quote:

Originally posted by Sig Sauer Kraut:
A new battery draining that quickly is suspect.

I missed that he put a new battery. Some Ducs (and other engines) have issue with not being able to start because someone installed a battery with lower than spec CCA rating. If trying to start it a few times is causing a new battery to become weak, I'd question if the battery is a correct replacement.

I'd point a finger at either the battery, valve shim tolerance / valve clearance, or maybe the sprag. The battery being in spec in easy to figure out. If there are maintenance records and the valves have been adjusted somewhat recently, it may not be valves. If the sprag is worn/damaged, you'd need to pull the alternator cover off, which is a job you may not want to tackle yourself. Duc Alternator Cover Removal

If you don't have recent maintenance history of valve adjustment, and the battery is up to spec, I'd take the bike to a Ducati technician. Without maintenance history, you're going to want to get the belts replaced regardless.

quote:

Originally posted by rainman64:

Marco died on 10/23/2011. The man was a Lion on the RCV. RIP SIC.

Pursuant to the valve comments above, do a compression test.

quote:

Originally posted by italia:

quote:

Originally posted by Sig Sauer Kraut:
A new battery draining that quickly is suspect.

I missed that he put a new battery. Some Ducs (and other engines) have issue with not being able to start because someone installed a battery with lower than spec CCA rating. If trying to start it a few times is causing a new battery to become weak, I'd question if the battery is a correct replacement.

I'd point a finger at either the battery, valve shim tolerance / valve clearance, or maybe the sprag. The battery being in spec in easy to figure out. If there are maintenance records and the valves have been adjusted somewhat recently, it may not be valves. If the sprag is worn/damaged, you'd need to pull the alternator cover off, which is a job you may not want to tackle yourself. Duc Alternator Cover Removal

If you don't have recent maintenance history of valve adjustment, and the battery is up to spec, I'd take the bike to a Ducati technician. Without maintenance history, you're going to want to get the belts replaced regardless.

Ill certainly take your word on the valve adjustment. Mine was always done on time on my duc, so I have no first hand knowledge regarding what problems skipping it can cause.

quote:

Originally posted by Prefontaine:


Marco died on 10/23/2011. The man was a Lion on the RCV. RIP SIC.

You and I had a long conversation about Simoncelli when he died.
That's why I used his pic.

Dude, I have been a GP fan since Sheene was trying to invent the reticulated back plate!

Didn't you use his symbol as your avatar for a while?

Like this?

quote:

Originally posted by Sig Sauer Kraut:
Ill certainly take your word on the valve adjustment. Mine was always done on time on my duc, so I have no first hand knowledge regarding what problems skipping it can cause.

It's fairly common for Ducs to begin to have starting issues over time as valve seats wear or adjustment is neglected. Some of them need more frequent checking depending on how they were broken in, and how they are ridden. My Duc track bike needs more frequent valve checks just because it's ridden pretty much between 7000 RPM and redline all the time, periodically bouncing off the rev limiter. In my experience, most issues with Ducs are due to neglect of proper maintenance. Since the electronic ignition / electronic fuel injected Ducs came out, they're pretty darn reliable if you do the maintenance. I'm in the same boat as you, I follow maintenance schedules religiously.

quote:

Originally posted by italia:

quote:

Originally posted by Sig Sauer Kraut:
Ill certainly take your word on the valve adjustment. Mine was always done on time on my duc, so I have no first hand knowledge regarding what problems skipping it can cause.

It's fairly common for Ducs to begin to have starting issues over time as valve seats wear or adjustment is neglected. Some of them need more frequent checking depending on how they were broken in, and how they are ridden. My Duc track bike needs more frequent valve checks just because it's ridden pretty much between 7000 RPM and redline all the time, periodically bouncing off the rev limiter. In my experience, most issues with Ducs are due to neglect of proper maintenance. Since the electronic ignition / electronic fuel injected Ducs came out, they're pretty darn reliable if you do the maintenance. I'm in the same boat as you, I follow maintenance schedules religiously.

Check the timing belt also....

OP here..

to answer a few questions.

Yes, gas is there, but there is no petcock on the bike.

