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Picture of ChuckFinley
posted
60 year old ranch house. Looking to extend the main roofline to make a 2x2 four car garage, at 90 degrees from the main roofline. No other option by space for an entirely free standing garage in another area. Could separate them slightly, at best, but code is for it to be attached in that event as well.

Using an architect and structural engineer, so they "should" think of everything and answer every question. I'm concerned about tying a new structure into an existing, well settled structure and how we can keep the old and new roof together, smooth and even.




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Posts: 5646 | Location: District 12 | Registered: June 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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How old is the existing roof and do you plan on replacing?

You may want to make the new garage roof higher or lower than the house to create two separate roofs. This can eliminate and seams and blending of shingles without adding the cost to put a new roof on the house.


 
Posts: 5418 | Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA | Registered: February 27, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Savor the limelight
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Wild Ass Guess (WAG): Unless you tie the new foundation into the existing foundation your carport roof will move at the whim of the earth underneath it. This will be especially true if you live in an area where the ground freezes.

And that’s why the Professional Engineer (PE) gets paid the big bucks.
 
Posts: 10950 | Location: SWFL | Registered: October 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes, planning on replacing entire roof, as that also has renewed areas of rot.

I'll be sure to quiz them on the freeze/thaw cycle.




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"Of all tyrannies, a tyranny exercised for the good of its victims may be the most oppressive. It may be better to live under robber barons than under omnipotent moral busybodies. The robber baron's cruelty may sometimes sleep, his cupidity may at some point be satiated; but those who torment us for our own good will torment us without end, for they do so with the approval of their own conscience." -- C.S. Lewis
 
Posts: 5646 | Location: District 12 | Registered: June 16, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by gpbst3:
How old is the existing roof and do you plan on replacing?

You may want to make the new garage roof higher or lower than the house to create two separate roofs. This can eliminate and seams and blending of shingles without adding the cost to put a new roof on the house.


I have no clue about structural engineering but this idea would be great so you can have some height to the garage and install a 4 post lift for me to rent some space for my GTO if you don’t have a full extra bay.
I am flat out of space and miss a working space in the garage. My back pad has zero shade, is an absolute wind tunnel, and have to jockey 3 trucks around if I am to do any work but sure beats nowhere to work.

All kidding aside looking forward to this project. Lots of renovations and add ons lately over in your area that are really creative.


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Posts: 25426 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of ridewv
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quote:
Originally posted by gpbst3:

You may want to make the new garage roof higher or lower than the house to create two separate roofs.....




I agree. I did this when building my shop which is 38' wide plus 18' for the carport for two reasons. First a 60' long straight roof is kind of unattractive IMO. Second the terrain naturally sloped down hill to the right. Good luck on your project keep us updated.



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Posts: 7098 | Location: Northern WV | Registered: January 17, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of Mikus36
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Just did a project with this -https://www.skylifthardware.com/ - Used 4x12x16 -Not sure if it meets your application.
Good Luck


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Posts: 353 | Location: Washington | Registered: April 18, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of cparktd
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quote:
Using an architect and structural engineer, so they "should" think of everything and answer every question.


I'd let the experts do their job and not worry too much about it. This type of addition is pretty common. I've not seen any issues crop up in similar situations if done by competent people... We don't have a deep frost line here though.



If it ain't woke... don't fix it.
 
Posts: 4129 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Did it on my home. Foot print changed from am “L”to a “T”. Ridge of addition intersected original ridge at 90*. Full basement under both. A good foundation is obviously the best solution.
 
Posts: 2132 | Location: south central Pennsylvania | Registered: November 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sigcrazy7
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Your footings will be deeper than the frost line, whatever that may be in your area. That will prevent freeze/thaw movement wrt the house being connected to the addition. Here in UT that depth is min 32”



Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus
 
Posts: 8220 | Location: Utah | Registered: December 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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