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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. ![]() |
The front axle shaft u-joints can be checked without taking anything apart. Turn the wheel/tire to full lock in both directions and slowly rotate it while looking and feeling for any binding. If there is, the axle will try to move up and down instead of rotating smoothly. Also check for excess play (any is too much) and for rust streaks indicating the needle bearings have rusted up. They are typically not greaseable, but sometimes aftermarket ones have a little socket you can grease with a needle.
Since the wheel hub/bearing assembly has to be removed first, which will damage them unless a special tool and procedure are used, I see no reason for this either. | |||
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Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
This guy has some good info on his site and makes quality items for the fuel system. Look through his blog and site and particularly concerning fuel pressure gauges and pumps. You may not need one now but it's good info to know that may keep you from needing some of his stuff. I bought a injection pump from him years ago and they are quality products with good customer support. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/ ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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Thank you Very little ![]() |
[ Samuel L Jackson mode on]Allow me to retort! ![]() My reference was about plugs blowing out, an early 5.4 issue, 97-03, these engines did not have 2 piece plugs but did have less threads cut in the heads. When replacing plugs, if not properly torqued they would rotate over time, and thus pop out, breaking the plug, COP and making a hell of a racket. The 2 piece plugs breaking off is a different issue, from 04 to 07. For these years Ford put 8 thread rings in the heads, solving the 97-03 issue. The 2 piece plugs didn't pop out, in fact they did the opposite. They suck in the plug hole, and broke when the bottom half was stuck to the head from heavy carbon deposits and would snap. Clearly not the blown plug issue I referenced and experienced, twice. But, still an issue. 2008 was the year they got that fixed, if your engine was built after 10/9/07 then you should be fine. The tell-tale sign of the new design is brown coil on plug boots. If they're still black then you might have issues. If you do have the 2pc plugs (and they've never been changed) then Ford put out a TSB (#08-7-6) on procedures and there's a a tool from Lisle that reportedly works very well if you break one. You can get that for $60-70 on Amazon. The easy fix for the 2pc plugs is to remove them and replace with one piece plugs when you change them, problem solved which is what Ford did in 08. I should have been clear about which Gen 5.4, it's a different plug issue for different years. | |||
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Savor the limelight |
What do the spark plug in a Ford motor have to do with a Cummins diesel in a Dodge? I’m really confused. ![]() | |||
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Left-Handed, NOT Left-Winged! |
Information tidbit: The Cummins 5.9L Mechanical is one of the most common OTR Tractor engines in India. Yes, they put it in Tractor Trailer Rigs and gear it to work. I do not advise getting stuck behind one on an incline. I have. | |||
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Honor and Integrity |
When buying a vehicle fluid changes and filters are first on my list. I would also include a brake fluid flush on your list. I would probably not go with synthetics with this vehicle. That last sentence was hard for me to type, since I am an AMSOIL dealer. The benefits of synthetics would not justify the high cost for an older vehicle with questionable maintenance. Both front and rear differentials have covers that can be removed for visual inspection. As A.J. mentioned, AMSOIL has an injector cleaner that you just pour into the tank. I hope this helps. | |||
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Green grass and high tides ![]() |
Guys, thanks for chiming back in. I respect those of you who are owners and know some of you are mechanics and have forgot more than most know about these rigs ![]() The rig is a few states away from me. As I mentioned. My brother is handling things. His other neighbor is a county sheriff and has a duramax chevy. He was the one that recommended the shop my brother contacted and took the truck to for the inspection. I then contacted the shop once we had the report on it with the recommended work. In talking with the shop owner he seemed knowledgeable and familiar with my rig. They are primarily a diesel shop. As I mentioned I believe. They gave the truck a good report by in large. Other than the front end and steering box replacement work. Which we knew it needed done. They gave me a detailed quote to do the work. Have completed it. Did all the items that needed addressed according to them. Did all those maintenance items need done? Maybe, maybe not. We did not know much history on the rig so things like a transmission service, cooling system flush, injector cleaning, transfer case, both differentials serviced etc. was something that made sense to me. Did I get taken to the cleaners, I do not think so. They still have the truck since we have not been able to pick up yet. I will have about $10k in the truck total. Purchase and work completed. Last I talked with them they said it ran like new. We'll see. Their recommendation was a synthetic service so that is what it got. The only other thing on my list with this truck is a new drivers side seat replacement. I will order from Geno's garage one they have them back in stock. I am hopeful this truck will last me a good long time with mostly just regular maintenance.This message has been edited. Last edited by: old rugged cross, "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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