I've recently been recruited to do volunteer event photography for a local professional group. Venue will be a hotel ballroom so I don't expect lighting to be particularly good. In fact, I expect it to suck hind teat. The event itself will be mostly speeches, and awards (NOT a wedding, NOT in a studio), and I need to do a decent job because the people who asked me might be folks who network me to my next job out of law school (and the people I'm taking pics of are judges, partners, DAs, US Attorneys, etc).

I'd like your suggestions on what attached flash to purchase.

My current setup is:
Canon 5D Mark IV with Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
[I do not have an add-on battery pack, do I need one to run a flash?]

Photos will be of people giving speeches, and group shots.

Most of the work I've done so far has been outdoors/landscape, so I don't have a "general-duty" flash yet [and the 5D Mark IV does not have a "pop up" flash].

At this point, I'm thinking I do not need remote triggering, but I am a complete flash noob, so I also might not know what I need (unconscious incompetence).

Your suggestions are appreciated.

I'm not going to be any help with this but maybe renting from a place like Lensrental.com is a good way to go. Definitely stay with Canon Speedlites.

I have A Canon Speedlite but only used it once for an indoor shoot of a neighbors family, I did OK but not great.

quote:

Originally posted by UTsig:
I have A Canon Speedlite but only used it once for an indoor shoot of a neighbors family, I did OK but not great.

Do you remember the model number? I'm looking at the 430, but honestly, I don't know enough to say whether it will meet my requirements.

I would definitely get a external battery pack, I've shot a few similar events and waiting for the flash to recharge is a PITA.The answer would depend on how high the ceilings are, what color it is, what the ambient light is like.

I'd say something like a speedlite pointed 45* up and back to bounce the light off the ceiling behind you would be your best bet.

quote:

Originally posted by LDD:

quote:

Originally posted by UTsig:
I have A Canon Speedlite but only used it once for an indoor shoot of a neighbors family, I did OK but not great.

Do you remember the model number? I'm looking at the 430, but honestly, I don't know enough to say whether it will meet my requirements.

I have the 580EX II, you might take a look at the newer 600EX II, newer model. I opted for the 580 for no particular reason. I see Canon has a battery pack for the 600EX II, good reviews on Amazon.

I'll second bouncing the flash, that worked well for me.

quote:

Originally posted by cmr076:
The answer would depend on how high the ceilings are, what color it is, what the ambient light is like.

[will post pic when I find a host]

Looks like high 20" ceilings, mostly-yellow incandescent lighting.

By "behind" do you mean point the flash back and up over my own head as I'm taking the shot?

quote:

Originally posted by LDD:

quote:

Originally posted by cmr076:
The answer would depend on how high the ceilings are, what color it is, what the ambient light is like.

[will post pic when I find a host]

Looks like high ceilings, mostly-yellow incandescent lighting.

By "behind" do you mean point the flash back and up over my own head as I'm taking the shot?

that picture isn't working. That's how I would angle the flash, I assume it'll be someone at a podium you're shooting? But you'll be shooting in full manual mode and get your settings dialed in.

http://benefitauctions360.com/...I-Empty-1024x680.jpg

I don't want to hot link, but this is the venue.

quote:

Originally posted by LDD:
http://benefitauctions360.com/...I-Empty-1024x680.jpg

I don't want to hot link, but this is the venue.

that looks terrible haha.

I just asked a buddy whos a professional photog. and he agreed with the 45* backwards, OR (and this is an expensive option) he said you can use L glass primes and shoot "wide open", but that requires $2000 lenses

Definitely invest in a Canon Flash & either the 580EX II or the 600EX II - the 5D MkIV will best make use of those.

Seeing the venue, definitely adjust your white balance and a flash diffuser will help - there are many to choose from.

Check out the Strobist (David Hobby) free Lighting courses (101, 102, 103) & Joe McNally.

Also you should try to experiment before the event (at the venue, if possible) to help you adjust your camera/flash settings.

Here is a comparison of flash diffusers (I didn't use Fong's stuff - went DIY)


Hope some of this helps.

I do not use a Cannon, but the general use of a flash is the same.

The bounce from the ceiling is good advice as long as the ceiling is light enough and close enough to give light to the subject. The Gold Ceiling at your venue will color the light reflected from it.

No, not up and behind the camera, up approx. 45 to the ceiling between the camera and subject to bounce light on the subjects head and face.

In any case the main flash should be some distance away from the camera. say 18" above and to the left or right of the camera. Flash brackets are made for this purpose. It will be a problem getting large groups equally lighted with one flash. A professional would probably set-up two or more large flash units and use a slave to fire them, you will not be expected to have this kind of expensive equipment or assistants to set it up.

If you are using the ambient light a white balance correction is required.

You should have no problem getting access to the location for a few trial shots. Take someone with you and have them stand where the head table goes and shoot away.

quote:

Originally posted by oldRoger:

No, not up and behind the camera, up approx. 45 to the ceiling between the camera and subject to bounce light on the subjects head and face.

No.. unless you want shiny faces and a hard shadow. You want it to bounce from behind you and envelope the subject. 45 deg up, and at them still hits them with direct light. there are nuances, but that's the general rule. LDD, bring a test subject and try it both ways.

quote:

Originally posted by cmr076:

quote:

Originally posted by oldRoger:

No, not up and behind the camera, up approx. 45 to the ceiling between the camera and subject to bounce light on the subjects head and face.

No.. unless you want shiny faces and a hard shadow. You want it to bounce from behind you and envelope the subject. 45 deg up, and at them still hits them with direct light. there are nuances, but that's the general rule. LDD, bring a test subject and try it both ways.

