The rig is going in to a shop that was recommended by a friend of my brothers for a pre-purchase inspection this week.

We know the front end is in need of some replacement items, trackbar, tierod sleeve, tie rod ends and an alignment. Might also need a new steering box. Not sure on that.

What other items that may not be part of a normal inspection should I request.

Is there anyway to determine if the dowel pin has been replaced via an inspection?

Also what is an average price for a lube oil filter service job on these rigs. I think I read somewhere $350

Thanks guys. I appreciate all your help.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: old rugged cross,

I never paid anywhere near $350 for lube/oil/filter on the old 12 valve Cummins Dodge I had. I think more like $150. At my regular independent mechanic shop.

Mine was 4wd and easy to crawl under to work on. I usually serviced it myself. I could do it myself with Rotella Synthetic from Walmart for about the same cost as I paid for a conventional oil change at the mechanic shop.

I pay about $110 for lube, filter and oil here in the hills.
To me a major item to check out is the lift pump system. The lift pump supplies fuel from the tank to the injector pump. If lift pump goes bad it can/will take out the injector pump, which is a $$$ item. Dodge played games as to how the lift pump is checked, went from pressure to volume. Pressure is easily checked, volume requires disconnecting a fuel line and timing how long it takes for a certain amount of fuel to be delivered into a container.
Hen I was doing the work myself I used www.genosgarage for supplies etc.

quote:

Originally posted by walkinghorse:
www.genosgarage.com for supplies etc.

Fixed the link.

Anyways for oil and fuel I will be completing them myself on my 17 6.7L. I've found that Tractor Supply has the best prices on the oil. I just swapped my oil last weekend with Rotella T6 and a mopar filter for around $80.

Thanks guys that is a relief on the cost of a service. What about the filter replacements other than the oil filter.

Also, as mentioned I may need the steering box replaced. I got a quote from Les Schwab for $970 on a Redhead unit installed which seemed about the going rate? If I have that done is a power steering pump replacement something I should consider at the same time?

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
What about the filter replacements other than the oil filter.

You'll want to stay on top of replacing the fuel filter - they're super easy to change (a bit messy though). I run Baldwin fuel filters in mine as they're rated at 5 micron and separate water. Water separation is really important.

I replace the fuel/water separator with every oil change. Fleetguard filters and rotella oil with oil filter and fuel/water filter is $120 here in NC. I also added a fuel pressure gauge. I mounted it inside of the ashtray and consider it to be necessary equipment. It monitors the in-tank pump pressure. If that pump fails, the high pressure pump will soon fail, and it costs north of $1000.

Another common failure is the HVAC blend doors. The motor shaft is steel. the door is plastic. Doorman makes a replacement that wants you to cut a hole in the HVAC box, but this is a total garbage repair. Look above the trans tunnel on the interior to see if some hack did this bullshit repair. Make sure that the HVAC can switch from foot to face to defrost easily. If the doors fail, the failure mode is defrost. A proper fix is to remove the entire dash. I did mine myself, but this repair will cost close to $1000 for a shop to do.

quote:

Originally posted by Rev. A. J. Forsyth:
Another common failure is the HVAC blend doors. The motor shaft is steel. the door is plastic. Doorman makes a replacement that wants you to cut a hole in the HVAC box, but this is a total garbage repair. Look above the trans tunnel on the interior to see if some hack did this bullshit repair. Make sure that the HVAC can switch from foot to face to defrost easily. If the doors fail, the failure mode is defrost. A proper fix is to remove the entire dash. I did mine myself, but this repair will cost close to $1000 for a shop to do.

Not wanting to cut into my HVAC box and not having the time to have the AC evacuated and tear the whole dash down, I submitted to the dealer and they replaced mine over the course of 3 days. I think that cost me about $1,100. Wasn't terribly happy about it, but it wasn't safe to drive in the winter without defrost.

quote:

Not wanting to cut into my HVAC box and not having the time to have the AC evacuated

Sssssshhhhh....I vented mine into the garage.

Didn't default to defrost in failure?

I don't know if it was posted in your other thread or not, but remember, diesel fuel injector life span is usually around 250,000 miles or so. That's a big $$$ job. That's a big reason many people sell their diesels around 225,00 miles or so.

quote:

Didn't default to defrost in failure?

Mine did, but it may not be 100%. Defrost is where the door will go by gravity. If the motor shaft is seized or anything else similar, who knows.

quote:

Originally posted by 1967Goat:
I don't know if it was posted in your other thread or not, but remember, diesel fuel injector life span is usually around 250,000 miles or so. That's a big $$$ job. That's a big reason many people sell their diesels around 225,00 miles or so.

iirc it was mentioned that the second gen Dodges are not as prone to needing injector replacements as the other brands?

