Starting a new thread to avoid drifting the other one.

Starting to research what to buy. Want 2nd Gen (current gen?) with awd. 6sp or 10sp - avoid 9sp.

RTL trim seems enough but still looking into trim levels.

Found this: does this sound about right? If yes, then I’m looking for a 10sp awd 2020+ RTL?

First Generation (2006-2014)
2006: Considered the worst year due to significant engine problems, including cylinder failure, and poor build quality.
2007-2008: Better than 2006 but still had issues with AC, transmission, and electrical systems.
2009-2014: These years saw improvements, with 2010 being a solid choice if maintained, though some recalls exist.

Second Generation (2017-Present)
2017-2019: Marked by transmission trouble (slipping, rough shifts) and infotainment/electrical glitches, including leaky tubing causing shorts and unreliable AC compressors.
2020-2024: Generally more reliable, but be aware of recalls for rearview cameras, fuel pumps, and potential issues with tonneau covers and tailgate wiring.

Key Takeaways for Used Buyers
Best Bets: Look for 2010-2014 or 2020+ models, focusing on comprehensive service records.
Models to Skip: Prioritize avoiding 2006, 2017, 2018, and 2019 due to known systemic problems.
Always Inspect: Check for rust, maintenance history, and ensure any recalls (especially airbag/fuel pump related) have been performed.


ETA: copied some key comments from other thread that may influence what to buy. https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...935/m/6720064815/p/6

They went to the 9spd automatic in MY2020, which I've heard [but not experienced] is not great.

They’ve already switched to a 10spd I think now. I know that problematic 9spd was swapped out.

And most importantly, NO ADAS whatsoever. I think for 2020, they added ADAS on every single trim.

And absolutely get the AWD version, F FWD. Honda’s SH-AWD is excellent. Any weather, any condition, stable as a rock, especially in hard cornering.

Yeah, I've read nothing but bad on the 9AT. The 6spd is solid, and the 10spd is supposed to be good too.

What are the common 2022 Ridgeline problems?
Common 2022 Honda Ridgeline problems reported by owners often involve electrical issues with automatic high beams and wireless charging, oversensitive or false-triggering forward collision avoidance systems, premature brake wear, and infotainment system glitches like CarPlay disconnections, alongside general complaints about interior ergonomics and some performance/tech limitations for its segment.

Electrical & Safety Systems
Automatic High Beams: Malfunctions, often blinding oncoming drivers.
Forward Collision Warning: False alarms, sudden braking, or steering wheel shakes when no hazard exists.
Wireless Charger: Inconsistent or non-working charging.
Infotainment: CarPlay/iPhone connection drops requiring restarts.

Mechanical & Performance
Brakes: Premature wear, pulsation, or vibration, possibly linked to thin rotors or brake booster leaks.
Engine: Error messages or sudden power loss reported.
Transmission: Delayed shifts or warning lights (though less common for this year).
Engine Stalling: Issues with the auto start/stop feature failing to restart the vehicle.

Other Reported Issues
Tailgate Sensor: Issues with the sensor rod affecting tailgate operation.
Interior: Complaints about the complex center console layout and button placement.
Key Fob: Weak signal for proximity locking.

Design/Capability Concerns (Not Defects)
Off-Road: Limited capability compared to traditional trucks.
Technology: Outdated engine tech (V6 vs. turbo) and some feature limitations (e.g., no compass).

This message has been edited. Last edited by: konata88,

Maintenance: The J-series V6 is a timing belt interference engine.
Interval is 105k and the water pump should be done at the same time

If higher mileage, check that this was done, or budget for it. When I did my Acura TL, it was something like $700 in parts [timing belt, water pump, drive belts, radiator hoses, spark plugs amd front rotors] & we DIY. Shop price at the time was around $1200 for just the TB & WP.

I have a first gen 2007. Had it for a few years 145k on the clock. Been a good rig.
It is due for some maintenance. No complaints really. Solid rig. Good luck.

I have an RTL-E 2022 Ridgeline and it is awesome! Not a single complaint.

