BTW shovelhead, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

A lot of dealers now use matrix pricing instead of MSRP. I can see both sides of the story as parts department pay plans usually have some sort of departmental commission plan included.

The one thing that I want to make a point about is the online dealers that are selling genuine parts at a crazy discount. You don't get something for nothing and a dealer is not going to stay in business long with a 2-3% markup on parts or retain professional people if they cannot be paid commensurate to their experience. Watch the shipping and handling charges, that's where many times they make it up. Aftermarket parts, different ball game, O.E. was my game.

quote:

Originally posted by shovelhead:
A lot of dealers now use matrix pricing instead of MSRP. I can see both sides of the story as parts department pay plans usually have some sort of departmental commission plan included.

The one thing that I want to make a point about is the online dealers that are selling genuine parts at a crazy discount. You don't get something for nothing and a dealer is not going to stay in business long with a 2-3% markup on parts or retain professional people if they cannot be paid commensurate to their experience. Watch the shipping and handling charges, that's where many times they make it up. Aftermarket parts, different ball game, O.E. was my game.

I have also seen them sell OLD parts, stuff that's been sitting on the shelf for 5 years and they just want to get their cost out for new parts that will sell. Ok for some things, not so ok for anything with rubber or plastic in it.

The longer a part remains on the shelf, the greater chance that it will never sell. Most DMS (dealer management systems) have reports listing parts with no sale for "X" amount of days. GM manages inventory of it's dealers in concert with the dealer's in-house system via their own system and there are incentives (aka money) from the factory to stay current.

I'd do this first.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Try cleaning the air intake throat.

98 still has the aluminum intake?

Just a lament but I long for the days when the CCC (Computerized Command Control) system on carbureted GM cars could be "quick and dirty" tested by disconnecting the four wire connector to the distributor thereby taking the CCC system out of the engine management loop.

quote:

Originally posted by David Lee:

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
The black plastic intakes are known for cracking around the EGR tube. Then antifreeze goes in the intake valves.

Only coolant loss is up front at a fitting or hose. I keep after that.

Not necessarily, you won't see this leak. You have to look past the throttle plate and pressurize the cooling system to see the leak. There is a possibility that you can see remnants of coolant even without having the system under pressure, but doubtful.

Another way to check for vacuum leaks is to poke a hole or two into the cap of a water bottle, spray around the intake manifold and any area that can have a potential for a vacuum leak. Then listen for a sucking sound, will be quite evident. I use this method as it is not flammable, and it works quite well.

Also, check for manifold vacuum leaks more when the engine is cold. This is usually when the leaks are more prominent, because heat will expand the materials and can eliminate or reduce the vacuum leaks considerably.

quote:

Originally posted by guinness301:
I'd do this first.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:
Try cleaning the air intake throat.

98 still has the aluminum intake?

Yes and I got the correct spray cleaner for this. Wont bother the MAF sensor. The cold and constant winds have been a set back. I did locate my coolant leak, a factory style hose clamp, upper hose. Does not show when cold but leaks at temperature. I will get a better clamp tomorrow. Picked up a US made Gates thermostat too. 1 piece at a time.

Only about a week? I'd try using up the gas and a fresh tank of gas first.

I've had bad gas bite me twice in my lifetime.
Looked hard for a week once chasing a miss, pulling my hair out! Yep, used up the gas in the tank and filler it up... problem gone and didn't come back.

Oh and I replaced my 10 year old Michelin X radial steers with a new set of Cooper CS5's. They seem a good tire. Ive run lesser expensive Coopers on one of my Accords years back. The CS5's saved me some expence as the X tires arent cheap.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
Only about a week? I'd try using up the gas and a fresh tank of gas first.

I've had bad gas bite me twice in my lifetime.
Looked hard for a week once chasing a miss, pulling my hair out! Yep, used up the gas in the tank and filler it up... problem gone and didn't come back.

I burn around 1/4 tank per day. I am now useing 89 octane of Shell. 33 cents more per gallon.

quote:

I think I am chasing a vaccum leak. Any advice ?

I always wondered: when the vacuum leaks out, where does it go?

The guy who maintained my 1978 Mercedes-Benz 240D had a trick to find vacuum leaks. The door, trunk, and gas filler locks were vacuum activated and it seemed like every couple of years a pin hole would develop in one of the hoses and tubes that activated these locks.

Rabbit (the mechanic's nickname) would put some A/C freon in the door lock vacuum system at low pressure, then use a sniffer to find where the freon was escaping.