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Didn't default to defrost in failure?

It did initially, but I could hear the internal doors partially moving and my feet were cold (sub-zero temps outside). Got stuck on floor heat.

Overall, my '06 has been very reliable. Other than the HVAC issue, ball joints (mentioned in the other thread) and rocker panel rust it's been great.

Check the filters, does it have a water separator, check all consumable joints, ball joints, u-joints, anything that has rubber, body mounts, bed mounts, look for damage to the frame, look for leaks especially those that require some disassembly, listen for noises that shouldn't be there, along with the other tips.


Read up online about common problems with that make model and year, for the 5.4 Ford its the spark plugs not being installed properly that leads to blown out plugs needing timesert replacement. At $100 a hole with the heads on or if you have to pull the heads... All because of improperly torqued plugs....
As an example, just had to replace the center support drive shaft bearing, second time, I know when it is going from the vibration and inspecting the torn rubber, if you didn't know about these driving it would feel like a slight vibration to anyone else but nothing major.

New Injectors are $300 retail, each plus a $150 Core... Not inexpensive so worth checking.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:

quote:

Originally posted by 1967Goat:
I don't know if it was posted in your other thread or not, but remember, diesel fuel injector life span is usually around 250,000 miles or so. That's a big $$$ job. That's a big reason many people sell their diesels around 225,00 miles or so.

iirc it was mentioned that the second gen Dodges are not as prone to needing injector replacements as the other brands?

I have never owned a diesel, but it is my understanding the injector issue applies to all diesels. I think diesels operate well in excess of 1,500 psi (perhaps much more). I think injector replacement in inherent in any diesel north of 225,000 miles.

I would probably research the symptoms of what happens when diesel injectors fail. I honestly have no idea.

quote:

Read up online about common problems with that make model and year, for the 5.4 Ford its the spark plugs not being installed properly that leads to blown out plugs needing timesert replacement. At $100 a hole with the heads on or if you have to pull the heads... All because of improperly torqued plugs....

I don't mean to be rude, but you are 110% incorrect. Incorrectly torqued plugs have exactly nothing to do with it. The plug is a three piece design, and fails when the threaded cup gets stuck in the head while the insulator breaks loose due to bimetal corrosion. Not to mention the 5.4 ranks up there as the worst engine ford has ever built due to cam phaser issues, oiling issues, and the most horrible plug design known to man. When you have multiple options on an aftermarket tool for one make, one repair, you know you have an issue.

I owned three of them and know first hand.

To the OP, please post pics of your 2nd gen if you buy it, would love to see her.

Thanks guys. The truck is at the diesel shop today and is going to get a good going over and a pre-purchase type inspection.
So in a day or two I will get a report on it and know more about its mechanical condition.
My brother did the "tea kettle" blow by test and according to him, It passed. So that was a relief. Keeping my figures crossed that the shop will provide a mostly positive report.

Update: So the mechanical inspection has been completed and repair/maintenance recommendations made.
So the rig was given a pretty solid bill of health.
Remember this rig has about 240k on it. Is a one owner rig. That was owned by a retired man. We have very little maintenance history on it.

So here are the recommendations.

Front end/steering upgrades
New trackbar. New Redhead steering box.

New fuel and air filter and injector cleaning.

Lof. Synthetic oil.

Two new batteries.

Rear Differential service. Not just sucking out the fluid and putting new in. They pull the axles and inspect for worn or damaged parts.

_This is what I plan to have done. ________________________________________________

Other recommended service items are

Front Differential service- Same as above.

Transfer case service.

Transmission filter and flush.

Cooling system flush

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________


The shop was very thorough and feel like they did a good evaluation after talking with them.

The gave a me quote to do the work.

I knew this type of outcome was possible and mostly expected. I was not shocked.

The entire job is expensive. That is why i am breaking it down to a two part priority list. I realize it all needs done. But in its entirety is a tough pill to swallow at one time.

I bought the truck knowing in a best case scenario this would be the case. The purchase price had this in mind from the get go.

Let me know what your thoughts or if you have any feedback. Thanks again for all your help guys.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: old rugged cross,

Why new batteries, does it not crank well?

Why pull the axles for inspection? That is opening a can of worms. They won't just lock up or explode, they will give you plenty of warning first. Removing the axles shafts is a pain, and I would not do it just because.

Rotella is the best oil in my opinion, I wouldn't put synthetic in it if it's had conventional all of it's life. You could get some nasty leaks that way.

Injector cleaning is bullshit. I wouldn't do that either. Get some Amsoil injector cleaner and do it yourself. That's most likely all they are doing.

I just resealed my transfer case in my driveway last weekend. If you're not comfortable doing the work, I can understand, but some of the things you mentioned are definitely add-ons.