Using clear epoxy for a water feature on my diorama. Think I must have mis-read the graduations on the mixing cups seeing as I have different amounts remaining in the resin and hardener containers. Big hint is that after 3 or 4 hours, it hasn't cured.

Any suggestions on how to clean up the resulting glop so I can re-pour without contaminating the new batch?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PHPaul,

Just a guess, do you have more catalyst (hardener) than resin? Typically, hardner kicks over the resin. As for clean up, what is the surface the spill is on? Lacquer thinner might be too strong, maybe acetone or mineral spirits.

quote:

Originally posted by recoatlift:
Just a guess, do you have more catalyst (hardener) than resin? Typically, hardner kicks over the resin. As for clean up, what is the surface the spill is on? Lacquer thinner might be too strong, maybe acetone or mineral spirits.

Over cured Plaster of Paris. Yes, too much hardener.

My only suggestion would be acetone. Good luck PHPaul

Make sure the temperature is within range too.

The epoxy I use is a 5:1 mix. Check your instructions, you might just need more time. Also epoxy is temperature sensitive. Recalculate how much of each product you used.

For a clean up, it would be paint scrapers and the "Orange" hand cleaner. Also alcohol and acetone work, but are nastier to work with. Note that epoxy always turns yellow over time, so a cleanup can spread a light yellow hue over a larger area.

Methyl Ethyl Keytone was what was used at work years ago.
If the ratio is close, sometimes a heat gun or hair dryer can kick start the process.

quote:

Originally posted by sig operator:
Methyl Ethyl Keytone was what was used at work years ago.

Can use MEK. Honestly I'd try a heat gun first and see if you can get it to kick that way, or turn into a goo you can simply scrape off with a putty knife.

https://www.westsystem.com/ins...s/clean-up-removing/


Remove uncured or non-curing epoxy as you would spilled resin. Scrape as much material as you can from the surface using a stiff metal or plastic scraper. Warm the epoxy to lower its viscosity. Clean the residue with lacquer thinner, acetone, or alcohol. Follow safety warnings on solvents, and provide adequate ventilation. After recoating wood surfaces with epoxy, it’s a good idea to brush the wet epoxy in the direction of the grain with a wire brush to improve adhesion. Allow solvents to dry before recoating with epoxy.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:

quote:

Originally posted by sig operator:
Methyl Ethyl Keytone was what was used at work years ago.

Can use MEK. Honestly I'd try a heat gun first and see if you can get it to kick that way, or turn into a goo you can simply scrape off with a putty knife.

This is what I would do before playing with Methyl Ethyl Bad Shit. Especially if this is for a diorama. No call to play with anything that hot for a hobby.

Acetone should work.

Well, panicked for nothing. Building the diorama in the basement, temp runs about 60°

Ambient temp affected cure time. Checked it this morning, cured perfectly.

Whew...

Excellent! Thanks for your update, many folks don’t bother to get back and share the final outcome.

quote:

Originally posted by PHPaul:
Well, panicked for nothing. Building the diorama in the basement, temp runs about 60°

Ambient temp affected cure time. Checked it this morning, cured perfectly.

Whew...

That's great to hear the update. Yeah things like Epoxy and Paint take much longer when the temperature is 60F compared to even 75F.

I’m glad it worked out and that you updated us.

I almost posted “maybe wait and see what happens?” Then I thought “nah, Paul knows way more about this sorta stuff than I do, if he thinks it’s not working, it’s not working.”

Glad it worked out. Fishing rod builders use an epoxy finish on the wraps. If a finish remains tacky and doesn't cure properly one remedy is to mix another batch and put that over the uncured finish. That will kick it off and it will set up properly.