In 2016 I inherited a 2007 Ridgeline with 35K. It is a gentleman's pickup compared with regular pickups. I now have 130K on it. It has been exceptionally reliable with recommended maintenance. I plan on keeping it for as long as it is reliable.

Although it is not a V-8, the V-6 is so much preferable than any Turbo 4 in newer SUV's and trucks. I especially like that the older version is not highly electronic. Compared to my newer Highlander this truck is in the stone age; less to go wrong. If I had one thing to change, I would like 50-75 more horsepower. Having said that, the current HP is adequate but nothing to get excited about.

If considering the purchase of an older Ridgeline, you could do a lot worse as long as it has been well maintained.

Neighbor has a 2024 and loves it. We almost bought one back in 2008, but that generation didn't have the towing capacity we needed.

Fantastic, useful vehicles.

I'm still driving the 2008 RTL that I bought new. Oil changes, a couple batteries 2nd set of tires at 68k miles. I didn't expect to keep it this long but it runs/drives as always and awd is perfect in our typical 6" snow or less. I prefer 1st gen over newer builds. I put a backflip bed cover on mine 1st thing and it's held up well. Handy as a pocket on a shirt.

Have a ‘25 RTL, which replaced my ‘23 RTL that was lost in a flood.
They are fantastic vehicles.
-If you do not tow more than 5000lbs, a Ridgeline will do most all the truck things that need done.
-AWD is seamless, and just flat out goes. Very good in snow.
-The infotainment got upgraded in ‘24 and it’s really good now.
-27-28mpg on the highway.
-Like a big Accord with AWD and a bed.

Gave you my info in the other thread. And your intel in the OP, don’t know about that. 2017’s maybe (I was reading the RL forum a lot back then) into 2018’s. But no issues with the 2019. There was a recall on the wiring harness in the bed pretty quick for me. I can’t remember if I had to take it in for that the first few months or the first year but it was pretty soon into ownership. Was done same day. I have a new recall on the fuel pump propeller but I haven’t had a single issue with mine. Zero. Transmission is butter smooth but I did put in Amsoil ATF at 1000 miles, as well as Amsoil in everything. I don’t run factory fluids. The SOHC V6 has been dead nuts reliable too. VTEC transition hits, and the thing moves. 0-60 mph in 6.5 seconds and ironically the same 0-60 mph time as my 2002 RSX Type S. It’s not fast, but it’s quick. It’s a solid motor. I’ve towed with it plenty. Thing runs smooth AF at 80-90 mph on a road trip. I’d still take the 6spd over the 10spd since it’s more serviceable but it’s not my DD. And I’d definitely get one without ADAS on it, 2019 MY RTL before they added that crap to every trim. Less shit to fix if you plan on keeping it long term and enables you to do whatever you want with the audio system and headunit. ADAS equipped you are stuck running the factory headunit permanently. I can get a new aftermarket Pioneer HU with preamps and all the bells and whistles for $500 and change.

Just go test drive them. If they are on a used stealer lot they don’t have a care in the world letting you test drive them. People evaluate this way too much on the internet. You need to drive the different model years and make up your own mind.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

Starting to research what to buy. Want 2nd Gen (current gen?) with awd. 6sp or 10sp - avoid 9sp.

RTL trim seems enough but still looking into trim levels.....

Why avoid the ZF 9-speed transmission? I might avoid any with Honda's 6-speed which has had more failures. My 2018 had the 6-speed and I never had any issue with it but traded it with 51,000 miles on the 2023 (9-speed) I have now. The 9-speed is a much nicer transmission IMO, reverse and 1st are much lower in fact 2nd is lower than first on the 6-speed's first gear so in normal mode it starts out in 2nd gear. In Sport mode it starts in the low 1st gear which is useful for towing a heavy trailer, a boat up a ramp, going very slow up a rough road, etc. The 9 also incorporates paddle shifting which can be nice on hills.

2017-2019 have the weaker 6-speed and also are under investigation for connecting rod bearing failure so I would avoid those 3 years. 2020 through present have the better 9-speed.