Thanks guys, I think I will be combining your suggestions. I can't afford a high-end flash setup with external battery pack, but I may be able to rent one and I will definitely practice off-site before, and fine tune with a live subject once I get on-site.

And yeah, the lighting in that room is pretty terrible .

Fast glass will not fix bad lighting!

quote:

Originally posted by cmr076:
I just asked a buddy whos a professional photog. and he agreed with the 45* backwards, OR (and this is an expensive option) he said you can use L glass primes and shoot "wide open", but that requires $2000 lenses

Shoot RAW format to maximize chance of correcting poor exposures and color. Extra memory cards for big image files. Diffuser plus bounce. Big flash for big room. Extra sets of aa batteries. Focus point on subjects eyes. Ask people to pose in small groups if you can so everyone is looking same way. Watch high ISO set by camera on automatic and using menu cap that high ISO to something that won't make images grainy.

Well, I am odd man out here as I am a Nikon shooter. But I have used Metz flashes since my middle format days and could not be more pleased with the results. You might want to take a look at what they offer for Canon. My Metz units work seamlessly with the Nikons and are more powerful to boot when needed. Otherwise the next step up would likely be going to Quantum or some of the other pro flash packs but that entails a lot more expense.

Here is where I am coming from:

I shoot with a Canon 5D Mark IV as well. I have lots of really good ($$$) lenses, and like another said, fast glass doesn't fix bad light. Also have to be aware of depth of field issues shooting groups wide open. You want everyone in focus.

Most of my shooting is for Real Estate listings. Doing the RE stuff I use flash frequently, sometimes multiple flash and pretty much always off camera. I did do an "event" in June, the wedding of a co-worker. It was not "formal" wedding photography, more of event/documentary. I shot the ceremony and reception with a single, on camera speedlite. Took over 400 photos and didn't have to change the battery.

That said, here is my input...


Camera - no problem, it doesn't get any better

The 24-105mm f4L lens should handle the job with no problem. The 5D IV does very well with low light, so you can get away with faster ISO and less flash power. The lower the flash power, the faster the recycle time (only an issue if you will be taking many shots in quick succession). If these are just going to be "documentary" shots and not "portraits" I would feel comfortable shooting 800 ISO with flash.

20' ceiling and the light in that room would lead me away from trying to bounce from wall or ceiling.


What distance will you be from subjects? If you have to go with flash on camera, I'd opt for the flash pointing straight up and use a Rogue Flashbender (or clone thereof) to reflect and spread the light back to the subjects.

Will you be in one single spot? If so, best light would probably come from a light on a stand (speedlite or strobe) shooting into an umbrella to reflect back to your subject. NOt practical though if you are going to be moving around unless you have an assistant to be your light Sherpa.


You can get a decent starter light set up for $250 for on camera and go off camera with it for another $125 (or less)



Personally, I think Canon branded flashes are seriously overpriced for an average user. Much cheaper options that do equally as well. I say this having had 580EX II and 430EX II and currently having a 430EX III.

Mind you that the 430 is Canon's lower power flash. The 430EX would have a hard time lighting up a large room. The only reason I have one is because the 3rd party stuff has issues when used on camera with non-DSLR Canons like the the M and G series (which I also have).


Canon 600EX is a $500 flash. The 430EX is north of $250. Staying with Canon gear and getting either of them off-camera is going to cost another $285 for the transmitter or $300 for a second 430EX flash to stay on the camera as a master.



Here is my recommendation:

Flash - Adorama Flashpoint R2 Zoom TTL - $199

https://www.adorama.com/fplfsmzl2ca.html

Less than 1/2 the cost of Canon's 600EX, and less than the 430EX. You get rechargeable li-on battery that has quick recycle times and rated for over 600 full power flashes on a single charge. Less than 1.5 second recycle for full power. Fraction of a second recycle with less than full power.

Works on camera and has built in transmitter/receiver if you decide you want to go off camera at some future point.

Nothing but rave reviews from folks over at Photography on the net forums. They convinced me to sell off my Canon clone/compatible Yongnuo YN600EX-RT units and pick up two of the R2 Zoom units as well as a couple of R2 strobes as well.

Settings can be changed via the flash unit or through your camera menus.


Modifier for on-camera, $9 clone of the $30 Rogue flash bender.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod...01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


To go off camera add:
Basic stand - $35 from Amazon
Bowens bracket - $20 from Amazon
R2 transmitter - $45 Adorama/Amazon
Umbrella - $25 Amazon

$125 or less on top of the flash for a single off camera set up. $325 total.

Not a Canon shooter (for stills...I do use Canon for video).
However, I have done hundreds of events like what you've described over my career. The main question is this: How close will you be able to get to the podium where the awards are going to be given out?
If you can get in the front row, and pop up like a groundhog before every presentation to take the photo(s), then your task will be easier.
If you can position yourself that way...I'd use an on-camera flash with some form of diffuser that kicks about half the light to the front (and lets the remaining light bounce off the ceiling. That ceiling height IS bounce-able. A white index card works incredibly well. You will need to use full power (most likely) to do so. Which means batteries. Lots of juice.

Only use Manual power settings (1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1/1) on the flash. Manual settings on the camera as well. That way, it will be consistent from shot to shot.

Since this is a one-off deal (you won't be doing this week in/week out), go look at Best Buy and their in-house Insignia line of on-camera flash units. Maybe buy two of them (so you can have one with fresh batteries at the ready to switch out between award presentations.If not, have spare AA batteries at the ready to quickly swap out.)
Arrive early, and test the bounce-kick ratio to get a pleasing look. You'll find a certain angle (of the diffuser on the flash) to provide the best look for you, fill in the shadows in the eye sockets, and light the surrounding area.
You can do this.

I'm a big fan of the flash bender:

https://rogueflash.com/collections/rogue-flashbenders