Due to both family vehicles having large, un-planned maintenance expenses, I am forced to paint the exterior of my house by myself. Delaying painting the house is not an option, and I need to do it before the rainy season starts in a few weeks. I hate painting and am not particularly good at it, though I have painted all the soffits and fascia a couple of years ago.

House: single story, but with vaulted entry way at 13', stucco over concrete block located in west central Florida.

I would like to get some advice on the following:

1) Sprayer. I am looking at the airless Graco Magnum Project painter. This is the lower end model Magnum sprayer, and Lowe's has them for $220. Is this a good way to go, or is there a better option? I am looking for a decent sprayer, but do not plan on painting houses for a living, either.

2) Estimating the coverage. Online calculators say 250-400 sq.ft. of painted surface per gallon, but that isn't very precise. Some YouTube videos suggest using the 400 sq. ft. value.

3) Technique: The house has two colors. The base color, and then a lighter color for trim around windows, soffit, fascia, as well as fairly large sections of architectural features in the stucco. Will I need to mask off around all of these details, or is it possible to get skilled enough with the sprayer to use a trowel as shield right near the tip and spray these details without masking? FWIW, I do plan on practicing on the back of my house with the sprayer, before moving on to the parts visible to the street.

4) Garage door. The garage door the same color as the base of the house. How do I paint the roll-up door without painting the joints closed? Open the door slightly, spray it, and wait until it dries? Put masking tape between panels and close, so the paint doesn't stick?

5) For reasons not to be discussed, most of the house was originally painted in latex, but the soffit and fascia was re-painted with an oil paint. Is it really necessary to use the chemical treatments on oil paint before covering with latex? I have been told that a light sanding at most should suffice.

6) Suggestions for things I haven't asked?

I am sure other questions will come up, but for now, that should get me started.

TIA

quote:

Suggestions for things I haven't asked?

Detailed prep and caulk; you can never have too much of either.

If you end up spraying, you will be much closer to the 250 sf value.

You used oil based paint in Florida? Man that's bold right there. I assume you have power washed everything. If the oil based paint isn't overly chalky, high grade latex acrylics will stick to the oil and there shouldn't be an issue.

How rough is the stucco? You may find closer to 225/gal

What condition is the stucco in? Any cracks? If there are you may want to concider using an elastomeric paint. Most have ratings for wind driven rain (depending on where in fl you are) it will also bridge the cracks

They don’t spread as far as normal paints but once it’s done first time you’ve basically water proofed the house and can put regular paint ontop at a later date

Modern high quality paints will be able to adhere to the oil without issue after a scuff sand

When you look at sprayers, make sure they are the piston/pump type and NOT operated by an eccentric. The eccentric sprayers suck.

Time spent to mask/plastic everything off is well spent, IMO.

You can pain the garage door closed. It will be fine, but you will see the color difference as the door is going up/down. If it's the same color you probably won't even notice it. My house was originally green, and prior owners painted it brown. It doesn't bother me to see the little bit of green. You could open the door part way, spray the joints, let it dry and close the door and paint.

2 light coats rather than 1 heavy coat, IMO.

Pressure wash a few days before.

If you are applying latex over an exterior oil here are the steps to insure adhesion. Prime your existing oil with an exterior oil based primer. When you go to finishing with latex I'd advise adding one gallon of emulsa bond to each five of latex you'll need. The emulsa bond should be available at Home Depot or call your local paint stores.. It's terrific stuff and will help greatly with adhering to the oil primer. It never easy switching over to latex on interiors I use white pigmented shellac then topcoat with latex. BTW never buy cheap paint, painting is 90% labor so buy good quality paint. I am a big fan of Sherwin Williams and heck they own just about all the other paint manufacturers anyway. They also produce lots of the 'designer' lines like Martha Stewart and the like.. Also love Graco airless sprayers I have one I bought in 1983 that still runs perfect..

Good prep > TSP, powerwash, scrape as necessary.
Good paint > SW Duration.
Good Technique > properly mask areas and apply evenly.

You'll do just fine.

Does using a brush produce a longer lasting result than spraying???

quote:

Originally posted by gloucestermen:
I am a big fan of Sherwin Williams and heck they own just about all the other paint manufacturers anyway. They also produce lots of the 'designer' lines like Martha Stewart and the like.. Also love Graco airless sprayers I have one I bought in 1983 that still runs perfect..

SW is notorious for destroying the quality of the companies they buy. Duron a classic example. They’ve gotten huge by buying the regional players. Watch what happens with Valspar now

They took over Martha after Akzo Nobel refused to renew the agreements through Glidden(now owned by PPG)

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
Does using a brush produce a longer lasting result than spraying???

