My ridgeline won't lock with the fob or at the lock on the door. When I close the door I hear two attempts of the lock. But everything seems to be dead. Do I have a bad actuator maybe?

I've never had a problem other than replacing a battery. Does your door switch still operate the lock?

You mean you cannot manually lock the door either?

Have had this, or a similar issue with my 2003 Pilot and 2012 CRV. Both had over 235,000 miles when the issue appeared.

One of my locks is not locking, which prevents them all from locking. Interestingly enough, it does not happen every time, but quite often.

I know there is an issue when I hit the lock on my key and I do not hear the horn.

Then I look for the offending door lock. Most often it is the driver door or right rear passenger door. I manually lock the door and then they will all lock with the next hit of the lock button on the key fob.

I also experience this sometimes, not quite as often, when unlocking. I simply use the key to unlock the Driver door and then can use the unlock button on the key.

This drives my family crazy. I simply tell them it is an additional security feature.

I have replace the batteries in both keys, so I believe it is an issue with the actuator, which is above my pay grade.

I hope this helps.

quote:

Originally posted by doublesharp:
I've never had a problem other than replacing a battery. Does your door switch still operate the lock?

nope.

quote:

Originally posted by P250UA5:
You mean you cannot manually lock the door either?

I can pull up or push down the knob if that is what you are asking.
I can use the key from the outside. Other than those two things, nada.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:

My ridgeline won't lock with the fob or at the lock on the door. When I close the door I hear two attempts of the lock. But everything seems to be dead. Do I have a bad actuator maybe?

I recently bought a 2020 Ford Escape. Got it home and found that the driver door, rear passenger door, and hatchback locks all worked normally. Front passenger side door and rear driver side door would not lock, no matter what I tried. Three out of five ain't bad.

Vehicle is a Ford CPO, so everything is warrantied. I texted the sales dude to make arrangements for a loaner while this problem was being worked on. Sales dude proceeded to 'splain how I was doing it wrong. Kind of pissed me off, so I drove to the dealer, insisted that the sales dude AND the sales manager try the following ways to lock the doors:

1. Key fob
   
   
2. Phone app
   
   
3. Locking button on driver door
   
   
4. Locking button on front passenger door
   
   
5. Pressing the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons on the external keypad
   
   
6. Pressing the touch-sensitive area of the driver door external handle
   
   
7. Pressing the touch-sensitive area of the front passenger side door external handle
   
   
8. Driving at a speed greater than 12 mph (20 kph)

Every one of these methods resulted in the three functional doors locking properly, while there was no way to lock the two malfunctioning doors. They wanted to make an appointment for the following week. I said, "Nope! My wife is not going to drive around in a vehicle that can't be locked. She does not want to have a pistol on her lap as protection against car-jackers or road-ragers. We are well within the fourteen day "no questions asked" return period, so I am not leaving here in a car that will not lock. You can get it fixed while I wait, you can hang on to it for as long as it takes to fix it, and stop the 14-day return clock while you have it and give me a loaner now, or you can keep it and refund every penny that I paid. Pick one."

Repair department did not have any loaners available, they were all in use, so sales manager gave me a sales demo. They contacted me a few days later and told me that my Escaape was ready to be picked up. I asked the service tech what he found. Nothing was broken, the actuators were just not connected in the two non-functioning doors. Once he had the interior panel open, it took him a few seconds to spot the problem and make the connection.

Good for you V-tail. I like how you splained everything to the experts at the Ford dealership and expressed how customer service is correctly administered.
Seem's like they learned a valuable lesson. At least one can hope.

Here is a link to Ridgeline Forum and search results for actuator problems. Seems to be a known problem.

https://www.ridgelineownersclu...actuator&o=relevance

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:

Good for you V-tail. I like how you splained everything to the experts at the Ford dealership and expressed how customer service is correctly administered. Seem's like they learned a valuable lesson. At least one can hope.

They are car salesmen. They're not going to learn anything (Sorry, BigSwede, you might be an exception). For every customer who calls them out on their bullshit, there will be fifty or a hundred who just go along with them. I'm not going to do that. First, I'll make sure that I'm on solid ground and really know what I'm talking about. If I can't do that, I'll keep my mouth shut. But if I have checked it all out and know that I'm correct, I won't back down, not an inch, not a millimeter.

My actuator never fully failed, but when I sold my Gen 1 Ridgeline after 10 years and ~120k miles, you could tell the driver door lock actuator was getting tired. In the last year or two I had it, it had started to make a noticeably louder whirring/whining/complaining noise when triggered, though it still worked every time.

Thanks guys, helpful as usual
It is due for a service. I will add this to the work order. Appreciate the help.

Im closing in on 150,000 miles on my 2013 and it has not been a problem yet. But thanks to this thread I will now watch.