We had a burner go out on our 1962 Frigidaire Flair. Needless to say, any parts available are used, if you can find anything at all. I located a replacement burner, but the connector is different. Regardless, it seems they use push on spades inside the connector, so when it comes right down to it, I could skip the connector.

When getting into the job, I found some sketchy prior work, including overly exposed wires on the spade crimps, and most concerning, a cut and exposed wire right at the metal mounting clip. Sheesh! Some work to be done for sure... Someone had crimped in some romex wire to extend to the last burner. I'm looking to replace that, and to splice in some proper heat rated wire. The antique wiring pictured below.

Any appliance guys out there (Brad?0 that know what type of wire this is? Also need info on those spade crimps (what are they called, what tools do I need)? I'd love to find a good repair guy local, but I'm assuming at this point, they are Samsung (or similar brand) module/board replacement guys, not genuine appliance repair guys.

I love this stove, and honestly, it's not gonna be easy to put something else in that spot, as the kitchen was built around it, some 62 years ago. But I also don't want my wife to be killed by our stove, as if that happened, who would do the laundry?

I heard Brad will work for IPA's and ribreyes. But you'll probably have to buy his plane ticket too.

Cool stove!!! I can see why you want to keep it.

https://www.a-1appliance.com/catalog/appliance_wire

https://www.partselect.com/Ran...s-and-Connectors.htm

Thats asbestos wire. Not that it really matters…
Good stuff, last forever unless damaged or soaked with grease.

I used to repair some built in appliances in my plumbing electrical contracting days and
We kept a small supply of it in a few colors.

That was back 1972-92.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
Thats asbestos wire.

Wish I'd have known that a few hours ago. I had to pull the wire with pliers to get the spade tab off and it puffed with dust. Pretty much in my face. <facepalm>

^^^ Well asbestos isn’t poison, even though it’s been made out to be. Working in a trade/mine for 30 years will get you cancer. Pulling a wire won’t.

Can you use some stranded THHN inside of an insulting loom?

What a nice looking old oven, glad you're maintaining it!

I hope that the last question is wire. I just got through working on my 1956 GE and the correct wire is relatively easy to get. "Braided Silicone High-Temp. Lead Wire UL3252, UL3254 (250°C)" in the correct gauge. My local electrical supply store had it in stock, but its easily available online.
Unless the burner size is really weird you can just use a modern burner and wire in the correct end fittings, that's what I did. The controls are another matter due to size/shape/style.

That oven looks awesome. I love that mid century design. It's awesome that it's been working all this time. I wonder how many appliances that are over 50 years old are still being used.

At least fifteen years ago, I was sitting around the house watching some TV and feeling sorry for myself.
It was just prior to some Holiday, my wife had gone and was visiting family. I had been scheduled for some overtime at work and could not get out of it.

All of a sudden, the TV picture shrunk down to the size of a playing card, and a loud "buzzing" noise occurred, which sounded like a AC stick welding arc.
I jumped off the couch, and all by itself, the TV returned to normal and the noise stopped.

I looked all over the house and outside and didn't see anything, or smell anything out of the ordinary.
Sometime later that evening, it happened again. The TV picture shrunk and the arcing sound, but this time it continued.

It sounded like it was coming from the kitchen. As I rounded the corner from the hallway, I could see arcing/sparking coming from the ventilation slots in the cabinet doors underneath
the countertop built in cooktop unit. I ran down to the basement and flipped the cooktop circuit breaker off.

I got a flashlight and opened the cabinet doors under the cooktop, and the sheet metal "box" which extends below the countertop had a quarter sized hole melted through the steel on the bottom surface.
All of the pots and pans that were stored underneath the cooktop had tiny "balls" of melted copper & steel splattered all over the exposed surfaces.

I guess I'm trying to tell you that the insulation quality on the aged wiring inside your stove unit certainly is important.
In my case, it DID NOT trip the 50 Amp circuit breaker.
A closer inspection revealed a wire that laid on the inside of the sheet metal box suffered an insulation failure.
The old cooktop was replaced with a new ceramic top cooktop unit.
I'm guessing the cooktop that failed was original to the house, 1970's.

I suppose it was some type of divine intervention. If nobody had been home/or awake, I'm convinced the house would have burned to the ground.

Since it flexes and needs high temp resistance, here is a wiring product called Chem-Gard 200 that withstands up to 200* C max temp, which is 392 degrees Fahrenheit. Combine with some high heat connectors (try Mouser or Digi-Key), I would call that a job done well and not wonder about it later.

If you have wanted a more modern setup, it's probably gonna be a lot more involved trying to fit a single or double oven and a cook top in that space. You could do a custom cabineted double oven there, but a cooktop will likely need to take other counterspace.

It sounds like you really like the appliance, so I would fix it right and keep it. Cooking appliances made today tend not to last for 50 years. That one is beautifully kept and definitely worth fixing it up.

quote:

1962 Frigidaire Flair.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/484104173691582/

FB group dedicated to that, and saw a few posts of people who still sell parts for it...

quote:

Originally posted by HRK:

quote:

1962 Frigidaire Flair.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/484104173691582/

FB group dedicated to that, and saw a few posts of people who still sell parts for it...

Good find! Thanks!