There is a power commander attached and it is possible that is draining the battery, however, the bikes acts the same whether I connect or disconnect the power commander as far as cranking and not firing.

As far as maintenance, I now very little. I know that in 2015 or about 1000 miles ago, the engine was rebuilt by a local ducati mechanic (the previous owner paid over $6K for that work!) and larger race cams were installed, so the displacement went from 992 to 1092 (or something close to it). I have to assume that with all that expensive work done recently, that the valves were checked as well. Eventually, I will take a bike back to that mechanic to see what is going on, but not yet. Really want to solve this!

The battery is brand new, got it at O'Reilly's, and they looked it up in the system for this bike specifically. I know that does not guarantee that specs are like OEM so that may be one of the issues.

italia, thanks for sharing the forum info. I'll check it out!

when I get home tonight, i'll pull the plugs and check for spark and continue down that route. I though that it was a fuel issue since the engine turns, but its sounds more electrical now. or both! jeez, so much fun and so frustrating at same time! I have been riding Japanese bikes for 13 years and this is my first Italian and I feel I learned more in past 4 days that I have owned it then in past 13 years of riding !

I need to get it going so I can get it on a track!!

If that is not a popular and commonly used battery, it may have been sitting around long enough to become partially discharged. You might try putting it on a charger. Does it have a date code on it?

Yes, 01/18.

And I have had the battery on trickle charger all along unless I am trying to start it.

How old it the gas in it? What is battery volts when the engine is cranking over?

quote:

Originally posted by Bytes:
Carbs need to be rebuilt? Was it sitting for an extended time with gas in the float bowls?

hahahaha! Let me know when you find the carbs

quote:

Originally posted by Xer0:
Three things for combustion in the engine needed; air, fuel, spark). As you tried starting fluid which is definitely fuel in open throttle body (which means plenty of air) without even a hint of ignition, it's lack of spark. You'll have to figure out why no spark, but it's a starting point.

1. I'd pull plug, ground against frame outside of engine and see if any spark going on at electrode. You might get a jolt or two doing it, but it won't kill you.
2. If not or really weak, then screwdriver into plug wire and hold screwdriver shaft close to frame to see if strong spark from screwdriver (if good spark here, then bad/wrong plug).
3. Then check plug wires and clean tight connections.
4. Then coils and clean tight connections
5. then check low side power and ground of coils
6. Then check whatever regulates power/timing pulse of coils (likely electronics/computer, while back in the day it was points/gap, distributer)

Also make sure the battery has good voltage. Might have enough amps to push starter/lights, but some electronics are sensitive to low voltage and won't work right below a certain voltage.

Also make sure the inside is not wet with fuel either. Too much fuel without atomization will drown out any spark if your fuel delivery is actually dumping too much fuel in there for some reason.

This is good advice.

Also, I would disconnect the headlight while troubleshooting to lessen the drain on the battery. I would also boost it with a car battery to help it crank.

Make sure its well grounded and contact points clean...

quote:

Originally posted by rainman64:

quote:

Originally posted by Prefontaine:


Marco died on 10/23/2011. The man was a Lion on the RCV. RIP SIC.

You and I had a long conversation about Simoncelli when he died.
That's why I used his pic.

Dude, I have been a GP fan since Sheene was trying to invent the reticulated back plate!

Didn't you use his symbol as your avatar for a while?

Like this?

Yup. Race your life.

Was stating who he was for those that didn’t know. He was a bad mother fucker and didn’t want to read someone making fun of him, the hair, etc.
One of the nicest people I have ever met.

Sooooo no spark! Or to be exact, two little flashes of light during 10 cranks.

Coils?

It's been awhile since I messed with one but that is the 1st year for the anti theft system which if I remember right can be quirky. Might want to do some checking on that. Did you get a red key with the bike? That is VERY important for when it comes to that system.

Yes I have the red key.

In a two cylinder bike for each cylinder the spark will fire only every other Revolution. Also the quality of spark will be affected by the quality of your ground. If you hold the spark plug electrode against a painted metal surface the ground will be poor.

More details in the OP but here is the drain plug with metal shavings and a what looks like a basket case of wires, hoses, and parts