in bedroom. Nope bad choice. My 55 year old hardwoods refinished 8 years ago look great. Carpet is trashed, needs to be replaced. Got the primo pad and good carpet, worn in high traffic areas (entrance to rooms and desks). I will never have carpet on main levels, stairs, or bedrooms again, basement only.

Now's your chance to refinish the wood that's under all of that carpet.

I wish. Just started prep for kitchen tear out. Set shelving in basement; set up temp sink in laundry room; cleared out and cleaned laundry room cabinets for temp kitchen; cleared kitchen cabs; and laid down Masonite over tile. Tomorrow I tear out cabinets and shim floor underneath to level of tile. If I have time left, then backsplash comes off too. If somehow I get super productive I'll start electrical - two additional outlets and adding under cabinet lighting.

I'm maxed out plus+ financially right now, will be getting carpets cleaned and long term soultion pushed back a year. Was hoping to do whole kitchen cash. Nope we are borrowing at least $6k maybe as much as $10k.

Homeownership sucks.

My brother works at HD. When they built a new restaurant in town, we were in there and he mentioned, oh we sell this flooring. Years later, it's worn like iron.

I have a sunroom that I plan to do with the version that includes the foam backing (Lifeproof or something like that). I chose vinyl because if the sliding doors are left open, rain may get on the floor. Essentially it's a closed in deck with plywood on top. It will see wide temp variation and at times, possibly insane humidity. So, no brainer. $700 and a few hours to get it down. It'll be done in about a week (special order color). If you can wait, I'm happy to give my insights, impressions and photos.

I have Duralux and love it.

We put it down throughout our living room, dining room and breakfast area about a year ago. We tore up wood plank flooring to do it.

I researched the hell out of it and here is my advice. Don't go cheap or you will hear it when you walk on it. We went with CoreTec Logic by US Floors. Runs about $4 something a foot. Make sure it has a cork backing.

Install is pretty straight forward. We absolutely love it. Easy to maintain (100% waterproof) and beautiful to look at and is rock solid when you walk on it.

I don't know about vinyl floating floors, but the cork floating floor I did had a spec for how flat the floor the cork was going over had to be. You should look at the installation instructions for the product you are considering.

quote:

Originally posted by r0gue:

I have a sunroom that I plan to do with the version that includes the foam backing (Lifeproof or something like that). I chose vinyl because if the sliding doors are left open, rain may get on the floor. Essentially it's a closed in deck with plywood on top. It will see wide temp variation and at times, possibly insane humidity. So, no brainer. $700 and a few hours to get it down. It'll be done in about a week (special order color). If you can wait, I'm happy to give my insights, impressions and photos.

Thank you, I'd appreciate that! Don't plan to do anything before mid-September at the earliest. Too dang hot ...