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Long story short. I discovered a gas line leak in my attic. I have a 1" supply line of CSST connected to a manifold that has 6 valves/lines. 1 line from the manifold to the water heater has a leak. I had a gas company tech diagnose this, so it's not a guess. I can and have shut that line off. I still have gas running to my furnaces, etc.

As part of the diagnosis we determined that the leak was in the attic and not the garage where the water heater is.

So here is my question. Can I just replace a section of the line with two couplers? My first estimate which is to replace and reroute a 60' run for $7700 or just a 20' section for $3100. Both I consider outrageous.

I'm already up there installing insulation and cleaning up the messes left behind by the builder 22 years ago, I don't see this as impossible. I'm aware of the bonding requirements of CSST.

Thanks.
TVz

Question:
So is this a DIY thing or not? What am I missing?

Choices:
Careful and cautious DIY
Get more estimates and get a pro

 
 
Posts: 438 | Location: North of DFW | Registered: May 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
CSST



It's going to be at a fitting not in the line, I can't for the life of me figure out why 'they' would want to replace the whole line.

The fittings are a little temperamental in getting them just right with having to cut the flex pipe perfectly on the outer rim and keep it fairly smooth then there is a way when connecting it to what ever that one section has to be kept from turning while you tighten the other and this pushes the sleeve against the inner rubber gasket without tearing it. 65lb is what you want to stop at.

With just a very minor gas leak you would swear you are going to either blow yourself up or die*. First natural gas and propane both have no odor and a chemical is added to give it that smell. there is a specific ratio between the gas and oxygen that is needed for a bad thing to happen. 2nd, neither is toxic the only way you can die from breathing it is to displace the oxygen in the room. The reality is if you are semi handy and do some research and can run a water line that only leaks some little bit then you should be able to run a gas line that is tight... there is only 2lbs of pressure in it.


My Native American Name:
"Runs with Scissors"
 
Posts: 4441 | Location: Greenville, SC | Registered: January 30, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Thank you
Very little
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I'd get a few more estimates and ask them why not just the fitting and fix the joint vs the whole line needs replaced.
 
Posts: 24667 | Location: Gunshine State | Registered: November 07, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Blume9mm. The line goes across the attic floor through a wall header right at the roof line. It then routes down the wall shared by the garage and dining room. There is no smell in the garage attic or garage. Just the attic in the area where the line crosses the attic floor. The assumption is that a roof nail is what damaged the line when the roof was replaced this summer and it just now ruptured. BUT, here is the catch. They didn't find the exact point of the leak. Just "somewhere over here". It feels a lot like they are making up a high dollar job when it shouldn't be.

-TVz
 
Posts: 438 | Location: North of DFW | Registered: May 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Firearms Enthusiast
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If it were mine I would pressurize the line from the cut-off header to the water heater by entering at the water heater connection and locate the damn leak so you know what is leaking.

Start with 5-10 psi and soapy water in a spray bottle.

If its indeed from a nail caused by the previous re-roofing I would be all over my insurance company to handle the issue. Going back on the re-roofing claim and or the roofer.

Your lucky your head didn't get blowed off!
 
Posts: 18225 | Location: South West of Fort Worth, Tx. | Registered: December 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
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Replace fitting, pressure test, reconnect line.

If it's the CSST (really unlikely without physical damage) cut out section and replace it, pressure test, reconnect line.

While you are at it confirm it's properly bonded. It can be bonded at the last section of pipe before it changes to CSST or at the first brass fitting at the beginning of CSST run.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 21342 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Optimistic Cynic
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Sounds like a job for the Flexseal guy! (j/k)
 
Posts: 6945 | Location: NoVA | Registered: July 22, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I'll be heading to HD to pick up a pressure gauge after dinner.

[soapbox] It just pisses me off that they can't just make a reasonable estimate. They didn't just price themselves out of a job today. They are on don't call back list for good. I'd be more than willing to pay for the hourly rate cost and parts, but to just make up stuff to throw and extra zero on the end - fuck off." [off my box]

Thanks Guys for helping confirm my perspective.
-TVz
 
Posts: 438 | Location: North of DFW | Registered: May 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Someone bid the job high because he really doesn't want it, and if you DO accept his bid it is going to be "worth his while" to do it.
There is a certain amount of liability working on gas lines that makes it premium work sometimes.
As stated above pressure test and find the leak. If it is in the line and not the fitting, just cut out the bad spot and install a coupling.


NRA Life member
NRA Certified Instructor
"Our duty is to serve the mission, and if we're not doing that, then we have no right to call what we do service" Marcus Luttrell
 
Posts: 1118 | Location: Holland, OH | Registered: May 07, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Time to ask around to find a reputable company.

Then call said company to locate the leak and make repairs.




 
Posts: 10062 | Registered: October 15, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For the price the folks quoted... and if it is a nail in the line I like the suggestion of discounting that line and pressurizing it ...even with just air and finding the exact leak... at 20-30lbs of pressure from a compressor you should be able to find the hole for sure. And just like with a fitting then just cut and splice it....


My Native American Name:
"Runs with Scissors"
 
Posts: 4441 | Location: Greenville, SC | Registered: January 30, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Time to ask around to find a reputable company.

Then call said company to locate the leak and make repairs.


This is getting harder to do these days.


-TVz
 
Posts: 438 | Location: North of DFW | Registered: May 01, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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