Typically yes because your applying a thicker film at once, will also take 100x longer to finish the project and the final appearance with be different often. If your real good with a sprayer the results are similar

quote:

Typically yes because your applying a thicker film at once, will also take 100x longer to finish the project and the final appearance with be different often. If your real good with a sprayer the results are similar

Thank you. The last time I used a roller and then a brush immediately after. It took a lot of time.

Pressure wash the entire house.

1.Rent a commercial paint sprayer, you will have much better results. You will also need to thin the paint with water usually if you're spraying it. You want to stir it with a stirring paddle wooden and lift the stick/paddle out at a 30 degree angle and the paint should flow off of it like a coffee maker when it starts in the beginning.......(more or less)

2. Figure on the 250 sq feet a gallon

3. You will have to mask everything, the trim, window openings etc.

4.Open the garage door just a touch (like put a 4x4" beneath it). You're going to need to bag behind it.

5. I don't know the answer to that, you may have to prime over it. Ask the guys where you buy the paint, BM, SW, and Acrylux usually all have very knowledgable employees at their stores.

Use a very good quality of latex paint (Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, or Acrylux). Acrylux is Fort Lauderdale based and they make excellent paint at very good prices. They might have a location near you or deliver. But they have premium paint that really lasts down here for like $20 a gallon. They make a clear primer that you mix 4:1 with water......If you decide to buy from acrylux or make it to Fort Lauderdale I have 2-3 gallons of it that I'll give you for free. You will get 10-15 years out of a good paint.....15 easy if you roll it and put on 2 coats.

By the time you bag everything and prep everything, you won't save that much time from using a roller to paint it and will get better coverage with a roller. Plus you don't have to buy a sprayer, nearly as much tape, visceen etc. I don't think spraying it will save much time and don't do it on a windy day unless you want to pay to have all of your neighbors cars detailed. Rolling the paint on, the paint will last 1/3 longer than spraying it......Spray to get a large job done fast, roller to make it last. Exterior flat walls without a lot of windows, you can cover a lot of ground pretty fast with a roller if you have the right length extension pole, the right roller cover, a 5 gallon bucket of paint......

quote:

Originally posted by ZSMICHAEL:
Does using a brush produce a longer lasting result than spraying???

No.
The quality of the result is in the quality of the application.
Spraying will be more consistent.

1. Rent, don't buy.

2. 200sq ft. Especially if you're a rookie spray man.
Don't split hairs on the estimate. Choose a store that is close by.

3. You will get a far superior paint job with a good
quality lambswool roller and a Purdy brush.
Masking and unmasking requires lots of time and effort as
well as additional expense.

4. A short nap weenie roller will produce excellent results
on metal roll ups. You could spray it, but if you're a rookie,
it could be curtains for you.

5. Prime it. There is no such thing as "a light sanding" on old oil enamel
and the result is marginal at best.

6. Buy the best paint you can and always do two coats for complete coverage and color saturation.
Sherwin Williams Duration is a good one.

I love these threads. Like a moth to a flame.

I'd roll it.

This thread is a good reminder to never paint my own house. I’ll let it look like garbage for a while longer until I can pay someone.

quote:

Originally posted by lbsid:
1. Rent, don't buy.

2. 200sq ft. Especially if you're a rookie spray man.
Don't split hairs on the estimate. Choose a store that is close by.

3. You will get a far superior paint job with a good
quality lambswool roller and a Purdy brush.
Masking and unmasking requires lots of time and effort as
well as additional expense.

4. A short nap weenie roller will produce excellent results
on metal roll ups. You could spray it, but if you're a rookie,
it could be curtains for you.

5. Prime it. There is no such thing as "a light sanding" on old oil enamel
and the result is marginal at best.

6. Buy the best paint you can and always do two coats for complete coverage and color saturation.
Sherwin Williams Duration is a good one.

I love these threads. Like a moth to a flame.

THIS.

I learned how to paint in the CG....there are books about how to properly clean a brush, which kind does what, which width brush to use....I could go on for days. After 21 years in the service, I can do several things well. Paint damn near anything, how to clean anything and knowing the boundaries of my expertise.

Spray vs brush is the way to go.
You can make a straight edge to avoid masking windows by using the blue DOW foam board with an edge of aluminum flashing taped to it after you cut out a three foot brush shaped piece of the DOW board.
Rent a good sprayer....
Use a pump sprayer not one of the cheaper one that has a elliptical pump.
Prep time is well spent time!!

Prep time is time well spent!!!

I have high quality fiberglass 8' and 12' folding step ladders if you need them, and can either drop them off or we can meet.

The stucco on our house is fairly rough. Our painter used some sort of Sherwin Williams elastomeric paint that was fairly thick. He sprayed it and backrolled it to get it in all the nooks and crannies. That was 10 years ago and the house still looks good.

quote:

Originally posted by ArtieS:
I have high quality fiberglass 8' and 12' folding step ladders if you need them, and can either drop them off or we can meet.

I'll definitely take you up on that.