I bought this non-running “cheap” ‘03 monster 1000. I always wanted a monster and at that price I had to give it a try. I am handy but never really worked took engine apart etc. I spent endless hours online looking for answers.

So, why won’t it start?? I put in new battery, new fuel filter, new starter engine, new spark plugs. fresh gas. I checked the solenoid with voltmeter and looks good. Fuel pump starts on as it pressurizes the system.

It cranks stronger then it did with old starter. The spark was weak before I put in new spark plugs, but need to check the spark with new spark plugs.

I really don’t want to admit defeat and take it to a shop, but what else can I try??


Here is what it does:


https://vimeo.com/276031784?ref=em-share


https://vimeo.com/276031784?ref=em-share


UPDATE:

Well, it’s worse than expected. I took it to a shop for a diagnosis since I hit a brick wall. Turns out that there is no or weak spark due to the magnetic position sensor that is covered by metal shavings no bueno.

Something is broke. Which is why motor had a hard time turning. The shop wanted another $400 to tear engine down to see what exactly is broken. Best case scenario is 3k worth of repairs, and worse case is $9k!!!!! That ain’t gonna happen. I took it home and started to disassemble the engine. I also found a much cheaper mechanic so I’ll take the bike to him so we can pull the motor and inspect crankshaft, rods, etc.

As it looks right now, it will be more economical to buy a used engine for about 2k and swap out.

I am not ready to give up on the bike just yet. I had 10 Japanese bikes that were all ultra reliable, but this Duc has already thought me more about engine than all those 10 combined! Sigh.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: crni4, July 18, 2018 09:17 PM

Carbs need to be rebuilt? Was it sitting for an extended time with gas in the float bowls?

quote:

I really don’t want to admit defeat and take it to a shop, but what else can I try??

In similar circumstances years ago on my own bikes I always had to determine which I had more of: my own limited mechanical skills, or money to hire someone that had better answers.

To me it sounds like there isn't enough spark....but what do I know. Good luck.

This bike is fuel injected. Per previous owner, it sat 3-4 months. I tried starting fluid directly into the throttle bodies, and that didn’t work either.

I will check the spark again and if it’s still weak, then what? New coils? I feel that is above my level. Did I mention that it drains the battery quickly after only few starts to fire?

Can you verify carbs are full of fuel? Do the bowls have a drain that you can check for fuel presence? Does it have some sort of auto fuel petcock possibly engine vacuum actuated? I've run engines on a propane torch before by taking out the jet orifice which screws in. Might take two of them to run the engine, but could verify if fuel related, or could squirt some fuel into the venturis.

The carb jets could be gummed and not flow any fuel, but that would be rare.

quote:

Originally posted by crni4:
This bike is fuel injected. Per previous owner, it sat 3-4 months. I tried starting fluid directly into the throttle bodies, and that didn’t work either.

I will check the spark again and if it’s still weak, then what? New coils? I feel that is above my level. Did I mention that it drains the battery quickly after only few starts to fire?

I only work on cars but if it's fuel injected, it sounds like weak coils. If starter fluid does at least get it to start a second, you don't have spark or a hot enough spark. Can you pull a plug and see if it's firing?

Weak spark is red flag for me. I doubt the old spark plugs were so bad as to drastically degrade spark. My first place to look is at the fuses, always a good place to start. Then I would look at the ignition coil/coils, check for damage or loose wiring. Look for any signs of arcing/carbon tracking, say from a crack in the cool casing. Check to make sure the coil/coils are getting full battery voltage. Need to check the resistance in the primary and secondary circuits.

Does this engine have timing belts? If so, might be a good idea to check belt alignment, possible that the belt is off a tooth or more. Do a compression test to get a good read on basic engine soundness. Might want to also check the valve adjustment, if it is set too tight there won’t be full combustion, but that can be seen with a compression test.

My guess would be coils or electronic ignition module

Hind sight is 20/20 but you might have been better off getting a shop to diagnose the problem before you spent money attempting to guess what was causing the bike not to start. The upside is theres bo harm in buying new plugs etc. You might try purchasing a GS 911 to see if any error codes pop up that could account for the bike not starting.