I find the RTL trim to be the sweet spot over the more basic Sport trim. RTL includes leather, heated seats and mirrors, 8-way drivers seat, acoustic glass, sunroof, sliding rear window, and a few other little upgrades.

I copied some comments from the other thread. Sentiments expressed against the 9sp - 6sp / 10sp sound less issue prone. But sounds like 6sp also has issues depending on year (but I'm trending to focus on 2020+ now).

Confusing to have conflicting statements. Not sure what to look for yet and what price to expect by trim level.

2022 RTL-E owner here. No major issues after 36K mikes. (4-years running)

Had a recall on rear-view camera wiring harness - easy fix.

The 9-speed transmission is "OK". Can get a bit confused when the engine is cold - meaning cold weather and still getting warmed up.

Smooth and quiet on the highway. Spacious front cabin with intuitive layout.

The tech is arguably a weak spot - if that is a big deal to you. Not sure what 23-25 models have for improvements in this area.

Good luck.

I'm eyeing a 2022 with what seems like a reasonable price. But also perhaps a little too good to be true (vs KBB) so a little suspicious. Found some common complaints about the 2022 (added to the OP) - mostly concerned about the ADAS stuff (inappropriate braking). I'm okay if ADAS can be disabled - I would anyway.

I have a 2010 RTL with 185K miles on it. So far, no major issues. It's comfortable and fuel (in)efficient, from 15 MPG city to 21 MPG highway. Regular maintenance is key! I DO have some minor rusting, but that's expected in the Northeast (NH). Mine has the 6-cylinder engine which gives me ample "oompf" when required. The AWD is handy, too!

How do you prioritize used car sources? Still searching for a ridgeline and seeing variance in price and seemingly good (suspicious) deals.


For me, Honda dealer would be first. Then another major manufacturer dealer.

Then, perhaps no name dealer then private party.

I think I would avoid private party since I’m not savvy enough to not get cheated. Not sure what to think about these private dealers. Reviews of them are generally not favorable. Many comments about relentless contacts once you give them your info (for a test drive).

Should I just stick with #1,2? Never really bought a used car before.

ETA: I forgot that there are #2a dealers like caravana. Reliable and trustworthy? I’m okay paying a little extra if the quality of the car is as advertised.

"Show me the Carmax!!"

Oh. Good one. Are those reports dependable? How should I treat those?

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
Oh. Good one. Are those reports dependable? How should I treat those?

CARFAX is a good tool but its only as good as whoever entered the information into the system. There's no law that mandates information be loaded into CARFAX so it's strictly voluntary.

Is there a law that requires disclosure of accidents? Can one get VIN based DMV reports? Or is it all just caveat emptor?

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
How do you prioritize used car sources? Still searching for a ridgeline and seeing variance in price and seemingly good (suspicious) deals.


For me, Honda dealer would be first. Then another major manufacturer dealer.

Then, perhaps no name dealer then private party.

I think I would avoid private party since I’m not savvy enough to not get cheated. Not sure what to think about these private dealers. Reviews of them are generally not favorable. Many comments about relentless contacts once you give them your info (for a test drive).

Should I just stick with #1,2? Never really bought a used car before.

ETA: I forgot that there are #2a dealers like caravana. Reliable and trustworthy? I’m okay paying a little extra if the quality of the car is as advertised.

I don’t buy used because I want to break the motor in properly, as well as the transmission, and bedding in the brakes.

Best advice on this since you asked, stick to a CPO. Certified Pre Owned will be Honda stealership only, with the extra checks on everything and they are certified so you get a longer bumper to bumper warranty. It usually means less scratches/dings and the thing is tip top quality for a used vehicle. I’d go that route. The other option is finding a one owner vehicle, private party, that has all service records from new. Someone meticulous, who has the buying paperwork as well as the service records. It’ll cost more but imo, worth it. People pawn off abused vehicles to Carvana all the time. Problematic vehicles, etc. Others will claim + experiences but I’ve test driven stuff there frequently as I test drive a lot of vehicles every year for my own knowledge, and no thanks. Private party with records or CPO, or just buy new.