Make sure the run switch is actually on run. When I first put together my St1100 it was running excellent. Rolled it outside then tried starting it, cranked and cranked, then I saw I hit the on/off switch as well as turning off the key.

MC Troubleshooting Guide

I'd guess that the starter relay or ignition module is shot. Possibly a weak coil/rectifier/stator issue.

It is not unheard of, but fairly uncommon for coils to go bad. Check spark first. That would eliminate much of the wild guessing going on. Typical factory parts stores will not return electrical parts. So, if you dont know what it is, I highly recommend finding out before buying hundreds of dollars in parts that you cant send back. If you don't know how to check spark, take it to a mechanic. If you do, then you probably know all gas engines need the same thing: Fuel, air, compression, and spark on time. If it has these, it will start. It is a mathematical certainty. If it will not, it's missing or not getting enough, or is getting too much, of one or more of those items.

It’s a Ducati.

quote:

Originally posted by Prefontaine:
It’s a Ducati.

LOL, I was going to say that.
They are known for being stubborn and quirky; like just dying at a stop light for no reason... and then refusing to start again. Even though they were running fine prior to stopping

Three things for combustion in the engine needed; air, fuel, spark). As you tried starting fluid which is definitely fuel in open throttle body (which means plenty of air) without even a hint of ignition, it's lack of spark. You'll have to figure out why no spark, but it's a starting point.

1. I'd pull plug, ground against frame outside of engine and see if any spark going on at electrode. You might get a jolt or two doing it, but it won't kill you.
2. If not or really weak, then screwdriver into plug wire and hold screwdriver shaft close to frame to see if strong spark from screwdriver (if good spark here, then bad/wrong plug).
3. Then check plug wires and clean tight connections.
4. Then coils and clean tight connections
5. then check low side power and ground of coils
6. Then check whatever regulates power/timing pulse of coils (likely electronics/computer, while back in the day it was points/gap, distributer)

Also make sure the battery has good voltage. Might have enough amps to push starter/lights, but some electronics are sensitive to low voltage and won't work right below a certain voltage.

Also make sure the inside is not wet with fuel either. Too much fuel without atomization will drown out any spark if your fuel delivery is actually dumping too much fuel in there for some reason.

It's a dual-plug, electronic fuel injected twin. Thus it has two spark plugs for each of the two cylinders. I had an '04 Monster 1000 for ten years with the same engine. Though many would argue it shouldn't be necessary with an electronic fuel injected engine, cracking open a little throttle on start up sometimes helped, though I never had the level of difficulty you're experiencing.

My guess would be valve shims being way out of tolerance / valve clearance. If the opener clearance goes below 0 (negative clearance) then the valve is not shutting completely. This situation could cause the bike to not start easily as the compression of the cylinder will be low due to leakage through the valve seat. Typically as the valve seat wears, the valve moves up into the cylinder thus decreasing the opening clearance and increasing the closing clearance. If the clearances are not checked in a timely matter this situation could occur

Google might have a few ideas:

'03 Monster 1000 ducati starting problem

Ducati Monster Forum - Starting Problems- 2003 Monster 1000S I.E.

Cold start problem on 2003 DS1000 monster

EDIT: I just watched your video. Forget cracking open the throttle, and I'm doubtful the Google links I posted will help. Do you have maintenance records? How many miles on the bike? When were valves adjusted last?

Is the gas tank full?

Make sure the petcock is in the correct position.

Good luck!
_________

quote:

Originally posted by Prefontaine:
It’s a Ducati.

Hey Font-
I have a 2001 SS stroked to a 944.
It has never failed to start and will make your hair look like this




OP- May I recommend you post this question on my forum.
Try here.

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/42-monster/

Create an ID, post once in the Welcome forum, and start pinging away.
I have a lot of savvy members that can get you running quick.

The "known as being finicky" syndrom stopped mid 2000's.

Try a Panigale and that will end any of those old sayings.

I have been waiting to ride the new Supersport S.

Stupid question, but are there any aftermarket accessories that use electricity hooked up? A new battery draining that quickly is suspect.